Homelite Chainsaws

[leecopland]

New Homie

Just picked up my new Homie. It's an XL12 blue one, pulls 150 PSI cold, started and ran on a prime. The fuel in it was orange! and smelt awful. Has a 16" hard nose bar in great shape but the chain is only about 50%. There is virtually no wear on the bottom of the saw I don't think it has done much work. Found it in cottage country so probably not used much in anger. Cost of this one $20.00

I've just agreed to buy 3 parts saws, 2 of which are Homies. One complete XL and a 2nd XL without a bar and chain. The 3rd one looks like a top handle Craftsman with antivibe, no bar. All these for $25.00

The dreaded CAD is kicking in!! Last year I only had 2 saws inherited from my father and a refurb Craftsman/poulan which has since died. I'll need to build a new shed.

Regards,

Lee

 

[struggle]

XL100 circular saw is running like a top. I think I may bring it to the WKPoor GTG. The 2000 is running great too, hopefully a bar and chain will show up for it soon...

Hopefully I can get you a vid Aaron, I know youve been waiting for one! That thing is running sweeeeeeeeeeeeet!

I second video on this

 

[67L36Driver]

Looks like a great score.

Massive chainbrake on the Poulan. 38cc??

 

[leecopland]

xl12 issues

My new xl12 has some issues. The "white rust" has taken it's toll. Can't get two of the screw/bolts out of the recoil side. It's hard to find a decent 5/16 socket and bolt heads this small round off very easily. I've managed to do just that on one of the muffler bolt heads. I'm soaking with wd-40 hopefully that will help but any other suggestions welcome!

View attachment 235950View attachment 235951

Regards,

Lee

 

[BroncoRN]

Soak in pb blaster first off. Use a 6 point socket and an impact driver.

 

[67L36Driver]

Soak in pb blaster first off. Use a 6 point socket and an impact driver.

And, an 8mm hex socket is half a hair smaller for a tighter fit. You may have to tap it on.

 

[BroncoRN]

Dont stress if you round them off, use a dremel and grind a groove across the head making it fit a flathead screwdriver. Absolute worst case you have to drill them out.

 

[leecopland]

My new xl12 has some issues. The "white rust" has taken it's toll. Can't get two of the screw/bolts out of the recoil side. It's hard to find a decent 5/16 socket and bolt heads this small round off very easily. I've managed to do just that on one of the muffler bolt heads. I'm soaking with wd-40 hopefully that will help but any other suggestions welcome!

View attachment 235950View attachment 235951

Regards,

Lee

This xl12 has some horrible black gunk in the fuel tank, the line and filter are still there amazingly. How do you clean out a fuel tank?

Regards,

Lee

 

[Eccentric]

This xl12 has some horrible black gunk in the fuel tank, the line and filter are still there amazingly. How do you clean out a fuel tank?

Regards,

Lee

Fill 2/3 or so full with fresh gas. Swish. Let sit for several hours to a day. Swish and drain. Repeat. Gets most of the crap out...

 

[BrocLuno]

XL Automatic bar ...

OK, so I have a couple of red, green, white XL Automatics (not Super) that have 5/16" studs. Built the same as the XL-12.

I have the "S" spring spacer for one so I can run a std XL bar on that one. But, the other I was thinking about trying a McCulloch mount 8mm D176 Oregon Pro-Lite cause I see them with the square long adjuster hole and the upper oiler hole and they are cheaper than an XL Bar and the spring spacer together by a fair margin.

Anyone have experience doing this? Does it work?

Any other ideas for bars with 8mm studs and the oiler hole in the right place for the XL Automatic?

 

[Eccentric]

I haven't tried a D176 bar on a 5/16" stud XL-12 saw yet. I THink I have three or four of these saws with the smaller studs (and a few with the 3/8" studs) so I am curious about this myself. I have a 3/8"slot D096 (regular XL mount) 16" Homelite labeled sprocket nose bar that you can have if you want it Bruce. You'd just need to get an "S" spacer for it to use it on your 5/16" stud saw. I MAY have a 5/16" slot XL-12 hardnose 16" bar that you can have instead if you'd prefer it. If I remember tomorrow, I'll toss those bars in the Ranger before I leave in the morning. You can look 'em over and pick the one you want (or take both if you can use them).

 

[BroncoRN]

This xl12 has some horrible black gunk in the fuel tank, the line and filter are still there amazingly. How do you clean out a fuel tank?

