Homelite Chainsaws

[Homelitexl903]

Not an old mechanics expert or a saw expert. But heres my random thoughts on what's happening. Have you tried to lube the old piston and jug with oil? Have you checked the old fuel lines and carb for cracks or pin holes? Lube and fuel lines and maybe a carb kit might be your best option

 

[Hoggwood]

Just got a super XL automatic. Looks pretty good now that it's cleaned up. It wants to start, but only fires a little. Never had one this old. It's got a thumb pump for killing the bar. Lol. Lol its like trying to drop crank a concrete block. Talk to me friends I'm gonna need your help.

I usually do the following.


Pull the plug and spray some lubricant in the cylinder turning it over a few times to make sure the flywheel/piston turn freely. WD-40 is fine. Pull the cover on the muffler and visually inspect the piston and cylinder while turning it over. While at it, check for spark. Turn off the ignition and crank it hard several times with the carb choked. If the pump is soft enough and the carb isn't varnished up, it may be enough to get the fuel moving. See if air/fuel mix is being ejected at the spark plug hole. If it sat with fuel in the tank, the factory line is likely gone. If you've no fuel line you can try dropping a small splash of fuel down the carb or in the spark plug hole.

If you've got spark and fuel is moving through the carb it may start. Try 1 1/4 on both L and H. Pretty easy saws to pull the carb from and re-kit. Given the length of time it has sat, new filter, fuel line and carb kit are a given. If the diaphragms in the carb are a bit stiff, you can soften them up by soaking/rubbing in a mixture. I've used methyl hydrate and Seafoam/PB blaster at a ratio of 1:5 for a couple of hours at a time. A short term solution at best. But, it does really soften them up in a hurry.

If it pops like you are suggesting, you may need to repeatedly choke/pop/re-choke +full throttle/pop...etc to find out if it can pull enough fuel to run on its own. Do this with the saw on the ground.

 

[fossil]

A few things I always go through on most of the old Homelites.

Change out the fuel line and filter. If the saw has sat for that long they will be rotten or even rotted off.

I always put a carb kit in it. The saws I have use a Tillotson HS carb. Yours may have one of those or maybe a Walbro SDC or a Zama carb.

The oiler system is often plugged up. The manual oiler almost always works unless the compression fittings on the copper tubes have been over tightened causing the oiler to suck air. Remove the oiler pick up by removing the large slot head screw behind the oil tank fill hole. Check the line to make sure it's OK and clean the screen on the end of the oil line.
Pull off the copper oil lines and blow them out. Don't over tighten the tube compression fittings. Just snug them up.

Pull off the starter cover and clean all the crud out of the cylinder fins and blow out the gap between the fuel tank and the crankcase or the fuel will boil.

There is a duckbill valve in the fuel cap under the sintered brass vent. Pry the sintered vent out with an awl or small screwdriver, clean out the black crud in there with a Q-tip and replace the duck bill valve.

Pull the muffler off to make sure the piston and cylinder aren't scored and clean any carbon build up out of the exhaust port with something soft like a popsicle stick. Don't let the carbon fall into the cylinder.

A work of caution. Do not start the saw with the clutch assembly in place unless the bar and chain are on it. The clutches have a nasty habit of unscrewing themselves and leaving the saw at hi speed.

IF there is a label still on the saw, copy down the UT number on the tag and post it up. I will find the correct IPL if I can. I will send you a link the Homelite repair manual in a PM.

The order in which you do these is up to you. I would clean it all up first and check the piston and cylinder condition through the exhaust port first.

I see Cory beat me to it. Good points there.

 

[Hoggwood]

Tim, you always cover the fine details well. No manual needed.

 

[JonCraig]

A work of caution. Do not start the saw with the clutch assembly in place unless the bar and chain are on it. The clutches have a nasty habit of unscrewing themselves and leaving the saw at hi speed.

Ask me and my Super XL 925 how I know he's right...

 

[fossil]

Ask me and my Super XL 925 how I know he's right...

You are certainly not alone by any stretch. Homelites and Poulans or anything with a thread on clutch spider. A Holy shite moment for sure.

 

[Blisters]

You are certainly not alone by any stretch. Homelites and Poulans or anything with a thread on clutch spider. A Holy shite moment for sure.

Thanks guys. I'm gonna start Thursday. Tomorrows church night. Posting pics in my album.

 

[Blisters]

Thanks guys. I'm gonna start Thursday. Tomorrows church night. Posting pics in my album.

It's a Zama. Cylinder looks smooth, top of piston looks cruddy but OK, someone replaced fuel line not too long ago feels soft and flexable. Was put away no fuel in tank. Belong to a man's dad at werk. Replaced fuel line still wouldn't crank. So he bought a new one. Who knows how long ago.

 

[fossil]

Does it have decent spark? If there is some maybe a new plug would help.

 

[Goose IBEW]

100 mile trip this evening to pick up this 7-29 barn find. The guy threw in the Super 2 for a few bucks extra. Took the girlfriend to Cracker Barrel for dinner afterwards. The guy thought it was seized. It's not seized, it just has that much compression.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Tim, you always cover the fine details well. No manual needed.

Both of you always, (well, usually ), offer great and helpful info. Couple o' the good guys for sure.

 

[fossil]

Thanks Poge.

Are you OK? (Just kidding)

 

[Blisters]

How much is that super XL automatic worth? I want to know if I got burnt or got a fair deal? It's a 79 model.

 

[Blisters]

How much is that super XL automatic worth? I want to know if I got burnt or got a fair deal? It's a 79 model.

I posted pics last night in my album. (Nate's pics)

 

[fossil]

Around me a runner that was in fairly good shape would easily bring $75 to $100.

It could be a totally different value down your way. The old saw market is a volatile one.

 

[fossil]

How much is that super XL automatic worth? I want to know if I got burnt or got a fair deal? It's a 79 model.

I posted pics last night in my album. (Nate's pics)

I think that saw is later than 1979. I can't read the serial number in the pic. The serial number can be used to date the saw to the day.

 

[67L36Driver]

Post the UT number.

I'll look it up on my cheat sheet. I can't do it on my phone.

 

[Blisters]

Post the UT number.

I'll look it up on my cheat sheet. I can't do it on my phone.

10-4 I'll get it when I get home, I'm still at werk. I was thinking it was older too. I have a 360 XL from late 70s and a super 2 at my dad's back in Tn. They look nuthin like this beast of a saw. Dad says he thinks he burnt up my super2 if he did I'm gonna be upset. I love that lil saw. Are parts still available for that fairly easy?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Thanks Poge.

Are you OK? (Just kidding)

LOL

The heat must be gettin' to me.

 

[Blisters]

Post the UT number.

I'll look it up on my cheat sheet. I can't do it on my phone.

Homelight 10045-6
S # is 2g1430034
That's all thats on the tag.