Homelite Chainsaws

[a. palmer jr.]

Coil

Getting back now to the EZ, I was wondering, since this is one of those modules you can remove from the frame, can I just separate the bad coil from it's frame and replace it with a module from a different saw? I'm pretty sure it would have to be another prestolite but I can probably find one of those..

 

[Eccentric]

Getting back now to the EZ, I was wondering, since this is one of those modules you can remove from the frame, can I just separate the bad coil from it's frame and replace it with a module from a different saw? I'm pretty sure it would have to be another prestolite but I can probably find one of those..

Worth a shot.

 

[8433jeff]

Worth a shot.

Is it?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Is it?

I checked the prices of the modules for this particular saw and I checked the prices for the running saw itself. They are just about the same price, around $60 for either. I doubt if mine will bring more than $50 so I'm trying to find a cheap fix and I don't mind doing a little extra work to get this done. I just don't want a $50 saw with a $60 module in it. Anyway, I'm not in any hurry to get this back to running so I'll see what unfolds...

 

[lesorubcheek]

I checked the prices of the modules for this particular saw and I checked the prices for the running saw itself. They are just about the same price, around $60 for either. I doubt if mine will bring more than $50 so I'm trying to find a cheap fix and I don't mind doing a little extra work to get this done. I just don't want a $50 saw with a $60 module in it. Anyway, I'm not in any hurry to get this back to running so I'll see what unfolds...

Very admirable. Last year I picked up a fairly nice Poulan hedge trimmer that was in good shape other than the module was dead. Went through the scrap pile and found one, no idea where it came from, but had roughly the same shape and the size of the core was close. Swapped the good module on the core of the Poulan and it ran perfectly. It's been many years since school and electro-magnetism, but really think it boils down to magnetic polarity, and if so, ya got a 50/50 chance the module matches the field of the flywheel magnets. Whatever, it's sure worth trying, especially if you have some donor candidates lying around.

Dan

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Very admirable. Last year I picked up a fairly nice Poulan hedge trimmer that was in good shape other than the module was dead. Went through the scrap pile and found one, no idea where it came from, but had roughly the same shape and the size of the core was close. Swapped the good module on the core of the Poulan and it ran perfectly. It's been many years since school and electro-magnetism, but really think it boils down to magnetic polarity, and if so, ya got a 50/50 chance the module matches the field of the flywheel magnets. Whatever, it's sure worth trying, especially if you have some donor candidates lying around.

Dan

It's gonna be iffy but I'm gonna try. The lamination part of the module is an unusual shape because of the compactness of the saw so it may take a while to find the right one. I just ordered another Nova II module in case I can't find anything but a points coil. If I find a module I can always use the Nova on another saw.

 

[etilemoh]

Homelite XL-870 questions

Hey Tim,

I have been looking for information for one of my old Homelite saws. The data tag lists the saw as an XL-87. The data plate is original and not beat up. The color, size and design of the saw looks like your saw with the exception of the side markings XL-870 and the "Breaker less Points" label.

Owned this saw for about 23 years and it was a basket case when I picked it up. Put the saw back together (made new seals and a little welding) and the saw is still running strong. Largest tree fell was 6 foot diameter maple tree running a 4 foot bar.

 

[67L36Driver]

Hey Tim,

I have been looking for information for one of my old Homelite saws. The data tag lists the saw as an XL-87. The data plate is original and not beat up. The color, size and design of the saw looks like your saw with the exception of the side markings XL-870 and the "Breaker less Points" label.

Owned this saw for about 23 years and it was a basket case when I picked it up. Put the saw back together (made new seals and a little welding) and the saw is still running strong. Largest tree fell was 6 foot diameter maple tree running a 4 foot bar.

Belongs to the XL-800/XL-925 family. Model Profile: XL-870

 

[sawnami]

There are two versions of decals offered for a Super 2100. Any idea which is correct for one buildt late May 1973? The flywheel side on one is just white lettering and the other is a red,black, and white decal.

Thanks in advance!

 

[paccity]

well diggin threw saws to get going, " been slacking" pulled this fine lookin saw down changed the fuel filter gassed it up and runs and starts like a champ. accept my ears are kinda bleeding,:msp_rolleyes:. just need to dig for the appropriate bar and chain worthy of it. and also clean the protect ant off of it. did they or are there rim drives for this?

