Homelite Chainsaws

[8433jeff]

Zogger, pull the handle. Its easier IIRC as the oil pump comes with it. You'll want to replace the impulse line for the oiler as well. The linkage is not that hard to figure out or hook up. Its easier than an 011, but I don't think its as good a saw.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Howdy guys! Been going through all my poulans, got a nice bevy of them running or close now, so this afternoon I started on the homies for a change of pace. The super ez auto I want to wait on, because that one will be a real good tear down and full stomp chomp and romp.The next one I have on the bench now is a rather cherry looking at least 240. Cleaned the crud from the tank, added some new, little cap dribble down the spout, she pops and runs fine then graduallllly winds down. So I know carb cleaning is in order and lines.

Two questions, what size fuel lines do these saws take, they larger than anything I have, and 2-what the heck is the trick to wiggling the carb out? Do I have to take the handle assembly off or what? The clutch dealie just pops out, The linkage for the carb throttle got me hung up.

Besides that seems an OK saw, especially if you keep the oil and mix caps in the correct place and don't space on that.

Well, 3 questions..known common gotchas? I really looked around and couldn't find an IPL, my google fu failed me today so I have to wing it. Until I get it out I *think* it has a walbro in it.

thanks in advance 0 american iron gurus!

I just did a carb clean and new fuel lines. No big deal on that saw, just unbolt the carb and lift out if I remember correctly, no need to take the handle off, just the hand guard (1 screw). You may have to unbolt the chain oiler and set it aside, don't take the hoses off or you may not get them back in the right place. Took me a couple of hours and that included the time it took me to drive downtown and get the kit. It's a standard Walbro carb.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Zogger, pull the handle. Its easier IIRC as the oil pump comes with it. You'll want to replace the impulse line for the oiler as well. The linkage is not that hard to figure out or hook up. Its easier than an 011, but I don't think its as good a saw.

I have an 011 and a 240 and I can see room for improvement in both. Neither saw is as good as a Poulan XXV in my opinion.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

...has anyone replaced the in-tank oil line. looks like it connects to a nipple inside the tank. tank is pretty cramped so was wondering how some of the others of you have handled that task.
thanks, jerry

bump

 

[a. palmer jr.]

bump

Does your saw have two lines in the tank or one? If it has one it should have a little oil pickup filter on the end. This is smaller than the pickup on the fuel line and made of metal. It may also have a duckbill valve on the end of the line going from the crankcase to the tank if your saw is configured that way. I don't really think the 240s are like that, however.

 

[67L36Driver]

was cleaning up the pieces on my 330 last night, getting ready to reassemble when all the parts are in-hand. noticed the fuel tank check valve was missing; anyone got access to one?
also, has anyone replaced the in-tank oil line. looks like it connects to a nipple inside the tank. tank is pretty cramped so was wondering how some of the others of you have handled that task.
thanks, jerry

Do a search for "Fuel line trick" I posted some months ago.

Tried to copy/paste the link but not working now.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Does your saw have two lines in the tank or one? If it has one it should have a little oil pickup filter on the end. This is smaller than the pickup on the fuel line and made of metal. It may also have a duckbill valve on the end of the line going from the crankcase to the tank if your saw is configured that way. I don't really think the 240s are like that, however.

it has one line with the small oil pickup/filter. pondering whether i should replace the line. the extension of the oil line outside the tank fits on to a nipple. assuming its a two-way nipple for connection of the line on the inside. anyone replaced this line? got a good procedure? awful cramped space inside the oil tank.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

it has one line with the small oil pickup/filter. pondering whether i should replace the line. the extension of the oil line outside the tank fits on to a nipple. assuming its a two-way nipple for connection of the line on the inside. anyone replaced this line? got a good procedure? awful cramped space inside the oil tank.

The lines Homelite used are better than the yellow stuff for oil lines, I don't replace them unless they're leaking or collapsed. Better check that nipple just in case it may be a one-way connector of some kind. The pressure from the crankcase shouldn't escape the tank once it's in there except to push the oil out.

The 240 saws have a duckbill valve on the side of the tank toward the top on both the gas and oil tanks. I don't quite understand how the one works on the oil tank. They do seem to last better than the ones inside the tank.

