Yep. The XL-12 takes the same seal on both sides of the saw according to the IPL. That's Homelite # 12282A. The SKF interchange utility shows that it crosses over to 6120 (which you can substitute a 2-lip 6119 for if ya want.................most 'modern' saw crank seals are 2-lip).
Put "12282a" in this utility and it'll spit out "Homelite" and "6120".
http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/popup_parts_lookup_457012.htm
The 6119 is .002" larger on the OD than the 6120, but I seriously doubt that it'd be an issue. Both are specified to fit a .875" bore.
http://www.skfextranet.com/Catalogs/457010/sealdetail.asp?s=6119
http://www.skfextranet.com/Catalogs/457010/sealdetail.asp?s=6120
According to the IPL's, the SXL-AO takes a different seal on the PTO side (Homelite #58308B) than the 12282A on the FW side.........................but I've seen where folks have said that the same seal can be used on both sides. I have also seen (in another seal interchange chart that I cannot find right now) that the National/Timken 253747 interchanges with the Homelite 58308B seal. Several charts show that SKF 6119 interchanges with the National 253747......................so we could use the "A=B, B=C, therefore A=C" logic to say that they're interchangeable. I haven't tried it
myself yet however. I did recently tear down an SXL-AO..................so I should measure the shaft diameters, housing bore diameters, and seal depths to make 100% sure that it CAN be done without issues. That's a project for next weekend methinks....
In any case, for Jerry's XL-12 question..............................the seals that Tim stated will indeed work on both sides. The SXL question will have to wait for another day unless somebody here already has the answer (and that
is highly likely). Jerry any XL-12 tank should work for your saw. The XL-Auto/SXL-AO/etc saw tanks will not work on your saw however.
Only thing you'll have to deal with (that I'm aware of) regarding the running production changes is that the fuel line size/type may be different. That's because the early XL-12 saws have the 'wick' tank pickups (with large copper fuel oultet tubes). These take 3/16" line. Later saws have a 'normal' in-tank like with a 'normal' clunk type filter. Those saws will either have a grommet in the 'pass thru' hole of the tank (with small diameter line passing through that grommet).............or a one-piece molded line with a 'fat' section that seals against the 'pass thru' hole. Both styles had identical tanks, and you can switch between the 'grommet' type and molded type line setups. Only real issue here is making sure that the fuel line size matches the barb on your carburetor.
Good news is that you do NOT need to remove the cylinder or split the crankcase from the drivecase on your saw to swap tanks. You do need to remove most everything else however. The three screws that hold the tank to the crankcase are under the points/coil bracket. Don't forget to disconnect the oil lines. You'll also have to remove the carb, intake manifold, carb box (remember those oil lines too), flywheel cover, flywheel, ignition parts, etc. Be prepared to deal with a LOT of 'saw cake' that will be tucked into all sorts of places.............especially under the FW cover, around the jug, and between the tank assembly and the crankcase....
