Homelite Chainsaws

[a. palmer jr.]

I've seen NOS electronic ign modules for 150's on feebay before. IIRC, I've seen factory "conversion kits" for 150's too. It had a module, flywheel, and other stuff I can't remember. Since I'm not in the "love 'em" camp for the 150's (and guys either love 'em or.....), I didn't look too closely at the listings. I have seen TONS of NOS parts for those things on the bay over the last year. About six months ago, there was a sudden increase of it. Some distributor or dealer must've sold out their NOS stuff. Lots of NOS cases, ignitions, P/C's, whole engines, and the like. Only thing on 150's that I pay attention to are the clutch drums (when they're rim drive) and the bars, as they can both be used on my Super E-Z's...

Uh, when I said I liked them I didn't mean I actively seek them out when looking for a saw, it's just that if one comes my way for cheap I don't turn them down. I generally fix them up a little, maybe use them some and then put them for sale. I had one that I really wanted to keep but it ended up getting away from me also, now I'm 150less. I'll probably find one this summer at the flea markets but it won't be as good as the one I let get away.

 

[lesorubcheek]

Strange. My EZ and EZ6 both have the flat reed setup. I'm putting my EZ6 back together with the pyramid reed intake setup from a 600D and the carb and fuel tank from my EZ. The EZ has a roached P/Cand a broken flywheel cover, and the EZ6 has corrosion issues(but a good engine). The HL's had different numbers, but don't appear any different. Same bore measurements. I've seen an IPL that has both the EZ an EZ6 in it. Both saws were shown with the single reed. Different part numbers for the cylinders, crankcase covers, and flywheel covers. Maybe the first EZ6 saws were flat reed, an that IPL was a 'transitional' one. Who knows. Lots of parts get swapped on saws over the decades too. My two saws came to me in boxes...

I have seen errors in IPL's before. I have a McCulloch 797 IPL with NO part numbers. Only illustrations, and lists of parts with the reference numbers next to the part names. The space to the right of the part names where the part numbers normally would be (like in other Mac IPL's) is blank. I also have a McCulloch 450 IPL which has a screwed up specifications page. It has "1.5" in the spot for the displacement (in ci) and "1" in the spot fore the bore...

The IPLs I've referenced for the EZ6 are one with no date that has a handwritten note for below SN 739839, one dated July '57, one dated August '57, and one with September '57. They all show the same reed setup.

I hear ya about the IPL errors. Every time I see the 1050 starter schematic that shows a 2100 starter housing have to ask who they used to review these things before publishing.

Dan

 

[tmessenger]

On line 150 IPL here:

Homelite 150 Parts List and Diagram - (UT-10432-A) : eReplacementParts.com

 

[XPLRN]

The irony of the 150 is, at least in a few older Homelite shop notes, it was actually built for ease of service! I tend to agree, but as already said, you have to do it a few times to understand it. If its your first time tearing into one, its so unconventional compared to other saws that everything seems weird. Give it half a chance though and its a really simple saw to repair. It was Homelite's first piston ported saw.

Dan

Thanks Dan, for that info hit on 150 irony regarding service ease. Also appreciate you learnin' me about the nteresting fact that it was the first piston ported saw in the Homelite lineup. I look forward to checking it out more and seeing what I'm up against to get it running or if it's just a parts donor!!???

I have to admit the 150 lines were what attracted me to it...........love the curves!! ;-)

Thanks to A.P.J and Eccentric for the additional thoughts regarding the ignition. Any known way of I.D.-ing the S/N to find out if it's still a points unit or an electronic setup???

Thanks ' tmessenger ' for the link for the on-line PL !! Should help down the road when I tear into it!!

 

[ChainsawmanXX]

 

[Ambull]

OK I am trying to build some Homelite 2100's out of a bunch of half-ass saws. Couple questions.....

1. Do all the 2100's have the coil mounted to the cylinder?
2. Do all the 2000's have the coil under the flywheel?
3. Do all the 2100's have the two thin ring pistons?
4. Do all the 2000's have a single thick ring piston?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Eccentric]

OK I am trying to build some Homelite 2100's out of a bunch of half-ass saws. Couple questions.....

1. Do all the 2100's have the coil mounted to the cylinder?
2. Do all the 2000's have the coil under the flywheel?
3. Do all the 2100's have the two thin ring pistons?
4. Do all the 2000's have a single thick ring piston?

Thanks for your help.

I'll be watching this with interest JP. Only Q I can answer for sure is #3.............and the answer is no. I believe there were three different rings used in 2100 saws. Thin, thick, and 'dykes'. This answer includes the 2100-Super.

 

[CM76]

OK I am trying to build some Homelite 2100's out of a bunch of half-ass saws. Couple questions.....

1. Do all the 2100's have the coil mounted to the cylinder?
2. Do all the 2000's have the coil under the flywheel?
3. Do all the 2100's have the two thin ring pistons?
4. Do all the 2000's have a single thick ring piston?

Thanks for your help.

I can answer question 4 with certainty: The 2000 model machines came with 2 rings. This is confirmed in the IPL's I have. I have not seen a single ring piston.
As for the second question - All of the 2000 model saws I have, and have come across, have had the coil mount under the flywheel.

Chris.

 

[leeha]

OK I am trying to build some Homelite 2100's out of a bunch of half-ass saws. Couple questions.....

