Homelite Chainsaws

[sawnami]

Good grief man. That look like an amazing score. Would you happen to have an air filter cover with the knob for an xp1020 for sale?

Thanks!

Sorry but I don't have a clue right now. The number of parts has been a little overwhelming. I put most of it in storage to move and go through later after I get my shop built in the next couple of months. First I'm going to reduce my number of saws by 75-100.

 

[GeorgiaVol]

Well let me know please. That's the last piece I need to complete this ole Homelite

 

[67L36Driver]

If the Mono gets in your way, I can store it a spell.[emoji48]

 

[sawnami]

If the Mono gets in your way, I can store it a spell.[emoji48]

[emoji39] The AH-81 Model 7 is getting picked up Thursday Carl. I need to borrow some parts to complete the 35 that's never had gas in it from the two that came in the deal. The SL-245 is not something that I'll keep--already got two.

Sent from my SM-N910V

 

[Homelitenut]

Hey guys do any of y'all know if a A69487 is superseded by a A68487? apreciate the help!

 

[fossil]

I'm curious where the A 69487 PN came up. I can't search that out in any of the IPL's?

 

[ray benson]

I'm curious where the A 69487 PN came up. I can't search that out in any of the IPL's?

I have a pdf dated 1977 and a hardcopy dated 1980 both are superceded parts lists.
Only numbers that I see
67874-1 is 69736
67874-3 is 69737

A little checking.
https://store.chainsawr.com/products/homelite-super-ez-auto-chainsaw-piston-kit-a-68487-new
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOMELITE-SU...16-BORE-REPLACE-PART-A69487-NEW-/181782207251
http://www.ebay.com/itm/homelite-pi...ock-A-67874-/322061351096?hash=item4afc5a38b8

But I don't know if they are all interchangeable, and I wonder what is the latest "Superceded Parts List"?

 

[undee70ss]

Hey guys do any of y'all know if a A69487 is superseded by a A68487? apreciate the help!

What saw does A69487 suppose to fit?

 

[chainsawlady]

Hey guys do any of y'all know if a A69487 is superseded by a A68487? apreciate the help!

I have a-68487 piston. Also 69467 is a piston. no record of 69487.
chainsawlady

 

[fossil]

I saw a few pistons listed as A69487. A new Super EZ/ EZ after market one and a 68487 piston box listed for sale as a 69487.

Could just be a seller typo's.

I wondered of the "L" ring piston has a different PN than the two ring A 68487 piston.

 

[Homelitenut]

I'm curious where the A 69487 PN came up. I can't search that out in any of the IPL's?

What saw does A69487 suppose to fit?

Supposedly a super ez auto.

I have a-68487 piston. Also 69467 is a piston. no record of 69487.
chainsawlady

Ok thanks I was wandering whether or not it was a typo in the ad sounds like it is.

I saw a few pistons listed as A69487. A new Super EZ/ EZ after market one and a 68487 piston box listed for sale as a 69487.

Could just be a seller typo's.

I wondered of the "L" ring piston has a different PN than the two ring A 68487 piston.

I'm leaning towards it being a a typo also.
Thanks y'all apreciate the help!

 

[Hoggwood]

I am wondering if anyone has some old Tillotson info on HS carb series applications. I have a saw with a worn (oblong) throttle shaft/bore. Runs well, new seals etc., but did notice the idle would lean at times if I blipped the throttle and it shifted in the bore. I have a couple of carbs that could swap in. Linkage, fuel inlet, needles all in the correct location. I've a HS-104A and a HS-131B. The venturi on the 104 is 15.9mm and the 131, 14.3m. Both are from Terry issue saw carcasses. 131 is from a 9xx series and the 104 from a 1xx series. 131 strikes me as being small for the 9xx, but IDK if it were actually OEM at that size or swapped at one point. I am thinking that 14.3mm would be more in line with the xl-12 series.

The worn carb is a HS-67A from 902. 15.9mm. FWIW, I am attempting to build up the worn shaft with JB-weld and will turn it down. Just for kicks.

Tillotson doesn't appear to list info on those carbs/applications anymore. At least, that I can find.

Thanks folks.

 

[67L36Driver]

I've successfully swapped an HS from a Remington into a Lombard by changing out the throttle and choke shafts. Both were saws were mid sixty cc displacement.

 

[boone0]

Just picked up a running super XL automatic oiler. I have a duckbill ordered. Needs a fuel filter. Gonna tear it down and clean it up, so I figure I'll replace the fuel lines while I am at it. Two questions:

1. Will any generic fuel filter for 2 stroke engines work?
2. What size fuel line do I need?

Not sure if it's adequately oiling, I know some oil is coming out but this is the first saw ive owned so I am not sure if it is enough.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[fossil]

I am wondering if anyone has some old Tillotson info on HS carb series applications. I have a saw with a worn (oblong) throttle shaft/bore. Runs well, new seals etc., but did notice the idle would lean at times if I blipped the throttle and it shifted in the bore. I have a couple of carbs that could swap in. Linkage, fuel inlet, needles all in the correct location. I've a HS-104A and a HS-131B. The venturi on the 104 is 15.9mm and the 131, 14.3m. Both are from Terry issue saw carcasses. 131 is from a 9xx series and the 104 from a 1xx series. 131 strikes me as being small for the 9xx, but IDK if it were actually OEM at that size or swapped at one point. I am thinking that 14.3mm would be more in line with the xl-12 series.

