Homelite Chainsaws

[leeha]

Wendell, Try useing a CJ8 plug as they
have a 3/4 hex and fit so you can get a
socket on them. Acres site calls for a
Champion HO-3 plug but i have never seen
one of those.




Lee

 

[jerrycmorrow]

...Looks like I need to pull out some more of my 9th grade shop class knowledge and see what I remember about points.

funny you should say that. i've recently been puzzling over my points setup on an old oly 252. back in the before-electronicignition days i used to be fairly knowledgeable but the ole use-it-or-loose-it law has claimed its portion. now i'm just confused. be nice if someone had a decent narrative and schematic for one. bound to be a few experts on here. eh?

 

[wendell]

Wendell, Try useing a CJ8 plug as they
have a 3/4 hex and fit so you can get a
socket on them. Acres site calls for a
Champion HO-3 plug but i have never seen
one of those.

Lee

Well, if I can get it off I'm pretty sure an HO-3 is what is on there so I'll take a picture of it for you.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Wendell, I can't find the 13/16th scrench I "knew" I had, let alone a spare. I'm sure they'll turn up as soon as you find one though.:bang:

 

[a. palmer jr.]

funny you should say that. i've recently been puzzling over my points setup on an old oly 252. back in the before-electronicignition days i used to be fairly knowledgeable but the ole use-it-or-loose-it law has claimed its portion. now i'm just confused. be nice if someone had a decent narrative and schematic for one. bound to be a few experts on here. eh?

There are but all you need to know about points is the gap at high lobe and continuity. Just make sure the points make good connection with each other and not to anything else when you're checking them. Most set at .015, air gap on coil around .010. Generally I just take some fine automotive sandpaper and run across them then clean them off so they'll make good contact. The coil can be checked for continuity from ground to the end of wire going to points with it disconnected and the secondary side from ground to end of sparkplug wire with it unhooked. The condenser can best be checked by replacing with a known good one.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

There are but all you need to know about points is the gap at high lobe and continuity. Just make sure the points make good connection with each other and not to anything else when you're checking them. Most set at .015, air gap on coil around .010. Generally I just take some fine automotive sandpaper and run across them then clean them off so they'll make good contact. The coil can be checked for continuity from ground to the end of wire going to points with it disconnected and the secondary side from ground to end of sparkplug wire with it unhooked. The condenser can best be checked by replacing with a known good one.

mine has what is called an alimentation coil and the coil is mounted away from the flywheel in the cylinder cover. only thing i can set is the points and the timing. still kinda weird though. got a reference to a narrative for dummies? i'd really like to understand this system better. thanks, jerry

 

[8433jeff]

I believe they still check out the same way Jerry, just a PIA to check them because of the flywheel. Many an early Tecumseh, well earlier, is the same way. I do believe points can still be had, and that the condenser is integral to the set.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

I believe they still check out the same way Jerry, just a PIA to check them because of the flywheel. Many an early Tecumseh, well earlier, is the same way. I do believe points can still be had, and that the condenser is integral to the set.

thing i noticed when setting the timing was the difference in resistance over the points when open vs. closed was not much. haven't fired it up yet but get good spark when pulling through. used both a light and an ohmeter to set timing. got the ignition off a parts saw i bought a while back. the alimentation coil on the original ignition had burned a wire so just replaced the whole assembly. like i said, weird. just realized this is the homie thread. sorry for the thread drift.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

thing i noticed when setting the timing was the difference in resistance over the points when open vs. closed was not much. haven't fired it up yet but get good spark when pulling through. used both a light and an ohmeter to set timing. got the ignition off a parts saw i bought a while back. the alimentation coil on the original ignition had burned a wire so just replaced the whole assembly. like i said, weird. just realized this is the homie thread. sorry for the thread drift.

Yeah, they all work on the same basic principle. You have to disconnect the wire to the points when checking resistance or you'll be checking the entire circuit instead of just the points, it should show nearly ground all the time checking as you did. Generally, when the coil is on the inside of the flywheel so is the points, aka motorcycle engine. They usually have a slot in the flywheel so you can service the points.
It's a lot easier to set the timing with the points wire disconnected also.