1. Do all the 2100's have the coil mounted to the cylinder?
2. Do all the 2000's have the coil under the flywheel?
3. Do all the 2100's have the two thin ring pistons?
4. Do all the 2000's have a single thick ring piston?

Thanks for your help.

Question 1 Yes
Question 2 yes
Question 3 only the Super 2100 had the thin rings
The early 2100 had the Dykes ring then later went
to the 2 thick ring piston on the 2100S. like the 3100G
Question 4 The 2000 had a 2 thick ring piston.
But the piston had wrist pin buttons to hold the wrist pin.
This info is going by the original IPL's i have.



Lee

 

[lesorubcheek]

OK I am trying to build some Homelite 2100's out of a bunch of half-ass saws. Couple questions.....

1. Do all the 2100's have the coil mounted to the cylinder?
2. Do all the 2000's have the coil under the flywheel?
3. Do all the 2100's have the two thin ring pistons?
4. Do all the 2000's have a single thick ring piston?

Thanks for your help.

1. Yes.
2. Yes.
3. 2100 had a single Dykes ring. 2100S (Standard) had two thick rings. Super 2100 had 2 thin rings.
4. 2000 had two thick rings. Super 2000 had single Dykes ring.

Dan

 

[roncoinc]

Ok,,i guess i need an IPL for this beast to see how to get to the points.
first one i have had that is complete and in good shape.
no spark i think.
AND,,how to hell do you hold onto this thing to pull it over !!
26 - LCS

 

[roncoinc]

Good little saw for a midgit jakob

 

[Ambull]

1. Yes.
2. Yes.
3. 2100 had a single Dykes ring. 2100S (Standard) had two thick rings. Super 2100 had 2 thin rings.
4. 2000 had two thick rings. Super 2000 had single Dykes ring.

Dan

Thanks Dan. And here is another little known fact. The 2000 has a slightly different muffler cover than the 2100.

Here is a picture. The one on the left is a 2000. The one on the right has a broken ear, but is a 2100.

Here is another pic of a 2100 cover:

 

[leeha]

The only difference i see JP
is the 2000 doesn't have the sight
line for sighting the tree when felling.
Interesting, I will have to check mine.




Lee

 

[travis-t]

330 help!!!

ok so i went and picked up a homelite 330 UT10540, it didnt have a bar or chain so i had to go pick one up problem one.........i bought a 18" bar with chain but when tightening the chain up it also lifts the nose of the bar up and when it does that the chain doesnt seem to round as smoothly as it should almost like the drive teeth arnt the right count if somone could help in that area it would be great problem two.........................i can start the saw on full choke it will run for about 5 to 6 seconds and die out like normal then i turn the choke off and go to start it and it revs way way way high for about 3 seconds and just dies then i have a heck of a time restarting it.....if somone could help me with this i would be much obliged

 

[a. palmer jr.]

ok so i went and picked up a homelite 330 UT10540, it didnt have a bar or chain so i had to go pick one up problem one.........i bought a 18" bar with chain but when tightening the chain up it also lifts the nose of the bar up and when it does that the chain doesnt seem to round as smoothly as it should almost like the drive teeth arnt the right count if somone could help in that area it would be great problem two.........................i can start the saw on full choke it will run for about 5 to 6 seconds and die out like normal then i turn the choke off and go to start it and it revs way way way high for about 3 seconds and just dies then i have a heck of a time restarting it.....if somone could help me with this i would be much obliged

It sounds like you need to replace the intake boot on that saw. Common thing on all 330 saws. There's a procedure spelled out on the internet, just google it and it'll take you there. It may also be on you tube. The first time you do it will seem intimidating but it gets easier after the first one. Boots are still widely available.
I always lift up on the tip of the bar when tightening a chain, that prevents it from being too tight when you use the saw. You may also have the wrong bar for that saw. I think those take a 3/8 chain and it's possible the bar may be a .325 or something. They usually say on the bar what they are.

 

[homelitejim]

also check that the bar studs are the right fit for the bar, you may need a spacer it the bar slot is to wide for the studs.

 

[Ambull]

ok so i went and picked up a homelite 330 UT10540, it didnt have a bar or chain so i had to go pick one up problem one.........i bought a 18" bar with chain but when tightening the chain up it also lifts the nose of the bar up and when it does that the chain doesnt seem to round as smoothly as it should almost like the drive teeth arnt the right count if somone could help in that area it would be great problem two.........................i can start the saw on full choke it will run for about 5 to 6 seconds and die out like normal then i turn the choke off and go to start it and it revs way way way high for about 3 seconds and just dies then i have a heck of a time restarting it.....if somone could help me with this i would be much obliged

Yeah I almost guarantee you have the wrong sprocket on your saw for that bar and chain. You should be able to pull the chain easily along the bar without any cogging from the sprocket. Sounds like you have a bad intake boot as well. They are a PITA to replace, but at least you will learn your saw pretty well. Look up a vid on how to tune a carb as well, you will need to do this when you get the boot fixed.

 

[paccity]

like what was said , should have 3/8.s b/c . some pic's of the tail end of the bar would help.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

like what was said , should have 3/8.s b/c . some pic's of the tail end of the bar would help.

Your saw should already have a 3/8" clutch sprocket on it. To find out if your chain is 3/8 measure between three consecutive rivets on your chain and divide by two. If that doesn't equal 3/8" then that's your problem. The bar sprocket should also be 3/8, if it's not then you have the wrong bar also.