I stand corrected I guess I missed that picture. The trifecta pic would be nice
Homelite 7-29 rehab
- Thread starter cbfarmall
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I stand corrected I guess I missed that picture. The trifecta pic would be nice
Sure, when I get the 7-29 back together. Bit of luck, Joyce is sending me a new rotary valve wear plate and, I think, an owner's manual for the 7-29.
Chris B.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
It would have been, if you were used to handtools or traded up from a 3-25 McCulloch.
stinkbait
Addicted to ArboristSite
Not to steal the thread, but what is the difference between the 7-29 and the 8-29?
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Comparing the IPLs, about the only differences that jump out are some of the starter components (and the decal
). Both use ball drives, but have a few different numbers on certain parts. Piston and cylinder, carbs, and most things that would make a difference in power, look identical.
Dan
). Both use ball drives, but have a few different numbers on certain parts. Piston and cylinder, carbs, and most things that would make a difference in power, look identical.Dan
A fellow who was recently selling a HUGE collection, the same that had a 7-29 and 3100g I passed on (kicking self in head now), told me there was no difference in the parts that mattered. Oh, and paint.
I finally got the rest of my parts today--wear plate, retaining ring, another couple bearings, and a couple gaskets. Also, Joyce sent along an original operator's manual for the 7-29! I can tell people now that I bought the saw new and they might believe me.
With the new wear plate in hand, I tackled the rotary valve face that turns against the wear plate. Here's the before picture:
If I wasn't able to find a NOS wear plate, I would have left the governor face alone and lived with it. Since I got lucky with parts, I took some emery cloth, a piece of glass and an hour of my life and got this result:
I didn't dare go any further because I didn't want to wear thru to the valve anchor pin.
Tomorrow, I will likely assemble the rest of the saw, or at least the engine.
For those interested, chainsawr.com has a 114 page repair manual by Homelite that covers this saw, and all others that were sold in and around 1957. I gave $5 for the download but it is has already paid for itself. Fascinating reading.
Chris B.
With the new wear plate in hand, I tackled the rotary valve face that turns against the wear plate. Here's the before picture:
If I wasn't able to find a NOS wear plate, I would have left the governor face alone and lived with it. Since I got lucky with parts, I took some emery cloth, a piece of glass and an hour of my life and got this result:
I didn't dare go any further because I didn't want to wear thru to the valve anchor pin.
Tomorrow, I will likely assemble the rest of the saw, or at least the engine.
For those interested, chainsawr.com has a 114 page repair manual by Homelite that covers this saw, and all others that were sold in and around 1957. I gave $5 for the download but it is has already paid for itself. Fascinating reading.
Chris B.
That wear plate cleaned up nicely, good work. The rotary valve was actually a great idea, it's still used in many modern high speed R/C engines. Some of them even do the valving through the body of the crankshaft itself.
Look at it this way. A piston-ported engine with equivalent wear on the intake side, would require a piston replacement, maybe cylinder. A reed valver would maybe need new reeds and a seat. This engine needed a wear plate that cost maybe a $1 and an easy resurfacing of the governor face.
This is the most fun I've ever had rebuilding a motor. Probably because it's so unusual.
Anyway, thanks JJ. I'm glad my time paid off.
Chris B.
This is the most fun I've ever had rebuilding a motor. Probably because it's so unusual.
Anyway, thanks JJ. I'm glad my time paid off.
Chris B.
Great job Chris. That plate cleaned really nice.
Will be great saw when finished.
Lee
Will be great saw when finished.
Lee
He told me he sold them. He still has his ad up on Acres website.
Here's the next installment. I'm mostly done at this point, waiting on carby parts.
A shot of all the engine parts laid out, with the exception of the cylinder. BTW, that crankshaft is over 11" long!
Here's the crankcase assembled and you see the rotary valve/governor and wear plate. Like I said before, lots of volume in this bottom end.
After about 2 hours more work, I got the saw together. I found a better ball drive starter in my parts boxes, cleaned the balls and pockets, and swapped it out. Recoil doesn't slip now. Fact I didn't know, all the Homelite ball drive starters have a built-in slipper clutch that let the ratchet slip in case the saw surprises you with a McCulloch-style kickback. A little screw on the drive adjusts the torque of the slipper.
First cold compression check yielded 165 psi. Unfortunately, I didn't measure it before diassembly.
I have a few odds and ends screws to pick up and I want to repack the oiler button. But, overall, it went together pretty well. The engines turns over strong and seems very tight with no rattles. And it looks better without that black tape, to me anyways.
Chris B.
A shot of all the engine parts laid out, with the exception of the cylinder. BTW, that crankshaft is over 11" long!
Here's the crankcase assembled and you see the rotary valve/governor and wear plate. Like I said before, lots of volume in this bottom end.
After about 2 hours more work, I got the saw together. I found a better ball drive starter in my parts boxes, cleaned the balls and pockets, and swapped it out. Recoil doesn't slip now. Fact I didn't know, all the Homelite ball drive starters have a built-in slipper clutch that let the ratchet slip in case the saw surprises you with a McCulloch-style kickback. A little screw on the drive adjusts the torque of the slipper.
First cold compression check yielded 165 psi. Unfortunately, I didn't measure it before diassembly.
I have a few odds and ends screws to pick up and I want to repack the oiler button. But, overall, it went together pretty well. The engines turns over strong and seems very tight with no rattles. And it looks better without that black tape, to me anyways.
Chris B.
Looks awsome,
Can't wait to hear it run.
You did a fine job.
Lee
Can't wait to hear it run.
You did a fine job.
Lee
It is a saw that looks all-business.
I've already had to do a bit of re-disassembly. Had no spark. I had cleaned and gapped the points, but no go. Tear it back down and found that the high-tension lead, which I though was servicable was, in fact, junk. Just so happened to have a NOS lead and installed that. Saw fired right off with a bit of fuel in the plug opening. Kind of hard to keep it running without a carby, though. Found a more accurate recoil grip, too.
Oh well. Time for Sugar Creek to make some gaskets and diaphragms. I know Joe is hard at work on them.
Chris B.
I've already had to do a bit of re-disassembly. Had no spark. I had cleaned and gapped the points, but no go. Tear it back down and found that the high-tension lead, which I though was servicable was, in fact, junk. Just so happened to have a NOS lead and installed that. Saw fired right off with a bit of fuel in the plug opening. Kind of hard to keep it running without a carby, though. Found a more accurate recoil grip, too.
Oh well. Time for Sugar Creek to make some gaskets and diaphragms. I know Joe is hard at work on them.
Chris B.
Nice work Chris. You have one hell of a saw in the 7-29, and can't wait to hear it running.
Regards,
Chris.
Regards,
Chris.
Thanks Chris. I can't to hear it run. Should cut every bit as good as it feels. Here's a shot of the clutch side.
Chris B.
Chris B.
Similar threads