 

[ptjeep]

Good news and bad news. The super 1130G showed up today as promised with the 48" .404 cannon roller nose and new oregon square filed chisel chain. Filled it up with fluids and went to make some cuts. Thats were the bad comes in, it started and ran great at first but then the wot rpm's would fluctuate and the chain was easy to stall in the cut with little pressure but the rpm's would drop that much. Now it wants to die as soon as i blip the throttle. Gonna try to find a carb kit tomorrow. Cleaned and flipped two of the reeds but they appeared fine. Dont know if these carbs have accelerator pumps or not but kinda acts like one thats bad. What about the clutch, just worn shoes or is there a common problem with these clutchs? As with most used saw purchases, the owner said the saw started and ran great, should have known and was hoping not to have to track down parts for it. Wife just got back from Best Buy with a new camera so when i figure it out i will post some pics.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Good news and bad news. The super 1130G showed up today as promised with the 48" .404 cannon roller nose and new oregon square filed chisel chain. Filled it up with fluids and went to make some cuts. Thats were the bad comes in, it started and ran great at first but then the wot rpm's would fluctuate and the chain was easy to stall in the cut with little pressure but the rpm's would drop that much. Now it wants to die as soon as i blip the throttle. Gonna try to find a carb kit tomorrow. Cleaned and flipped two of the reeds but they appeared fine. Dont know if these carbs have accelerator pumps or not but kinda acts like one thats bad. What about the clutch, just worn shoes or is there a common problem with these clutchs? As with most used saw purchases, the owner said the saw started and ran great, should have known and was hoping not to have to track down parts for it. Wife just got back from Best Buy with a new camera so when i figure it out i will post some pics.

According a Acres site they use a Tillotson HL carb. They're a pretty straightforward carb, rebuilt one this summer. You could try adjusting it a little, I think mine adjusted at about one turn each or less. Carb kits are easy to find.

 

[ptjeep]

Not sure what carb it has, doesnt have a brand name other than homelite stamped on it and its only got a L adjustment. Hope to pick up a kit tomorrow.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Not sure what carb it has, doesnt have a brand name other than homelite stamped on it and its only got a L adjustment. Hope to pick up a kit tomorrow.

I've not seen one of the big saws with only one adjustment screw. I have seen some of the smaller ones like the Super 2 that only had one to adjust both high and low. The Tillotson HL carbs have 2 screws as far as I know. I have 3 saws with the Tillotson HL, two Homelites and at least one Mac and they all have 2 screws.

 

[Eccentric]

Not sure what carb it has, doesnt have a brand name other than homelite stamped on it and its only got a L adjustment. Hope to pick up a kit tomorrow.

Sounds like you have a LATE 1130G. Some of the last 1130G's and 1050's had Walbro SDC's. The SDC's had "Homelite" on the pump cover, and some had only L-side adjustment. The Tillotson will have H and L side needles adjustable from outside the carb box. The Walbro SDC (when on the 1130G and 1050) will only be adjustable with the A/F removed. There will be plugs on the left side of the carb box (where Tilly HL needles would've passed through). The SDC is also a 'cube' shaped carb, while a Tilly HL has the metering and pump sections on the bottom of the carb. As a side note......some HL's on these saws DID have accelerator pumps. The SDC takes a K10-SDC kit.

 

[ChainsawmanXX]

Hey ya'll got my 101 running, new gas line and a new coil (thanks Carl )
She revs up and everything but wont idle. So what are you guys thinking a carb cleaning or just a tune up?

 

[8433jeff]

Sounds like you have a LATE 1130G. Some of the last 1130G's and 1050's had Walbro SDC's. The SDC's had "Homelite" on the pump cover, and some had only L-side adjustment. The Tillotson will have H and L side needles adjustable from outside the carb box. The Walbro SDC (when on the 1130G and 1050) will only be adjustable with the A/F removed. There will be plugs on the left side of the carb box (where Tilly HL needles would've passed through). The SDC is also a 'cube' shaped carb, ehile a Tilly HL has the metering and pump sections on the bottom of the carb. As a side note......some HL's on these saws DID have accelerator pumps. The SDC takes a K10-SDC kit.

I wonder where a guy could find those, Aaron.:msp_tongue::msp_tongue::msp_tongue:

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I wonder where a guy could find those, Aaron.:msp_tongue::msp_tongue::msp_tongue:

Stens probably has a kit for it. Any big small engine shop would have Stens parts..they might have to order that particular one.

 

[8433jeff]

Stens probably has a kit for it. Any big small engine shop would have Stens parts..they might have to order that particular one.

Inside joke. I just sent him some. I have to order a few more, need any?

 

[jerrycmorrow]

I've not seen one of the big saws with only one adjustment screw. I have seen some of the smaller ones like the Super 2 that only had one to adjust both high and low. The Tillotson HL carbs have 2 screws as far as I know. I have 3 saws with the Tillotson HL, two Homelites and at least one Mac and they all have 2 screws.

my craftsman/roper 3.7 only has the L adjustment also

 

[a. palmer jr.]

my craftsman/roper 3.7 only has the L adjustment also

I think I'd prefer to have both H and L adjustments on mine. I'm not crazy about my little Super 2 only having one screw but it does control both high and low, but not very well. If you get it to run well on the top end it doesn't seem to have much on the low end and doesn't idle the best and vice versa.