Homelite Chainsaws
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timmytensaws
ArboristSite Member
How much is too much?
HI
Just tearing down my first Homelite (VI 955) and I have a question about the roller bearing on the flywheel side of the crank shaft. There seems to be a little play in it, but all the other bearings are in great condition. Im wondering if there is meant to be some as this is a large roller breaing so I assume it would be the slowest to wear.
So, how much play is too much in roller bearing? I always thought that any noticeable play in a bearing meant it was toast.
If it is shot then I intend to replace both crank bearings, seals and the connecting rod bearings. My IPL is a bad copy so does anybody know the numbers for these? Or have a readable copy of the IPL.
Thanks in advance
Timmy
HI
Just tearing down my first Homelite (VI 955) and I have a question about the roller bearing on the flywheel side of the crank shaft. There seems to be a little play in it, but all the other bearings are in great condition. Im wondering if there is meant to be some as this is a large roller breaing so I assume it would be the slowest to wear.
So, how much play is too much in roller bearing? I always thought that any noticeable play in a bearing meant it was toast.
If it is shot then I intend to replace both crank bearings, seals and the connecting rod bearings. My IPL is a bad copy so does anybody know the numbers for these? Or have a readable copy of the IPL.
Thanks in advance
Timmy
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
You could drill a hole for ice cubes, it may not help. Make sure the saw motor is clean, that the fins are all on the flywheel and reasonably clean, and that you are running no more than 10% ethanol with the correct oil mix, at least 50:1. If the cylinder is full of carbon, and often times is on these older saws, you can add some Seafoam to the mix, spraying it in the cylinder overnight a few times would also help. A synthetic oil with some castor in it will help clean things up. Also pull the muffler cover and check to see that the screen is clear.
Some boiling is normal on that saw as Aaron said. If it bothers you, then you may have to find another saw if all the above checks out. The vent is to allow air in, not out, and if its boiling as bad as you say, the vapors escaping could be bad news.
I've drilled hole in the cap to accept a brass fitting that was machined to hold a duck bill valve.
procarbine2k1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I spent some time with the 2000 tonight, should be all cleaned up by tomorrow. I sat it on the parts washer on my way in tonight and should finish up tomorrow afternoon some time.
Ok Im still working on the Super 2. Still takes some choice pulls to get it started. When I get it going usually it stays running. So here are my questions:
Which spark plug should this thing have? Right now it has a champion DJ7Y I think it is.
How do you tune a carb with just one screw?
Where can you get a replacement oil line? Would it be same as fuel line?
I seated the screw and then turned it one turn out to start. Thought I had it pretty good by ear, but when I made a cut with it seems to bog down. To me this made me think it was too rich. But along those same lines sometimes after I let off the throttle it takes the blade a few seconds to slow down and stop. That makes me think either the clutch is worn or I've got an intake leak. Any thoughts???
Which spark plug should this thing have? Right now it has a champion DJ7Y I think it is.
How do you tune a carb with just one screw?
Where can you get a replacement oil line? Would it be same as fuel line?
I seated the screw and then turned it one turn out to start. Thought I had it pretty good by ear, but when I made a cut with it seems to bog down. To me this made me think it was too rich. But along those same lines sometimes after I let off the throttle it takes the blade a few seconds to slow down and stop. That makes me think either the clutch is worn or I've got an intake leak. Any thoughts???
watsonr
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Any play in the crank bearing would be suspicious to me. Left or right in the rod bearing would be ok, but no up down play at all.
I've got a couple too ...
The Red/Green/White model was only made one year as far as I know. Chainsawlady here on the board has knowledge and parts for your saw as they sold them through their shop back in the day.
Your's a real nice looking one, most are more beat up and faded. Fun unit to have in small collection
The Red/Green/White model was only made one year as far as I know. Chainsawlady here on the board has knowledge and parts for your saw as they sold them through their shop back in the day.
Your's a real nice looking one, most are more beat up and faded. Fun unit to have in small collection
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
The Red/Green/White model was only made one year as far as I know. Chainsawlady here on the board has knowledge and parts for your saw as they sold them through their shop back in the day.
Your's a real nice looking one, most are more beat up and faded. Fun unit to have in small collection
Bruce I'd like to see that saw. I have lots of parts for this series if that saw of yours needs anything. I have blue/white XL-12 and XL-Auto saws as well as the 'common' red ones (and a red/white XL-15 gear drive that was unfortunately converted to a direct drive by somebody in the past). I don't have a "Christmas color" XL-Auto yet. I may know where your saw came from if you recently got it. If it's the saw I'm thinking of, I'm gonna be kicking myself for not trying to get it earlier. There was one in my area that I've known about for a while (but hadn't yet made a deal for). Guess I better check with them to see if they still have it (or if it's in the BrocLuno collection now)....
Im not giving up on this Super 2 yet, though today tested my patience and pissed me off for a couple of hours. During which time I discovered once a recoil spring unravels its DONE. So I need a recoil spring. Need to take the carb apart again and clean it again - maybe ultrasonic clean it. By that time the new gaskets will be here so hopefully that will fix the starting/running issue.
After it sits it seems to start very easy. No matter what there seems to be good spark. Makes me think there is crap in the carb....
What is best way to get recoil off the spring without having the damn thing come apart?????
After it sits it seems to start very easy. No matter what there seems to be good spark. Makes me think there is crap in the carb....
What is best way to get recoil off the spring without having the damn thing come apart?????
The recoil spring may be one of the most annoying aspects of chainsaw repair. It usually takes a lot of patience but I've rewound many of them in this last year, the latest was about 4 days ago, a Mac 10-10, sometimes it takes more than one try to rewind it but if it was easy anybody would be doing it. If you really don't want to fix the starter just buy a complete starter assembly for it, they're usually pretty cheap.
Ok well I definately need some help then. Have rewound two of them several times and they dont seem to work nearly as well. It wont retract the cord all the way in. What am I missing/doing wrong???
After rewinding them the cleaning pull feeling is gone. Seems like it catches and sticks now too.
After rewinding them the cleaning pull feeling is gone. Seems like it catches and sticks now too.
It's possible you didn't wind the pulley tight enough, you can go another turn and see how it does.
I find that hard to believe. Unless, it broke in the middle somewhere.
Get yourself a piece of 3/8" or 1/2" plywood. Using a coffee can or whatever works draw a circle about an 1/8" less in diameter than the nest for the spring. Get six 1" roofing nails and tack them in equal spaced around the circle. Start the anchor end next to one nail and wind the spring into the fenced in circle. Grab the spring with a needle nose pliers or your tiny vice grips and remove three nails to free the spring. Slide it out of the 'corral'. Set it in place and carefully release the pliers/vice grips.
Remember, no one gets recoil springs right the first time. Heck, it's a 50-50 proposition when I take one apart I'll get smacked again. And then, out comes the chunk of plywood and the roofing nails.
Check out youtube "Fixing A Slack Recoil Starter" there is a very clear demo of how to adjust the pull cord on a chainsaw without tearing it appart
Regards,
Lee
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Check out youtube "Fixing A Slack Recoil Starter" there is a very clear demo of how to adjust the pull cord on a chainsaw without tearing it appart
Regards,
Lee
I'll give you a hint: Did you see the little half round places on the edge of the pulley? That's to stick the rope into when you turn it, you don't have to remove anything.
