Warped5
WingNut
I have two of those EZs and neither have any spark..
Ever consider some flowers, chocolate and soft music?
:jester:
I have two of those EZs and neither have any spark..
This is my Super Mini. Great looking P&C after I managed to get the somewhat rusty muffler cap off. This muffler is different from mu others with that cover over the slots. This saw is covered in baked on sawdust. This little sucker blows 170psi. Here are some photos not cleaned up yet - Enjoy
Ever consider some flowers, chocolate and soft music?
:jester:
Ever consider some flowers, chocolate and soft music?
:jester:
I've considered honing my skills at the shot put, using these saws.. All the modules I've priced cost more than the saw is worth.
May I suggest the hammer throw technique?
NAPA had those little chips for like $13.99 last summer ...
I've considered honing my skills at the shot put, using these saws. All the modules I've priced cost more than the saw is worth.
May I suggest the hammer throw technique?
Joe..........Nova module and points coil.
Joe..........Nova module and points coil.
So Aaron, you saying you can put a points flywheel and a module on an electronic SEZA and it will work? I guess you are. Wondering why I never thought of that? Duh!
So Aaron, you saying you can put a points flywheel and a module on an electronic SEZA and it will work? I guess you are. Wondering why I never thought of that? Duh!
I don't think that's what he said. I think the idea was to use a points coil and a Nova module. I've done that on several Stihls this year and an Echo or two..
yeah, i forgot to include the coil when i posted. i was thinking the timing of an electronic flywheel wouldn't work. guess i need to look closely at mine to compare.[/QUOTE
I'm assuming these old homies don't take a different flywheel for electronic vs points but I'll probably find out. Some of the Stihls I changed over took a different flywheel and some didn't.
yeah, i forgot to include the coil when i posted. i was thinking the timing of an electronic flywheel wouldn't work. guess i need to look closely at mine to compare.[/QUOTE
I'm assuming these old homies don't take a different flywheel for electronic vs points but I'll probably find out. Some of the Stihls I changed over took a different flywheel and some didn't.
amazing what you can find when you take the time to look. duh!
just looked at IPLs for the SEZAO. the flywheel is the same for both points and electronic. surprisingly, i found a different flywheel number for the EZ and EZA
amazing what you can find when you take the time to look. duh!
just looked at IPLs for the SEZAO. the flywheel is the same for both points and electronic. surprisingly, i found a different flywheel number for the EZ and EZA
What I really don't understand is why the saw was running so well and then just wouldn't start. It seems funny that it had spark until a short while after I bought it. Good thing I didn't pay much for it..
What I really don't understand is why the saw was running so well and then just wouldn't start. It seems funny that it had spark until a short while after I bought it. Good thing I didn't pay much for it..
can't recall if this was points or electronic but assuming points.
as you already know, it could be several things. start in order of ease.
plug
kill switch
all wires plugged in
HV wire
check coil for continuity
then pull the flywheel and check all wires are snug and have continuity and the end connections are solid, the points for continuity, the condenser for voltage,
etc.
i know you already know this but mostly for the benefit of newbies
could easily be something innocuous. i bebuilt a saw and it ran grand but one day in the middle of a cut it just stopped. when i started investigating it seems the point adjustment screw had loosened and the gap had gotten HUGE; also the nut connecting the condenser lead to the points case had loosened. obviously all the fault of the rebuilder for being a "nancy" when it came to snugging connectors and not using threadlock.
can't recall if this was points or electronic but assuming points.
as you already know, it could be several things. start in order of ease.
plug
kill switch
all wires plugged in
HV wire
check coil for continuity
then pull the flywheel and check all wires are snug and have continuity and the end connections are solid, the points for continuity, the condenser for voltage,
etc.
i know you already know this but mostly for the benefit of newbies
could easily be something innocuous. i bebuilt a saw and it ran grand but one day in the middle of a cut it just stopped. when i started investigating it seems the point adjustment screw had loosened and the gap had gotten HUGE; also the nut connecting the condenser lead to the points case had loosened. obviously all the fault of the rebuilder for being a "nancy" when it came to snugging connectors and not using threadlock.
The EZ I'm currently working on is electronic ignition. I checked with an ohmmeter from the on/off switch to ground and it was grounded with the switch turned on. I disconnected the wire from the coil and measured from the terminal on the coil to ground and it was still grounded with the wire off. I'm assuming that's not how it's supposed to be..
The EZ I'm currently working on is electronic ignition. I checked with an ohmmeter from the on/off switch to ground and it was grounded with the switch turned on. I disconnected the wire from the coil and measured from the terminal on the coil to ground and it was still grounded with the wire off. I'm assuming that's not how it's supposed to be..
that sounds reasonable
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