 

[machinisttx]

Howdy fellas, I picked up a Super XL12 auto, minus B/C, today for the sum of $10. Original color was blue, but evidently someone liked McCulloch yellow a bit better and did a poor job of spray painting it since the yellow is flaking off. Anyhow, after cleaning the plug and lubing the cylinder, it fired up with a bit of carb cleaner sprayed into the venturi. It needs a new fuel line, otherwise I would have poured in some 40-1 mix. I can't find any sort of a data plate on it, and I don't know if it ever had one. If someone can point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. For what it's worth, it was after dark by the time I got it going, so no pics yet. :msp_biggrin:

Edit: I've done some searching and still can't come up with anything other than a sticker, which I'm already familiar with, and isn't present on this saw. It's hard for me to believe that a saw made in the 60's/70's would have had a plastic sticker indicating the model number/serial number.

 

[huck01955]

well diggin threw saws to get going, " been slacking" pulled this fine lookin saw down changed the fuel filter gassed it up and runs and starts like a champ. accept my ears are kinda bleeding,:msp_rolleyes:. just need to dig for the appropriate bar and chain worthy of it. and also clean the protect ant off of it. did they or are there rim drives for this?

Very nice

 

[paccity]

well diggin threw saws to get going, " been slacking" pulled this fine lookin saw down changed the fuel filter gassed it up and runs and starts like a champ. accept my ears are kinda bleeding,:msp_rolleyes:. just need to dig for the appropriate bar and chain worthy of it. and also clean the protect ant off of it. did they or are there rim drives for this?

oh yea , and put a proper pull grip on it.:msp_wink:

 

[Junorr500]

$5 new to me xl130. Trouble getting it running.

View attachment 291609View attachment 291610View attachment 291612
Ok just picked this up. Spark is good. Compression is good. Cylinder is good. Will pop a couple times but won't stay running. Even at full throttle. Seems to be getting fuel but of course will be sourcing a fuel line and carb kit. Even if those were no good I should be able to get it to run for a few seconds by putting some gas down the carb but it won't.

I am reading that I should be checking the reed valves however i am unfamiliar with what these are and how to check them on this saw.

Any ideas or further steps to take would be helpful.

 

[machinisttx]

Here's a link to the wiki page on reed valves: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reed_valve

I have no experience with them, but they're pretty simple. I might get an education on them from the XL-12 auto I picked up earlier though. If there is vacuum(for an intake side reed valve), it should open, and if pressurized, stay closed.

 

[67L36Driver]

View attachment 291609View attachment 291610View attachment 291612
Ok just picked this up. Spark is good. Compression is good. Cylinder is good. Will pop a couple times but won't stay running. Even at full throttle. Seems to be getting fuel but of course will be sourcing a fuel line and carb kit. Even if those were no good I should be able to get it to run for a few seconds by putting some gas down the carb but it won't.

I am reading that I should be checking the reed valves however i am unfamiliar with what these are and how to check them on this saw.

Any ideas or further steps to take would be helpful.

All around excellent saw for the period. Almost everything you need to watch for is here: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/184699.htm

 

[brokenbudget]

nice little homelite super ez :msp_thumbup:
Homelite 16in Chainsaw w/accessories

i actualy think the money is right on for this one.

 

[leecopland]

nice little homelite super ez :msp_thumbup:
Homelite 16in Chainsaw w/accessories

i actualy think the money is right on for this one.

That is a beauty, I have a soft spot for these! I've not seen that type of muffler before. It may be a very late edition.

Be safe,

Lee:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Eccentric]

oh yea , and put a proper pull grip on it.:msp_wink:

Fraser I probably have a proper "Homelite" branded grip for you to put on that saw. Remind me before Bob's GTG.

nice little homelite super ez :msp_thumbup:
Homelite 16in Chainsaw w/accessories

i actualy think the money is right on for this one.

Yep.

 

[8433jeff]

Howdy fellas, I picked up a Super XL12 auto, minus B/C, today for the sum of $10. Original color was blue, but evidently someone liked McCulloch yellow a bit better and did a poor job of spray painting it since the yellow is flaking off. Anyhow, after cleaning the plug and lubing the cylinder, it fired up with a bit of carb cleaner sprayed into the venturi. It needs a new fuel line, otherwise I would have poured in some 40-1 mix. I can't find any sort of a data plate on it, and I don't know if it ever had one. If someone can point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. For what it's worth, it was after dark by the time I got it going, so no pics yet. :msp_biggrin:

Edit: I've done some searching and still can't come up with anything other than a sticker, which I'm already familiar with, and isn't present on this saw. It's hard for me to believe that a saw made in the 60's/70's would have had a plastic sticker indicating the model number/serial number.

XL-12's were made into the late 80's, maybe longer, IIRC.