Homelite Chainsaws

[jerrycmorrow]

ok so i went and picked up a homelite 330 UT10540, it didnt have a bar or chain so i had to go pick one up problem one.........i bought a 18" bar with chain but when tightening the chain up it also lifts the nose of the bar up and when it does that the chain doesnt seem to round as smoothly as it should almost like the drive teeth arnt the right count if somone could help in that area it would be great problem two.........................i can start the saw on full choke it will run for about 5 to 6 seconds and die out like normal then i turn the choke off and go to start it and it revs way way way high for about 3 seconds and just dies then i have a heck of a time restarting it.....if somone could help me with this i would be much obliged

just recently replaced my intake boot. hint: remove the carb, carb plate, AND the oiler assembly when taking it apart. you WILL have to muscle that thing to disassemble. just make sure all AV bolts are out before starting to muscle. it is a pita but really not that difficult once you've done it before. nice little saw but the intake boot seems to be the weak point and if you buy a used 330 you are almost always guaranteed you will need to replace the boot. go for it.

 

[lesorubcheek]

Thanks Dan. And here is another little known fact. The 2000 has a slightly different muffler cover than the 2100.
.....

That's a good one. Never noticed that diff before. There's at least a third variation of cover used with the larger downdraft muffler. These seem more like a rough cast type mag compared to smoother casting of the smaller covers. Same texture as the earlier 1050 and 1130 cover that looked rough cast compared to the later ones that looked smoother.

Dan

 

[travis-t]

Thanks everyone for the help i will check all of those things over and get back to you and let ya know how it turned out if i could possible trouble somone for a parts list i checked in the stickys and could find anything thanks again

 

[travis-t]

330 homelite

just looked it over the bar is an 18 in" bar and the writing on it say it needs a 66 drive link count i looked at the chain and its a 72 drive link count i find it hard to believe i took this to a trained professional and he still messed it up lol oh well just take it back and swap for the right one and in regaurds to the sproket deff gonna need a new one this one has some good grooves going through it but itll do for now need it as a back up for a job coming up
View attachment 229931

 

[twofusion]

anyone on this thread have a service manual and parts manual for the super wiz 55?

thank you in advance.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

just looked it over the bar is an 18 in" bar and the writing on it say it needs a 66 drive link count i looked at the chain and its a 72 drive link count i find it hard to believe i took this to a trained professional and he still messed it up lol oh well just take it back and swap for the right one and in regaurds to the sproket deff gonna need a new one this one has some good grooves going through it but itll do for now need it as a back up for a job coming up
View attachment 229931

There's a 3/8 and a 3/8 low profile chain. The smaller saws use the smaller low profile chain. I believe yours came out with the regular 3/8. If you have the regular chain on the bar made for the low profile chain the chain will stick up when it goes around the tip of the bar if it even fits in the bar at all, at least some of the low profile chains were also narrower.

 

[travis-t]

this is just a standard 3/8 bar the chain is also a 3/8 but on the bar it calls for a 66 link chain and the one that they gave me is a 72 link im thinkin thats where im getting the cogging sound from and the not rounding smoothly

 

[travis-t]

and just somthing to add to all these questions since im confused now because i just counted the links on this chain which is in fact a 66 link chain "not a 72" could it be that the teeth on the sproket is just to worn down i didnt think it would cause it to do this

 

[Roanoker494]

and just somthing to add to all these questions since im confused now because i just counted the links on this chain which is in fact a 66 link chain "not a 72" could it be that the teeth on the sproket is just to worn down i didnt think it would cause it to do this

It is not uncommon for the box to show one DL count and the chain actually be different. Saw shops do not carry every chain in every DL count and will commonly remove links to make a chain shorter. If the sprocket is worn it could cause the problems you describe.

 

[travis-t]

Thanks a million to everyone who had some input for me i think what it all is going to boil down to is just buying a new sprocket and that rubber boot for the carb and then ill have a good running saw lol

 

[watsonr]

Someone just bought a nice looking NOS 750 piston before I could push the button. Now who was it?

 

[Roanoker494]

Someone just bought a nice looking NOS 750 piston before I could push the button. Now who was it?

If only I had seen it............. Bet if he had run a auction he would have gotten $100 more for it.

 

[lesorubcheek]

If only I had seen it............. Bet if he had run a auction he would have gotten $100 more for it.

It actually went for right at 150 with a BIN. Sounded nuts to me, but I guess when you think the only way to get one is to have 'em made, and that'll cost even more than 150, maybe it ain't too nuts after all. At least its proof there's a few more of these still around.

Dan

 

[paccity]

got a question for the homie braintrust . what if any differences are there be tween the 1130g and the 1100g. other than years i don't see a lot if any .

 

[Eccentric]

got a question for the homie braintrust . what if any differences are there be tween the 1130g and the 1100g. other than years i don't see a lot if any .

Minor stuff. Carb, intake manifold, and starter can be different. Depends on the exact saws.

 

[lesorubcheek]

Probably the most noticeable is the starters, 1100 used the overrunning bearing type like the XP1000. 1130s starter were all the twin pawl types. Paint job and decals obviously different. Different carburetors... There's several detail diffs like the revision of the fuel tank top... sprocket shaft had holes drilled for venting the gear case on the 1130s... Early 1100s had a shorter worm gear that also used a spacer... Sure there's several other things. There was also the 1130 Super that used the newer con rod and piston setup with alot having the SDC carb.

Dan

 

[Eccentric]

Yep. A lot of the same stuff that changed in the XP1000/XP1020/XP1020A/1050/1050-S run. Some saws have HL's with accelerator pumps. Some have no ide speed adjustment screw on the carb (and instead have the goofy 'bypass' idle air adjustment manifold and the tube that runs down to a nipple at the cylinder base). Late saws will have SDC's with that funky black manifold, and the 'spit collector' stack on the choke side of the carb. I never understood the change to the drilled sprocket shaft for venting. Seems more expensive to manufacture,and more problematic to me. The IPL even instructs shops to order the drilled shaft (and plug the old vent) when sourcing a replacement shaft. I've also seen XP1000, XP1130, 1130G, and Super 1130G saws.

 

[lesorubcheek]

Thanks Dan. And here is another little known fact. The 2000 has a slightly different muffler cover than the 2100.

Here is a picture. The one on the left is a 2000. The one on the right has a broken ear, but is a 2100.

Started digging a little more on this one. Here's a pic of the different muffler covers I'm aware of (now thanks to Ambull).

Now the weird thing. Can't see any difference in the part number between the one with the aiming line and the one without. Both have an identical 64836-1. No differences show up in the IPL numbers either. Really strange there isn't a different rev number noted on these.

Homelite was constantly revising parts (and their numbers), but don't know if can remember a case where two different parts appeared to use the exact same number. Sure good to learn new stuff. Thanks again Ambull for sharing the info..

Dan

 

[kev1n]

Hi guys, I'm tearing down a C72 to see what parts left are any good. I'm having trouble getting the clutch off. I tried the spanner wrench and the punch and hammer going left. Do I just need to try harder or am I doing something wrong?
TIA, Kevin

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Hi guys, I'm tearing down a C72 to see what parts left are any good. I'm having trouble getting the clutch off. I tried the spanner wrench and the punch and hammer going left. Do I just need to try harder or am I doing something wrong?
TIA, Kevin

I think you're going backwards. The clutch turns clockwise to remove.