Homelite Chainsaws

[67L36Driver]

Yep. The squared section at the front of the stud slot in the bar fits over a 'block' that is the adjuster nut. The adjuster screw moves this block/nut back and forth.

And, the screw is a #8-32tpi fillister head 1" long threaded all the way to the head. Not a normal hardware store item but you can improvise.

 

[BroncoRN]

Lady at saw shop gave me a bag of the homelite bolts and c clips! And 2 duckbill valves! I made the adjuster block out of a poulan block and it works great. Now i can use homelite and poulan bars.

Saw is still finnicky and recoil is shot to hell. Im gonna get a chain tomorrow and make an air filter out of a scour pad to try and dial saw in.

 

[psuiewalsh]

Just the trick that I was thinking about. Will try to round up some tygon tomorrow.

I have not been able to get the tygon due to tight schedule but I did figure out there was nothing wrong with the trigger it just had been put in the wrong hole on the carb lever plate. Maybe tomorrow for the tygon...

 

[BroncoRN]

Noticed the gas in the tank of the SXL 922 boiled when I used this past weekend. I see the cap has some type of a vent in the side which apparently doesnt work. Is the boiling gas dangerous?? Would it be better to drill a hole in the cap and put one of those duckbill valves in there?

 

[Eccentric]

Noticed the gas in the tank of the SXL 922 boiled when I used this past weekend. I see the cap has some type of a vent in the side which apparently doesnt work. Is the boiling gas dangerous?? Would it be better to drill a hole in the cap and put one of those duckbill valves in there?

That cap has/had a duckbill valve under the sintered bronze filter (the 'side vent hole'). Probably has turned to goo. You carefully pick that bronze filter out to get to the duckbill. The duckbill lets air IN and NOT out however. Those saws will sometimes boil the gas. Just the way they are. How did you notice it? Did you see it bubbling when you removed the cap? If so, don't worry about it. If it was peeing/spraying out of that side vent on the cap, then you do indeed need to replace the duckbill valve. Make sure the saw is not tuned too lean. That will lessen the boiling, but may well not eliminate it.

 

[BroncoRN]

It was spraying it out of the cap or side of the cap. Just when I opened the cap there was a nice rolling boil going on in there. Is there a danger of vapor lock? I had four saws with me at the time so I just set it aside and let it cool down.

Im fairly certain the saw is tuned well. It four strokes at WOT. Only thing I dont really understand is tuning the Low side of the carb. What I have been doing is tuning the low side so it doesnt bog when you engage the throttle.

Just to make things more fun the Super 2 and my Stihl FS80 have only one adjustment screw!

 

[BroncoRN]

Another problem Ive been having is how to remove my Homelite mufflers. Cant figure out how to get the muffler off the Super 2 and the SXL 922. Im sure it something simple but I cant find any bolts. Do you have to pry off the muffler cover or something???

 

[leecopland]

Noticed the gas in the tank of the SXL 922 boiled when I used this past weekend. I see the cap has some type of a vent in the side which apparently doesnt work. Is the boiling gas dangerous?? Would it be better to drill a hole in the cap and put one of those duckbill valves in there?

I have a Pioneer 1073 that will boil gas if used for a while. There is a thread somewhere on here that covers the cleaning needed to stop Homelite saws from boiling gas. If you get a buildup of oily sawdust packed under the fly wheel (?) it impeads the cooling process. Worth a search.

Lee

 

[lesorubcheek]

Another problem Ive been having is how to remove my Homelite mufflers. Cant figure out how to get the muffler off the Super 2 and the SXL 922. Im sure it something simple but I cant find any bolts. Do you have to pry off the muffler cover or something???

I've seen at least 2 different types of mufflers on the little XLs and Super 2s. No matter what type though, pretty sure they're all going to use a single screw that's dead center of the muffler body. One type has a flat head screw that you can see on the outside under a heat shield. There will be a hole in the shield to get at it. I've seen others without a shield and a small hole in the center to get to a recessed bolt inside. Pretty sure the one's I've came across like this had an allen headed bolt buried down at the base of the muffler where it mates to the cylinder. Sounds like you may be dealing with one of this type. Who knows the type of bolt head that'll be there since previous owners could potentially put anything in it, but I know I have a couple that both had allen heads. Sorry, but can't help with the 922.

