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I'm not sure yet, it seems to be pushing oil when I turn the gear manually. But its not pumping when on the saw.
 
Where are those located? How flush does the worm drive need to sit on the pump? It doesnt seem to want to sit flush. It sticks out about 1/8" or so.
 
:laugh:

Oilers just hate me dont they? :(

I didn't want to say that but it crossed my mind.
Not sure if you have a repair manual but I'll send you a link via a PM. Oiler is on Pg B64 I think.

I would be checking the oil lines to make sure they aren't split or have a hole in them, clean the filters and blow out the oil passages at the pump mounting surface. Sometimes they get blocked up with crud over the years, especially if they've sat for a long period of time
 
Guess I'll start with blowing the passages. The hoses look alright. The pick up screens look okay. Of course I cant see the entire way back to the automatic line, just the pickup tip. It's not broken, but it could be cracked. I don't even know how I'd get in there to replace the line if it was.
 
Just a thought but do the oiling holes in your bar line up with the oil orifice. If it looks like it's pushing oil when turned should pump when on the saw.

Yes, they line up, it oils with the manual oiler just fine. One side of the pump was dry when I took it off, so it wasnt pushing oil through. Maybe I can test it if I take the worn out after screwing the pump back on and filling the tank with oil then spinning the pump by hand to see if it comes out at the bar? Would that work?
 
Started tearing my free-to-me Super 2 down. I haven't got the flywheel off yet. I really need a small jaw puller. And some smarts when using it. It is a bit of a pain. Still trying to figure out how to get the oiler adjuster out. I haven't had time to really look at it.
 
Rather than a 3 jaw puller, I think you would be far better off buying a steering wheel puller. Use the starter pawl screw holes and the appropriate screws
with some fender washers to pull it. Get some tension on it and if it doesn't pop off use a piece of wood and a hammer give the flywheel a smack on the off side of the magnets while the puller has it under tension. Don't hit the magnets or fins.
I assume you have the motor out of the case.
puller.jpg
 
I use two large screwdrivers between the crankcase and the back of the flywheel. Pry with them gently, rocking from one to the other so the flywheel tips a little. Careful or the crank can be damaged. Never had any problem, always got them off. Photo shows the method being used to extract a bearing from a drive case. If it is stubborn, turn the wheel 90 degrees and try again. It works because the fit is never perfect between the shaft and the wheel. It normally takes much less force than using a puller, in my experience. There is no risk to the threads on the shaft.
 

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