The worn carb is a HS-67A from 902. 15.9mm. FWIW, I am attempting to build up the worn shaft with JB-weld and will turn it down. Just for kicks.

Tillotson doesn't appear to list info on those carbs/applications anymore. At least, that I can find.

Thanks folks.

I did that with the shaft on my 902. I wanted to see if that was the only problem with the carb. It did work but I didn't think it would last.
I ordered a new shaft from Joyce. The other carbs will work fine. I'm not sure how much they will affect power. I think she had more on hand but I can't be sure.
If you don't have her contact info I can give it to you or you can PM her. She goes by chainsawlady.

 

[fossil]

Just picked up a running super XL automatic oiler. I have a duckbill ordered. Needs a fuel filter. Gonna tear it down and clean it up, so I figure I'll replace the fuel lines while I am at it. Two questions:

1. Will any generic fuel filter for 2 stroke engines work?
2. What size fuel line do I need?

Not sure if it's adequately oiling, I know some oil is coming out but this is the first saw ive owned so I am not sure if it is enough.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Any generic fuel filter will work


It depends whether of not you have a molded fuel line or if you have grommets at the fuel tank pass through and the air box pass through.

If you have the grommets, I think the OD on the fuel line needs to be 1/4" OD. Normally Tygon would be used. 1/4" OD. X 1/8" ID

As far as the oil output goes, you should be able to see a fine spray coming off the end of the bar when you rev the saw up. Hold the bar tip close to a surface that will allow you to see the oil landing on it.

 

[Hoggwood]

I did that with the shaft on my 902. I wanted to see if that was the only problem with the carb. It did work but I didn't think it would last.
I ordered a new shaft from Joyce. The other carbs will work fine. I'm not sure how much they will affect power. I think she had more on hand but I can't be sure.
If you don't have her contact info I can give it to you or you can PM her. She goes by chainsawlady.

Thanks Tim.

I started by swapping one complete carb in. I had to really lean it out idle properly. 1/2 on the L. Didn't seem right it should be that little. Throttled fine, though. So, I swapped the throttle rod off of another HS back onto the original carb and put it back on the saw. Much tighter. Ran a few cuts and had a hard time starting it again. Stream of bubbles in tank. That was even after I removed the pump plate off the carb and pulled the line out of the fuel??? I didn't pay attention when I had this apart to recall if the tank and crankcase share a common gasket.

One thing I have noticed about these HS carbs is some have an air port of sorts that leads directly to the idle circuit from the rear flange. I cannot find how/what it does in the documentation. SDC's carry the air bleed hole and this seems similar. No screens on them and they pass compressed cleaner readily into the idle ports. I have two carbs pictured for reference - one with and one without the port drilled into the lower left shown by screwdriver. When I swapped a different carb onto the saw, it had that port in the casting. Must have been really drawing fuel on the L?? The original carb does not have that port and it tuned out at about 1 L and 1 1/8 H.

Any idea how these ports function? The one off of the 9xx carcass has the port. The one off the 902 does not.

 

[boone0]

Thank you. It looks like I just have a hole in the fuel tank, no grommets. Is there a generic line I can use or do I have to buy an OEM replacement? The line looks good and doesn't leak but while I have the saw apart I'd rather just replace it.

I am sure this has been answered before, but I wasn't able to figure it out after a bunch of searching.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[fossil]

Hi Cory,

The tank gasket just takes in the the fuel and oil tanks. I'm not sure about the extra hole in the carb. I have noticed them but never stopped to think about them. Is the hole on a governed carb?
If you are seeing bubbles in the gas tank, Ill bet you are boiling the fuel. Make sure the gap between the engine case and the fuel tank is clear and clean. That could certainly cause a vapour lock issue.
I know gas can boil at temps < 100F. If your 902 is the same as mine, the tank is vented via a metal cased vent that is in the air box and screwed through a hole into the tank. I think they changed that somewhere in the run.
Tank pressure id important.

Sorry I can't be of much help.

 

[fossil]

Thank you. It looks like I just have a hole in the fuel tank, no grommets. Is there a generic line I can use or do I have to buy an OEM replacement? The line looks good and doesn't leak but while I have the saw apart I'd rather just replace it.

I am sure this has been answered before, but I wasn't able to figure it out after a bunch of searching.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

If the existing line isn't too soft and is in good shape you should be able to use it until you get replacement parts

You could use grommets if you wanted as they came with both molded and grommets with straight fuel line. The holes in the tank and the air box should be 3/8" opening with a material thickness (tank) of 1/8". Buy grommets that are 3/8" hole thickness X 1/8" panel thickness with a 1/4" hole in them. The fuel line would be 1/4" OD x 1/8" ID Tygon line. You could also buy a molded line. I think they still make them but I'm not sure. You may have to soften the Tygon line to get it onto the carb fuel line barb. Use a heat gun or hot water. If you use a heat gun be sure not to apply too much heat as it will melt the line.
I grease up the grommets and push them in place with something blunt like a popsicle stick. You can feed the line up through the tank by cutting a taper on the end of the Tygon line. Feed a wire through the pass through in the tank and out the fill hole and attach that to the tapered end of the line Pull the line through the grommet.

Also pull the oil line out and make sure it's in good shape and the pick up screen is clean. You can access the oil line by removing the large slot head screw just behind the oil fill hole.