Dan

 

[Eccentric]

Most of the XL700/800/900 series mufflers have the cover held to the body with three screws. the body is held to the cylinder with three screws (one on each side of the port, plus one more in the can towards the 'rear' of the saw) that are accessed once the cover is removed. IIRC (and my memory isn't the best..), your saw has one of those weird bottom-outlet mufflers that I've mostly seen on VI944/955 saws. I've only seen those mufflers in pictures. There's gotta be screws that hold the cover to the can. Maybe they're on the edges of the cover where it overlaps the can. Post a couple pics of that muffler if you can.

 

[BroncoRN]

I will post some pics on monday most likely as I have to work all weekend. Came across anotheer issue with the Super 2. Its hard to start and idles a little irratic at times. I was starting to think gasket leak at intake. Are there two seperate gaskets between carb and where reed valve seats onto the block?

 

[psuiewalsh]

I have not been able to get the tygon due to tight schedule but I did figure out there was nothing wrong with the trigger it just had been put in the wrong hole on the carb lever plate. Maybe tomorrow for the tygon...

I could not find the 1/4" id and 5/16" od tygon. I have a smaller a 3/16ID and a larger 3/8od to try.

Look what else followed me home when it heard that was going to do a fuel lineectamy. The line on this 925 is melted to goo in the tank and the carb is gooey too. It will run with gas dumped down the carb so I have lots of hope.

 

[67L36Driver]

They make a nice pair.

 

[psuiewalsh]

They make a nice pair.

I have been working with the 103 all day. I put the line in and took the carb apart and cleaned it. I checked the fuel filter too but the thing acts like it will not rev. At full throttle the chain barley moves. I acts like a chain brake is on but there is no chain brake. It seems to rev without the chain on. I took the clutch off but did not see anything that looks wrong. Also is gas supposed to come out of the hole in the airbox? Is that where the tank vents?

 

[procarbine2k1]

Here ya go guys, they finally came in. I posted them up in the chainsaw thread, but thought I should chime in here too. More pics to follow of the 2000, spent all of my time on the XL100 tonight. UFC fight tonight, going to hit the road in a few.

 

[procarbine2k1]

 

[a. palmer jr.]

They make a nice pair.

I have been working with the 103 all day. I put the line in and took the carb apart and cleaned it. I checked the fuel filter too but the thing acts like it will not rev. At full throttle the chain barley moves. I acts like a chain brake is on but there is no chain brake. It seems to rev without the chain on. I took the clutch off but did not see anything that looks wrong. Also is gas supposed to come out of the hole in the airbox? Is that where the tank vents?

Is the chain the same gauge as the bar? If it has a sprocket nose bar is the sprocket hard to turn? Most of the Homelites vent through the gas cap.

 

[Eccentric]

Here ya go guys, they finally came in. I posted them up in the chainsaw thread, but thought I should chime in here too. More pics to follow of the 2000, spent all of my time on the XL100 tonight. UFC fight tonight, going to hit the road in a few.

OK some "You Suck!" is in order. Two saws from the top of my 'list' right there......

 

[psuiewalsh]

Is the chain the same gauge as the bar? If it has a sprocket nose bar is the sprocket hard to turn? Most of the Homelites vent through the gas cap.

It is all in the carb that I can tell. I was able to get it to rev for a little then it falls off. The cap that came with the saw does not look vented. There is a hole up high in the air box that looks like to vent the tank then there is a hole with a fiber plug down by the muffler side of the air box to let fluid out?

The chain turns fine by hand mounted to the saw.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

It is all in the carb that I can tell. I was able to get it to rev for a little then it falls off. The cap that came with the saw does not look vented. There is a hole up high in the air box that looks like to vent the tank then there is a hole with a fiber plug down by the muffler side of the air box to let fluid out?

The chain turns fine by hand mounted to the saw.

An easy way to tell if it's not venting is to run it with the gas cap loose. Most of the saw companies experimented with different ways to vent the tank. If the cap isn't vented they must have a hole in the top of the tank with a line coming out of it or a duckbill valve sticking into the hole.