 

[zogger]

Thanks for the help with my 240 so far guys. Looks like I will just completely remove the engine to work on it and clean it. Got the carb (zama, cleaned it, all looks good in there, bent the metering lever up to flush) out but needed to pull the line and try to get a new filter on it and it broke, just crumbled in there, the filter, and couldn't get a grip on the line with anything it was so short. So I yanked it all out from the carb side, now can't even fish a wire back through the hole! hahahaha! boy do I feel like a dumazz now. Guess I am losing my sense of touch or something but can't even get it started, or I think I get it started then it hits a wall or something, won't go through. . Too gunky down there anyway. Got a paper towel stuffed down the intake for now.

It's ....I'll be diplomatic..a little more "interesting" than working on the poulans I have been working on lately.

And so far, as far as it is tore down, still not seeing any duckbills, but who knows. I'll hit it again some more this weekend.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Thanks for the help with my 240 so far guys. Looks like I will just completely remove the engine to work on it and clean it. Got the carb (zama, cleaned it, all looks good in there, bent the metering lever up to flush) out but needed to pull the line and try to get a new filter on it and it broke, just crumbled in there, the filter, and couldn't get a grip on the line with anything it was so short. So I yanked it all out from the carb side, now can't even fish a wire back through the hole! hahahaha! boy do I feel like a dumazz now. Guess I am losing my sense of touch or something but can't even get it started, or I think I get it started then it hits a wall or something, won't go through. . Too gunky down there anyway. Got a paper towel stuffed down the intake for now.

It's ....I'll be diplomatic..a little more "interesting" than working on the poulans I have been working on lately.

And so far, as far as it is tore down, still not seeing any duckbills, but who knows. I'll hit it again some more this weekend.

The two duckbills should be sticking into the side of the tank. Take the starter assembly off and you'll see them. You can also pull the tanks right out. Then it's easy to put the line in them. I figured it'd be hard to get them out but it's not. No need to remove the engine!

 

[zogger]

The two duckbills should be sticking into the side of the tank. Take the starter assembly off and you'll see them. You can also pull the tanks right out. Then it's easy to put the line in them. I figured it'd be hard to get them out but it's not. No need to remove the engine!

Ya, saw that already, starter should come off to pull the oil/fuel tank out. Got to lock it with the rope trick,(I don't have a low powered electric impact tool, do it by hand) so might as well take off the clutch and...95% of the way to total engine removal then looks like.

I'll check it out again tomorrow. Either way it will make it easier to clean the thing. I have a stack of homies to go through, luckily I only had two little macs to do, both of those are done. One runs real good, the other, runs so so. I don't think I have the correct carb needle in it.

Would you know offhand what the real fuel line size is? And I notice it is rubber, is that better than tygon or the clear stuff?

Thanks for all your help! I figure with all the rep the super ezs have, I'd work on the lesser ones first, to get the hang of them.

I think..hmm..for homies..not sure I have now kicking around four of the modern looking generic box store homies, a little xl top handle (was my one saw plan for some years), and some other more modern one that has a removable head if I am remembering correctly (in a crate under the bench now) That one needs the spark plug hole timeserted. It ran good, just kept literally blowing spark plugs out. Tried a helicoil, epoxy, all sorts of stuff, didn't know about timeserts back then. Or another head.

Hmm, got 2 of the 240s and a coupla/few others I fergit now. Nothing big or old or exotic, just plain jane old working saws (at one time)

This is all just practice for me, making myself work on anything that comes my way, just to familiarize myself with them. I'd like a nice variety of good runners for myself (covered now from 70cc on down, still want around a 90 or so), but I am taking this as more hands on schooling for the future.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Ya, saw that already, starter should come off to pull the oil/fuel tank out. Got to lock it with the rope trick,(I don't have a low powered electric impact tool, do it by hand) so might as well take off the clutch and...95% of the way to total engine removal then looks like.

I'll check it out again tomorrow. Either way it will make it easier to clean the thing. I have a stack of homies to go through, luckily I only had two little macs to do, both of those are done. One runs real good, the other, runs so so. I don't think I have the correct carb needle in it.

Would you know offhand what the real fuel line size is? And I notice it is rubber, is that better than tygon or the clear stuff?

Thanks for all your help! I figure with all the rep the super ezs have, I'd work on the lesser ones first, to get the hang of them.

I think..hmm..for homies..not sure I have now kicking around four of the modern looking generic box store homies, a little xl top handle (was my one saw plan for some years), and some other more modern one that has a removable head if I am remembering correctly (in a crate under the bench now) That one needs the spark plug hole timeserted. It ran good, just kept literally blowing spark plugs out. Tried a helicoil, epoxy, all sorts of stuff, didn't know about timeserts back then. Or another head.

