Homelite Chainsaws

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Does anyone know what the compression on a lighty used or rebuilt Homelite Super EZ is? I saw one on Ebay and the seller claimed 194psi.
 
It is -12 C outside, heavyweight bar oil and it wears a chipper chain. Cuts like a champ and still pumps the oil. I have some gnarly chunks of cherry and fir that need breaking down. I've put the splitting maul away for the winter and I am not getting it out again.

All of mine in this series have really good compression. Especially the super mini versions. With a gasket delete, they are mini muscle.

Splitting Buddy 2.jpg
 
It is -12 C outside, heavyweight bar oil and it wears a chipper chain. Cuts like a champ and still pumps the oil. I have some gnarly chunks of cherry and fir that need breaking down. I've put the splitting maul away for the winter and I am not getting it out again.

All of mine in this series have really good compression. Especially the super mini versions. With a gasket delete, they are mini muscle.

View attachment 544025
Just curious which models you have?

I have a SEZ and Super Mini. I haven't ran them head to head but it seems the SEZ has a bit more power.
 
Hey guys. Have to decide what project saw goes onto the bench next, either the SXL or the XL-103.

On paper they seem pretty similar except for the 103 being quite a bit lighter. How do they compare powerwise?
 
Just curious which models you have?

I have a SEZ and Super Mini. I haven't ran them head to head but it seems the SEZ has a bit more power.

I have few later (red) XL-1's, an early XL-1 (blue) that I just completed a conversion on (few pages back) and several of the Super Mini. The cylinders with the decompression valve tend to have more compression. That is, the Super Mini machines. I am not sure why. The XL-1's were the bare bones models. Auto oiler only and no decomp.

There is variation in compression across them all though. The blue one I just converted to a Super Mini top end with gasket delete pulls very well.

I am pretty certain the engineers at Homelite squeezed as much out of these saws as possible. Hot rods from the factory. Standard 3/8", full house on a 16" at 2.5 cubes. One of my Supers has a rim assembly. I am going to convert it to 0.325". It should be fun.
 
I have few later (red) XL-1's, an early XL-1 (blue) that I just completed a conversion on (few pages back) and several of the Super Mini. The cylinders with the decompression valve tend to have more compression. That is, the Super Mini machines. I am not sure why. The XL-1's were the bare bones models. Auto oiler only and no decomp.

There is variation in compression across them all though. The blue one I just converted to a Super Mini top end with gasket delete pulls very well.

I am pretty certain the engineers at Homelite squeezed as much out of these saws as possible. Hot rods from the factory. Standard 3/8", full house on a 16" at 2.5 cubes. One of my Supers has a rim assembly. I am going to convert it to 0.325". It should be fun.
Interesting stuff.

Both of my saws have decompression valves. The SEZ has points, the Mini has electronic.
 
I am pretty certain the engineers at Homelite squeezed as much out of these saws as possible. Hot rods from the factory. Standard 3/8", full house on a 16" at 2.5 cubes. One of my Supers has a rim assembly. I am going to convert it to 0.325". It should be fun.

the neighbor's has same b/c. if you recall, I was havin all kinds o fun tryin to tune it. got free seized parts saw. carb swap fixed it.
 
the neighbor's has same b/c. if you recall, I was havin all kinds o fun tryin to tune it. got free seized parts saw. carb swap fixed it.

I remember that one. Good on having another carb. I have had issues a couple of times with the capillary style checks common on some Walbros. Sometimes checking, sometimes not. Slow to return and idle wandering. Not fun to replace the checks. But, they sure solved the problems.

You still have any parts off of that saw? I had the end of piston in one of the auto oilers snap off. Odd.
 
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