https://www.ebay.com/itm/351751661281
Another antivibe SEZ.
Another antivibe SEZ.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
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Picked up a Timberman 45cc saw the other day, came with a couple of Poulan 3400s (both with chain brakes). I heard that they were pretty well crap but this one seems OK for a home owner type saw starts and runs well, although not in wood as yet. I broke one of the muffler bolts taking the muffler off to see the piston which is in great shape. Bolts are pretty weasly (thin). I beleive these are Chinese. Can't complain as I only paid $40 CDN for all three.
sawnami
Addicted to ArboristSite
What's the difference between a Super Mini S and a Super Mini SL?
Sent from my SM-N910V
Sent from my SM-N910V
Those from your big Homelite score?What's the difference between a Super Mini S and a Super Mini SL?
Sent from my SM-N910V
AFAIK, the chain brake is a canuk thing. The antivibe, I dunno.[emoji848]
SL I believe stand for chain brake. The chain brake on those in the pic look very similar to one that I have off an XL130
5/16" combination wrench works well.
Remove the fuel line from the carb.
Remove the choke rod from the carb and pull it back out of the way (no need to pull it out of the carb box).
Back the carb attach screws all the way back. You will need to hold these in when removing the carb.
If the grommet that the carb mix needles go through is really hard, back the high and low mix screws out and either pull them through the grommet with the help of some lube or pull them back as far as they will go. MAKE SURE YOU DON'T HIT THE END OF THE MIX SCREWS AND DAMAGE THEM.
Carefully pull the carb back, (it may need a little gentle persuasion if the gaskets are stuck)
Twist the carb slightly to get the throttle rod out of the carb and lift the carb out.
Maybe not the way most guys do it but I've found that the easiest way for me.
The hard grommet rubber that the needles go through can make it a pain to get out and even worse to get it back in with the mix screws in place.
Blisters
ArboristSite Operative
So if I understand you right. It would be best to remove the mixing screws completely if possible? Note the turns first right?
Also how much compression should I have? I got 125psi that feels kinda low to me?
Also how much compression should I have? I got 125psi that feels kinda low to me?
Blisters
ArboristSite Operative
A guy I was talking to told me that I could try a short pice of fuel line and a squeeze bottle with some seafoam in it to fill up the carb, and let it sit overnight before pulling the carb. Is this a good idea? I wouldn't mind trying it on a newer saw. I don't know much about these oldies.
backhoelover
Free service manuals and service tool info
i would just go ahead and go through the carb. if the diaphragms are hard seafoam will not help
Blisters
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks man.
I tend to remove/reinstall the carburetor with the needles in place. I just prefer to have the carb set up off of the saw.
If you go this route, have the mounting bolts in the assembled carb but not proud of the rear. You cannot get the bottom one in after if you forget. They're too long. Lube up the holes and needles. WD-40 + some grease. Slide the needles/carb with bolts into the grommet until the bolts line up with the intake block. I pre-set the gasket with grease and stick it to the insulator block. Work the bolts through the gasket holes. Bolt on the carb. Not too tight as the insulator blocks can crack. The linkage can easily be fit to the carb after with needle nose pliers and a twist. Fuel line with pliers. Cut some wood.
In addition, I tend to wet all my carb cover and intake gaskets with WD-40. Don't know if it really makes a difference, but I do like a good seal.
sawnami
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah, Carl, they were in that stuff. Got several VI saws. Have a bunch of rubber isolaters to go through in the parts inventory that I got from the same deal. It's going to be my winter project.
Sent from my SM-N910V
Service Manual says optimum cylinder pressure should be 130-155 engine hot. The kind of tester your using may effect your pressure readings. Automotive testers usually read low on small engines.
Blisters
ArboristSite Operative
Is there a average of how low maybe? That's cold, cause it won't crank. Just pops off.
Have you pulled the muffler off to see if the piston and cylinder are scored or not?
Blisters
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah. Looks good other than just crud.
Put a kit in the carb. A good reference point on most of the older saws is 1 turn out from lightly seated on both high and low mixture screws when you put the kit in.
Compression gauges can be off by quite a bit.
Try Cory's way first to pull the carb. His sounds easier than mine.
Per service manual, engine needs to be serviced at 90 psi. At 125 psi it should run. How old is saw? Points or solid state ignition? Start with a new plug gapped at .025. Sounds like you have fuel issues. After you rebuild carb and replace filter and line, leave the gas cap cracked open when trying to start saw. If the tank is not vented, fuel has a hard time reaching the carb. ( especially with a full tank). This eliminates one fuel issue possibility.