Hmm, got 2 of the 240s and a coupla/few others I fergit now. Nothing big or old or exotic, just plain jane old working saws (at one time)

This is all just practice for me, making myself work on anything that comes my way, just to familiarize myself with them. I'd like a nice variety of good runners for myself (covered now from 70cc on down, still want around a 90 or so), but I am taking this as more hands on schooling for the future.

I'm not sure about the size of the fuel line 3/32 I.D. I think. The neoprene line is probably better than the tygon line for oil and pulse hose, Tygon is ok for fuel. I have used the Tygon for oil lines also without any bad effect. I'm still sure I wouldn't take engine out of case unless something is wrong with it. You can render your saw useless if you make a mistake loosening that clutch. If you do take the clutch off remember it is reverse thread. I snapped a crank off once turning it the wrong way.

 

[zogger]

I'm not sure about the size of the fuel line 3/32 I.D. I think. The neoprene line is probably better than the tygon line for oil and pulse hose, Tygon is ok for fuel. I have used the Tygon for oil lines also without any bad effect. I'm still sure I wouldn't take engine out of case unless something is wrong with it. You can render your saw useless if you make a mistake loosening that clutch. If you do take the clutch off remember it is reverse thread. I snapped a crank off once turning it the wrong way.

Thanks again. Ya watch it on clutches. I take the clutches off most of the saws anyway just to clean them out and clean and relube the little bearings. Same on the starter side, clean behind the flywheel, inspect ignition system, etc.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Clutch Sprocket

Does anyone know if a clutch and sprocket for a 360 will fit on an XL12?

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Do a search for "Fuel line trick" I posted some months ago.

Tried to copy/paste the link but not working now.

just saw your comment. looks like something i was thinking but i hadn't gotten to the pig-tail or "end-block" part yet. thanks carl. now to go forth and conquer.

 

[zogger]

Well, the 240 is taken apart, cleaned, the fuel/oil tank does not have duckbill vents, apparently just the caps do that chore. Next week go to town and find the right size fuel line. Some generic poulan line I have, the clear stuff, is close but too loose going through the tank hole. I'll look for some rubber line at the car parts store maybe. Need another filter too, then that should be it!

Dang ran out of bench, got all this stuff all laid out ready to go back together.

I was thinking about this today, would be nice to have like shelves built to fit large trays, put a saw in pieces into a tray with some sort of lip so you don't lose pieces, reach it up, slide it into a slot until you can get to it again, if you hit a a stopping point and need to come back to it. Then it would be instant clear the bench, work on something else.

I hates that various fuel line is so expensive, like to have a 50 foot roll of any possible chain saw size handy. Must be nice to have a well stocked shop so you can keep going on repairs, fuel line, oil line, impulse, carb kits, all of that.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Well, the 240 is taken apart, cleaned, the fuel/oil tank does not have duckbill vents, apparently just the caps do that chore. Next week go to town and find the right size fuel line. Some generic poulan line I have, the clear stuff, is close but too loose going through the tank hole. I'll look for some rubber line at the car parts store maybe. Need another filter too, then that should be it!

Dang ran out of bench, got all this stuff all laid out ready to go back together.

I was thinking about this today, would be nice to have like shelves built to fit large trays, put a saw in pieces into a tray with some sort of lip so you don't lose pieces, reach it up, slide it into a slot until you can get to it again, if you hit a a stopping point and need to come back to it. Then it would be instant clear the bench, work on something else.

I hates that various fuel line is so expensive, like to have a 50 foot roll of any possible chain saw size handy. Must be nice to have a well stocked shop so you can keep going on repairs, fuel line, oil line, impulse, carb kits, all of that.

Maybe they made different versions of the 240 like they did the XL, XL2, Super 2 etc. but my 240s all had duckbill valves and solid caps, non vented. They sit in an indented part of the tanks facing the starter assy.

 

[gomlin]

Picked up my XP 1020 today. Here are some pics just as it came to me.

Jim

 

[gomlin]

Here are a few more. There is an odd screw under the starter...not sure where it came from...

Jim

 

[zogger]

Maybe they made different versions of the 240 like they did the XL, XL2, Super 2 etc. but my 240s all had duckbill valves and solid caps, non vented. They sit in an indented part of the tanks facing the starter assy.

--they must have, because that is how this one is, vented caps, no duckbills.

I have another one under the bench, eventually I'll get to that one and see what it looks like.