Regards,

Lee

Soften it up with gas orcarb cleaner or whatever then stick the hose in there and BLAST the gunk out.

 

[redsqwrl]

Xl-9%8

So spring is slowly working its way in and the love hate relationship i have with my concrete saw is in full affair.

This is the handiest impulse buy I have. 90% of the time this is my best friend. however the other 10% of the time, Like when YOu are 1/2 mile back in a salvage yard cutting a front clip off a super duty, or snow up to your butt needing to liberate some shackers pad lock off my gate...... Grrrrr. this little *ray of sunshine* won't start or run. Broke down and cleaned the crap out of the fuel filter screen and in a fit of brilliance decided to clean the jets. I stuffed a torch cleaning tip up a jet and popped a little fiber disc out of some sort of a jet. it is behind the choke but in front of the throtle plate. lucky I caught it and pushed it back in.

It however did not stay in place and I am sure it is injested into the motor.

The saw now idles the best it ever has but is extremly rich as without that little disc it is getting a ton of fuel you can see it.

anyone else have a flash of brilliance and wreck a perfectly good carb by cleaning that disc out of there jet?>

Mike

 

[Mastermind]

I have a Homelite 750 that needs the handle grip and a few other bits. Anyone know of a source???

 

[67L36Driver]

So spring is slowly working its way in and the love hate relationship i have with my concrete saw is in full affair.

This is the handiest impulse buy I have. 90% of the time this is my best friend. however the other 10% of the time, Like when YOu are 1/2 mile back in a salvage yard cutting a front clip off a super duty, or snow up to your butt needing to liberate some shackers pad lock off my gate...... Grrrrr. this little *ray of sunshine* won't start or run. Broke down and cleaned the crap out of the fuel filter screen and in a fit of brilliance decided to clean the jets. I stuffed a torch cleaning tip up a jet and popped a little fiber disc out of some sort of a jet. it is behind the choke but in front of the throtle plate. lucky I caught it and pushed it back in.

It however did not stay in place and I am sure it is injested into the motor.

The saw now idles the best it ever has but is extremly rich as without that little disc it is getting a ton of fuel you can see it.

anyone else have a flash of brilliance and wreck a perfectly good carb by cleaning that disc out of there jet?>
Mike

Yup, I put a 1/16" drill bit into two of them (batch rebuild).

You need an overhaul kit with the 'Main orfice check valve' in it. Little round plastic or rubber disc, a little round screen and a retainer ring. I forget the number.

Here is one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHECK-VALVE...805?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e62d49105

Note: 'They' have seen fit to eliminate the check valve and accelerator pump bits out of your garden variety SDC overhaul kit of late.

 

[BroncoRN]

The Super 2 is getting to be a pain. Replaced reed valve gasket and carb gasket. Got the recoil fixed up by putting some 3 in 1 around where screw holds assembly to the shell. I have to seat the screw then back it out about half a turn for it to work and not grab or seize. I think the biggest issue is tuning this carb...that single adjustment thing is for the birds. The sweet spot seems to be somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 of a turn. Anybody have any experience with these?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The Super 2 is getting to be a pain. Replaced reed valve gasket and carb gasket. Got the recoil fixed up by putting some 3 in 1 around where screw holds assembly to the shell. I have to seat the screw then back it out about half a turn for it to work and not grab or seize. I think the biggest issue is tuning this carb...that single adjustment thing is for the birds. The sweet spot seems to be somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 of a turn. Anybody have any experience with these?

...A little bit. You just have to fiddle with it until you get it right. It's easier with 2 screws but just set it where it will idle okay and work from there. You may not be able to get perfection but you can get it to where it's acceptable.

 

[Ambull]

I have a Homelite 750 that needs the handle grip and a few other bits. Anyone know of a source???

Can't wait to see that saw completed. Here is a picture of that 750 I have with the homemade bottom handle brace.

 

[67L36Driver]

Can't wait to see that saw completed. Here is a picture of that 750 I have with the homemade bottom handle brace.

Could have fooled me.:msp_thumbsup:

You need a button for that manual oiler?

 

[Mastermind]

Can't wait to see that saw completed. Here is a picture of that 750 I have with the homemade bottom handle brace.

That brace is fine JP. I can probably make something like that for mine. Thanks for the pic.