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I think the 330's are sharp looking unit. I've got a 360(35sl) giving me some heartache. Does the 330 have AV?

Lee

Yes the 330 has 3 anti vibe rubbers. I did change the one on top forward of the handle. NOS ebay and it was inexpensive. Many people complain about disassembling them (gas tank removal) But there is a trick to learn that makes them easy and predictable.
AV rubber, EI module, carb kit, carb boot, oiler diaphragm, new chain and it was good to go. At 12lb 8oz PHO it's 4 oz lighter than my XL-12.
 
Yes the 330 has 3 anti vibe rubbers. I did change the one on top forward of the handle. NOS ebay and it was inexpensive. Many people complain about disassembling them (gas tank removal) But there is a trick to learn that makes them easy and predictable.
AV rubber, EI module, carb kit, carb boot, oiler diaphragm, new chain and it was good to go. At 12lb 8oz PHO it's 4 oz lighter than my XL-12.
Hey DynoDave,

How do you rate it against the xl12 or the 3800?

Lee
 
650 cylinder /piston/rings etc NOS. can you even find a NOS one? if so how much is a realistic price for the set?
 
Many people complain about disassembling them (gas tank removal) But there is a trick to learn that makes them easy and predictable.

Please elaborate!!! I acquired two 330's a while ago in real decent shape that I hope to go through soon. Will take any help I can get since I've also heard they're tricky to tear down without also tearing your hair out!
 
Please elaborate!!! I acquired two 330's a while ago in real decent shape that I hope to go through soon. Will take any help I can get since I've also heard they're tricky to tear down without also tearing your hair out!
They're not that bad. I've torn down a few and it does take some time. If you forget something then you get to tear it down again! Mine is currently torn down because I chose not to change the rubber lines, then I changed my mind and decided to replace them. I'm waiting for a rim clutch sprocket which I ordered over the weekend. I also decided to clean the carb and lower the inlet lever because it was flooding a bit. Most of the 330s that people buy used are in need of the intake boot which most people dread to change. If you get stuck just post your problem here and someone will advise you, they know their Homelites!
 
Hey DynoDave,

How do you rate it against the xl12 or the 3800?

Lee
Im not Dave but I would much rather have an XL12 or Super XL over the 330. The XLs vibrate a bit but you can pad the handle which the factory did on the later ones. Both are harder to work on than the modern saws as far as I'm concerned but the XL12 and Super XL are virtually bulletproof and are still going strong after all these years.
 
Hey DynoDave,

How do you rate it against the xl12 or the 3800?

Lee
Sorry I only have excuses rather than a worthy comparison opinion for the XL-12 or 3800.

XL-12 (free from cousin Paul) needed a outer muffler cover as the original was rusted through from lack of use...my cousin bought a new sthil and parked the running XL-12 long ago. After I pullied the flywheel to clean the points for spark. It ran and made noise. I got a new outer muffler and had it copper/nickle plated at work... With the muffler off, I saw a not to deep trench across the back of the cylinder near the transfer port. Other than putting the shiney copper/nickle plated muffler on, I parked it for further mainenance.
At the same time I got the 330 muffler copper/nickle plated also, all maintenance items were accomlished sucessfully on the 330 and it is currently my main mid size saw.

3800(was 3400) needed lots of work. This project stalled quite a while back, I think I have all the parts, but I have the 330 to fill-in and have not finished the 3800.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/poulan-thread.98495/page-921

Now that the 7-19C and 707D are going, I will get back to working on the XL-12 and 3800. The 330 and my buddies husky 55 cut up 5-1/2 cords of red oak and a bit of maple. I just finished splitting and stacking it last weekend.
:chop:

:givebeer:
 
Please elaborate!!! I acquired two 330's a while ago in real decent shape that I hope to go through soon. Will take any help I can get since I've also heard they're tricky to tear down without also tearing your hair out!

It has been a while since I had it all the way down, but I clearly remember the gas tank sits in a "pocket" in the cases. I found if you pry the tank in the right direction it easily pops out of the pocket. It is very easy from then on. To reassemble, it's the reverse. I now knew what people b*t*h about....you go crazy if you don't make the tank come out of it berth.
 
I just picked up a XL-102. After testing - the points are good, the condenser tests ok on a multimeter, but the coil is shot.
I've done a search and it appears this coil is unobtainium. what other saws' coils might fit or what windings I might be able to fit on the core. Got any ideas?
 
I just picked up a XL-102. After testing - the points are good, the condenser tests ok on a multimeter, but the coil is shot.
I've done a search and it appears this coil is unobtainium. what other saws' coils might fit or what windings I might be able to fit on the core. Got any ideas?
anyone awake out there?
 
CSL/Joyce on HOH offered you one NOS... and there are currently 2 NOS available on ebay for $40 ea. Seems to be the same coil for an XL-123. Not unobtanium I'd guess, but if you're holding out for free then...I'm out of stock/never had any of those kind of saws......
 
yep. i'm aware of joyce's offer and also the nos on ebay. nice of you to point that out. free would be nice but don't figure that's gonna happen. holding out for alternative solutions. if you knew me you'd know i pinch pennies til they scream. also, i never take the beaten path. it'd be real simple to buy a new one but more satisfying to beat the saw. i may ultimately buy one but gonna try alternatives first. that's how i learn, how bout you?
 
