Homelite Chainsaws

[a. palmer jr.]

I see the Beam, is that a Tampa in the ash tray?

 

[67L36Driver]

Man that's a strong runner JP. Now I need a saw from that series......dammit. I've passed up more than a few of those, but I can see I'll need to put one in the stable...:msp_thumbup:

Aaron.

Stay away from the very early glued together fuel/oil tank models with the three screw magneto backplate. Tanks will leak eventually and the screws loosen on the backplate.

I've been trying to corner the market on the XL-100 series. I have one outstanding runner and three projects in various stages.

I did find a way to ruin the Walbro SDC's used on them. Wrecked three of them when I drilled out the main channel welch plug. Drilled all the way into the rubber flappy check valve. Yikes!

 

[RandyMac]

I see the Beam, is that a Tampa in the ash tray?

Yes, that is a 'Tampa sitting in that starter cover.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Yes, that is a 'Tampa sitting in that starter cover.

Yeah, I was just having a little fun with one of your earlier posts about the hippies...

Oh, nice old Mac, by the way. I have one or two about like it but carb's not a shiny as yours.

 

[Arrowhead]

I didn't have any luck in the swap meet thread, so I'll check here.

I need a good air filter cover and a good piston for a Super XL auto.

Please PM me if you have any. Thanks.

 

[jackx]

Does anyone have videos on how to put a started togather, 1970s Super xl automatic, I dunno how to install the recoil spring,

Or have videos how to take the saw fully apart motor n all..

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I didn't have any luck in the swap meet thread, so I'll check here.

I need a good air filter cover and a good piston for a Super XL auto.

Please PM me if you have any. Thanks.

They usually have a few parts saws on the 'bay if you can't find any here.

 

[67L36Driver]

Early C5 type recoil troubles.

On my C5 and another orphan I just got today I am having trouble getting the starter dogs to catch in the flywheel 'cup'.

I see how the two leather(? not certain of the material) washers w/coil spring preload and hold the cross bar and make the dogs slide out to engage the cup. Granted, the ends of the dogs need to be sharp so they dig into the cup.

What it seems to need is a little more friction on the cross bar by:
Adding more preload by shimming the spring with a washer?
Soaking the leather washers in something like thin oil, WD-40 or even water?

I can likely bend the dogs out a tad so they are closer to the cup but am afraid I'd get them too close.

Carl.

 

[sawbones]

should I mount my extra 750 motor on it? :msp_w00t:

 

[Eccentric]

On my C5 and another orphan I just got today I am having trouble getting the starter dogs to catch in the flywheel 'cup'.

I see how the two leather(? not certain of the material) washers w/coil spring preload and hold the cross bar and make the dogs slide out to engage the cup. Granted, the ends of the dogs need to be sharp so they dig into the cup.

What it seems to need is a little more friction on the cross bar by:
Adding more preload by shimming the spring with a washer?
Soaking the leather washers in something like thin oil, WD-40 or even water?

I can likely bend the dogs out a tad so they are closer to the cup but am afraid I'd get them too close.

Carl.

A few things Carl.

1)The friction washers should be attached to the pawl crossbar. They have been bonded to the crossbar on all the Homelite FM starters that I've tinkered with.

2)DO NOT bend the pawl teeth out if at all possible. They are brittle and brreak easily.

3)Don't put oil or anything else on the fiber washers.

4)The starter cup needs to be replaced if the 'grip section' is so badly hogged out that you need to bend the pawl teeth to reach. They get chewed up by ham-fisted people that just jerk the damn rope out.

5)There should be the pawl assembly (with two friction washers bonded onto it), two thin steel washers with a double "D" hole in the center that matches the axle shaft in the starter (one goes on each side of the pawl/friction washer assembly), the coil spring, a thick steel washer, and the 'E' clip that retains them. Without those two steel 'D' washers, the system won't work for ####. They're often missing...

6)The 'technique' used with a Fairbanks Morse type starter system is a bit different than 'normal' starters. With 'normal' starters, you slowly/gently pull until the dogs/pawls engage, then pull like hell. With the FM, you want to do a short, quick jerk of the wrist to seat the dogs..............then you pull like hell. Don't pull slowly to begin with (as the dogs don't extend well and get a good bite), and don't just do a hard jerk right from the beginning (as that batters the pawl teeth and the starter cup). You need to get a feel for it.

7)Many saws (besides Homelites) used FM starters with the same pawls, friction washers, and steel double "D" washers............so you have a broad base to search through when looking for parts. Even some old Stihls used these starters, so parts can be found at long-standing Stihl dealers.

 

[Eccentric]

should I mount my extra 750 motor on it? :msp_w00t:

No Ric!:eek2:

Send me that 'extra' 750 and I'll send you an old Homelite red 3hp Briggs to put in there.:jester:

With the gear reduction on those things, they have a top speed of about 15mph.

 

[67L36Driver]

Thank you Aaron!

Now I understand why this one don't work so good:

From Aaron's list above:

1) These fiber washers can't be glued to the crossbar as they have the two flats (double D).:msp_unsure:
2) OK, no bending.
3) No oil. I've been putting it together dry from the get go. (except for the spindle of course.)
4) Starter cup looks OK. Hell it's hardly been used looks like judging from the rest of the saw.
5) Ah-Ha! Missing the two thin washers!!! We lose some preload from the spring also.
6) Trying to get the hang of it.
7) F-M starters and clutchs on most chainsaws, lawnmovers etc.