No problem here with penny pinching. It depends totally on what you're after. I can say that a VOM will show a dead capacitor but will NOT prove a good cap. So you could still be holding out for the wrong thing. If you changed the cap with a know good one, well then OK.
I use a home made 0-1000VDC power supply with appropriate metering for "NO fooling around" testing of caps. School is always in session here even with 6 years of mechanical and electrical/electronic college, 20 year USAF radar career, and 20+ more years of physics and radar.
good luck
 
Jerry, I think it's got a bad tube.

umene6es.jpg



:). :)

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
hello, new here but, lurking around I got a case of homelite CAD. Here is my new big saw A homelite super xp 1020 auto 175psi compression I adapted a stihl 41" sprocket tip .404 .063 stihl chipper skip. The 404x8 sprocket pulls ok but I think I would be better off with a 404x7 just the keep the rpm up, my old IPL doesn't list a 404x7 for the 1020 auto here is some eye candy.

 
...and more on the XL 901...

I got the welch plug properly seated and tried that. It runs better but still not very good. I tried it first with the needle valve set as pictured above. It would only start on prime, but it would run for pretty good burst and then just die after about 8 seconds. It seemed like it was just running out of gas so I went back into the carb and raised the needle as to try to richer it up. It would not adjust out with the high speed jet so I figured I needed to do something with the needle setting.

After I raised the needle setting, it improved but still not good. At one turn open on the high speed screw, it would start after priming and run finally long enough for me to adjust it. Before adjusting it would run super rich so I slowly closed the screw. It would run really good, fast, and strong after I tightened the screw to like only 1/4 turn open. It would run as long as I had it wide open. If I let off the throttle to see if it would idle, it would just die. And I cannot get it to restart even with a prime at that high speed setting at 1/4 turn.

There are times it will start with the throttle lock on which is probably like at 1/4 throttle, but as soon as you try to open up the throttle it just dies. The low speed jet is set at 1 turn.

I am wondering if I have a messed up carb or got a bad diaphragm in the kit I put in. Any thoughts would be appreciated and my right arm would really appreciate you. Thanks!
finally...Finally...FINALLY!!! The 901 lives.

I took fossil's advice and found another carb for it on evilbay. I installed the new (used) carb. Wouldn't run right. Put a new kit in it and she runs, idles, and everything. I haven't had it in wood yet. For whatever reason, I just didn't solve the riddle of that original carb. Maybe that's why the old had been put on the shelf for retirement.

Here's a few things I learned from working so long on this old saw:
1) first off let me say I memorized the entire Johnny Western "Have Gun Will Travel" and Marty Robbins "Gunfighter Ballads" while working on this one. Kept me from going ballistic.
2) while starting this saw, the slightest bit of richness - not even actually flooded - will cause this saw to kick back. My elbow may hurt from now on.
3) a little bit of penetrating oil in the flywheel key way seems to helps the flywheel come off a lot easier
4) permeatex moto-seal is now my favorite fuel sealer
5) I'll probably be crucified for this but here it goes: an old saw with Phillips head screws holding the tank together with the inside of the tank completely petrified with screws so configured that you can't cut slots in the heads or do other tricks is perhaps best left alone to used for decoration or something.

So here's my next question: how big of a bar can this saw effectively pull? 77cc's with 138 psi compression cold. I need a saw with a larger bar to go with my gang of little saws. It came with a decent enough old 16" bar with the worn outest chain I've ever seen. I was thinking of a 26" bar. Your thoughts and recommendations please. Thanks!
 
finally...Finally...FINALLY!!! The 901 lives.

I took fossil's advice and found another carb for it on evilbay. I installed the new (used) carb. Wouldn't run right. Put a new kit in it and she runs, idles, and everything. I haven't had it in wood yet. For whatever reason, I just didn't solve the riddle of that original carb. Maybe that's why the old had been put on the shelf for retirement.

Here's a few things I learned from working so long on this old saw:
1) first off let me say I memorized the entire Johnny Western "Have Gun Will Travel" and Marty Robbins "Gunfighter Ballads" while working on this one. Kept me from going ballistic.
2) while starting this saw, the slightest bit of richness - not even actually flooded - will cause this saw to kick back. My elbow may hurt from now on.
3) a little bit of penetrating oil in the flywheel key way seems to helps the flywheel come off a lot easier
4) permeatex moto-seal is now my favorite fuel sealer
5) I'll probably be crucified for this but here it goes: an old saw with Phillips head screws holding the tank together with the inside of the tank completely petrified with screws so configured that you can't cut slots in the heads or do other tricks is perhaps best left alone to used for decoration or something.

So here's my next question: how big of a bar can this saw effectively pull? 77cc's with 138 psi compression cold. I need a saw with a larger bar to go with my gang of little saws. It came with a decent enough old 16" bar with the worn outest chain I've ever seen. I was thinking of a 26" bar. Your thoughts and recommendations please. Thanks!

I sure don't see why it wouldn't pull a 28" with no issues. Those saws have lots of torque! I have a 28" I should put on my 902AM which is very similar to your 901 and give it a whirl. I don't have anything that big the bury it in though. Maybe 24" at most.
Glad you got it going. It makes me feel better that HS carbs just don't despise me alone.
 
hello, new here but, lurking around I got a case of homelite CAD. Here is my new big saw A homelite super xp 1020 auto 175psi compression I adapted a stihl 41" sprocket tip .404 .063 stihl chipper skip. The 404x8 sprocket pulls ok but I think I would be better off with a 404x7 just the keep the rpm up, my old IPL doesn't list a 404x7 for the 1020 auto here is some eye candy.


Was there much involved in making the Stihl bar work?
 

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