Actually the starter on my C5 works so-so. The one I got today is the Skilsaw 1645/PM 340 off evilbay which has the same setup. It blows 150 psi and has fat spark. New fuel line, cleaned carb and ready to start if I can get the :censored: starter to work consistantly.

Going to take another run at the C5 also.

Carl

 

[Eccentric]

Now I understand why this one don't work so good:

From Aaron's list above:

1) These fiber washers can't be glued to the crossbar as they have the two flats (double D).:msp_unsure:
2) OK, no bending.
3) No oil. I've been putting it together dry from the get go. (except for the spindle of course.)
4) Starter cup looks OK. Hell it's hardly been used looks like judging from the rest of the saw.
5) Ah-Ha! Missing the two thin washers!!! We lose some preload from the spring also.
6) Trying to get the hang of it.
7) F-M starters and clutchs on most chainsaws, lawnmovers etc.

Actually the starter on my C5 works so-so. The one I got today is the Skilsaw 1645/PM 340 off evilbay which has the same setup. It blows 150 psi and has fat spark. New fuel line, cleaned carb and ready to start if I can get the :censored: starter to work consistantly.

Going to take another run at the C5 also.

Carl

Yep. The thin steel washers do add a scosh of spring preload, but not much. They're less than .020" thick each. They are keyed to the starter pully spindle/axle (that is part of the starter housing). These washers don't rotate. The pully rotates the pawl assembly (with the friction washers). The frictions drag against the stationary steel washers. This is what makes the pawl assembly toggle, forcing the teeth against the starter cup.

If you tried to replace those 'd' washers with regular washers in an attempt to preload the spring, you'd have poor results. The 'd' center hole that keeps those washers from rotating is what makes the whole thing work. I've seen those steel friction washers on feebay. Usually something like $5 plus shipping for two tiny washers....


Now......if you have fiber washers that have a 'd' center section, then things opperate a little differently. The fiber washers would stay stationary, while the pawl crossbar is rotated. You could have regular washers on either side of the fiber frictions and it'd still all work, as the washers would only be providing spring preload. The 'friction grip' that is needed for an FM starter to work would be between the stationary fiber washers and the crossbar piece itself, rather than between two stationary STEEL washers against the fiber washers that are bonded to the pawl crossbar. This would explain why I've seen pawl sets with a large round hole and no fiber washers present on feebay...........in addition to the pawl setups (that I'm familiar with from my own saws) which have the fiber washers (with a smaller round hole) bonded to them.


An interesting asside....

My little Wards Power Kraft 2.8 labled Remington SL-9 has a miniature FM starter setup. Looks like you took the parts from a C5 (cup, pawls, pully, washers, etc) and shrunk 'em in the wash...

 

[67L36Driver]

Thanks again Aaron. I'll give it a try after mass tomorrow. It's past my bedtime now.

Carl.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Now I understand why this one don't work so good:

From Aaron's list above:

1) These fiber washers can't be glued to the crossbar as they have the two flats (double D).:msp_unsure:
2) OK, no bending.
3) No oil. I've been putting it together dry from the get go. (except for the spindle of course.)
4) Starter cup looks OK. Hell it's hardly been used looks like judging from the rest of the saw.
5) Ah-Ha! Missing the two thin washers!!! We lose some preload from the spring also.
6) Trying to get the hang of it.
7) F-M starters and clutchs on most chainsaws, lawnmovers etc.

Actually the starter on my C5 works so-so. The one I got today is the Skilsaw 1645/PM 340 off evilbay which has the same setup. It blows 150 psi and has fat spark. New fuel line, cleaned carb and ready to start if I can get the :censored: starter to work consistantly.

Going to take another run at the C5 also.

Carl

I think we already discussed this about the C5...you always have the option of changing the whole apparatus over to the later version starter if you get tired of messing with the FM design. A little paint and it looks almost like stock to the uninformed.

 

[67L36Driver]

I think we already discussed this about the C5...you always have the option of changing the whole apparatus over to the later version starter if you get tired of messing with the FM design. A little paint and it looks almost like stock to the uninformed.[/QUOTE]

I'd love to but finding something different for a [U]Skilsaw 1645/P.M. 340[/U] is not an option.

Yellow saw attack!!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]202048[/ATTACH]
[IMG]http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202048&d=1318168349

Not all yellow and black saws are Macs.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I'd love to but finding something different for a Skilsaw 1645/P.M. 340 is not an option.

Yellow saw attack!!

Not all yellow and black saws are Macs.

I've had several opportunities to buy Skil saws at the local flea market but didn't want to branch into another brand. I have about all I can handle with just 3 or 4 kinds. I never really gave them a close look to see what model they were. The wife's planning to go with me to the next one so I probably won't be buying much...

 

[sawbones]

No Ric!:eek2:

Send me that 'extra' 750 and I'll send you an old Homelite red 3hp Briggs to put in there.:jester:

With the gear reduction on those things, they have a top speed of about 15mph.

going to need more power than that .

 

[Parotech]

XL923 VI944 cylinder

Can someone tell me if a VI944 cylinder would fit on a XL923?
Exhaust ports are the same, but for some reason i'm not so sure ...

 

[8433jeff]

going to need more power than that .

Three horse was all there was on them. Course that was three horses, not smallish chinese goats or Mexican donkeys, or the shetlands that seem to come from B & S (or the rest) nowadays.