Homelite Chainsaws

[Hoggwood]

So its not solid state ignition then? Or is that what solid state is? Does that mean CJ6Y or CJ6? My head is spinning now.

Pull the starter cover. It should look like this setup given the date undee70ss provided. 3-piece indicates from - left to right - a module under the flywheel (hidden), a generator (adjacent to the FW) and a transformer (High tension plug wire). Solid state. If so, CJ6 (or CJ4 if you want a cooler plug...but forget about that).

This is a picture of Tim's (Fossil) posted on another site.

 

[Ginger15]

That is indeed what it looks like. I just thought solid state meant a 1 piece ignition like a coil. So cj6 or cj6y will work depending on what i can find in town?

 

[fossil]

I think Homie calls the single piece module the solid state ignition and the three piece the capacitor discharge ignition.

Not trying to confuse things. I don't doubt either plug will work fine.

 

[Hoggwood]

I think Homie calls the single piece module the solid state ignition and the three piece the capacitor discharge ignition.

Not trying to confuse things. I don't doubt either plug will work fine.

Correct on the terminology Tim.

I don't know why they would suggest a plug that has a extended tip on the solid state. Lower current/potential at the plug? I don't know spark plug performance too well. I gather the extended tip on the cj6y would be further into the combustion chamber. By design, perhaps it will tend to build up less over time and give that little bit of advance on detonation. Compression ought to go up a bit as well. I know on my 902 that got a used top-end, I wondered how close the cj6y electrode would get to the piston when I neglected the base gasket. I opted for the shorter cj6. Maybe one day I'll index a cj6y in it and see if I notice a difference.

 

[buzz sawyer]

I have 20 NOS homelite seals that fit the original EZ and similar saws - part # 71597. Rubber is soft and pliable, no rust. Requires two on each side of the crank - see photo. What are they worth?

 

[fossil]

I'm not so sure either. I figure as long as the plug isn't too hot and the saw is firing well, all is good. I run mostly CJ7's and CJ8's in stuff. I will use resistor plugs of the same variety as well with no change in performance that I can tell.


Some info here from NGK. Interesting reading
http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/tech-info-spark-plugs.cfm

and this

The tip configuration of the plug refers to its 'projection' - that is the amount that the central electrode and, to some extent, the ceramic insulator of the central electrode, protrudes from the threaded shell of the spark plug. A projected plug will normally offer more efficient combustion, but beware, too much projection can promote plug damage and subsequent engine damage as well as the possibility of making physical contact with piston crowns and valves (which is also likely to cause plug/engine damage).

We have categorised plugs as being:

1. Recessed - the firing tip is entirely within the threaded shell, offering extreme protection for racing engines, good vibration resistance but prone to fouling.
2. Non projected - the tip of the centre electrode is more or less level with the end of the threaded shell. The ground electrode protrudes from the end of the shell but is relatively short and therefore provides good vibration resistance and good thermal conductivity from the electrode tip. We normally also categorise surface discharge types as non projected.
3. Projected - centre electrode and it's insulator protrude from the threaded shell to some extent (usually around 1.5mm). This means the tip is more exposed to the combustion process and tends to keep cleaner, it also means that the spark is produced in a position closer to the centre of the combustion chamber - where the greatest efficiency can usually be achieved.
4. Extra projected - same as projected but projected further. This could be anything from 2.5mm to 10mm or more. These plugs are normally designed for specific applications and use in other applications is highly likely to result in engine damage. Not recommended unless explicitly listed as suitable by the engine or spark plug manufacturer. A non threaded 'shroud' section is sometimes included at the end of the thread to afford some protection to the otherwise exposed insulator.

 

[Ginger15]

Both of my 925s Have air filter covers that say solid state ignition. One has the 3 piece ignition so is it not a solid state unit? That unit i think is 1980(trashed p&c), made in canada as well but a much different serieal. I can grab a photo of it if anyone wants. I havent torn down the other(which is the one that works and im replacing the plug on). I have one ngk bpm7a plug on me and i ordered both a cj6 and cj6y plug. At 2$ ill try them all and if someone wants me to do a compression test with all 3 id be happy to once i find time and rent a tester.

 

[Ginger15]

Im looking at my other homelite saws on acres and it says they use either dj6j or dj7j. Which are all tapered. Thats the homelite 410 and EZ. I havent pulled the plugs as of late but is this correct? Maybe ill pull them tomorrow and look.

 

[ML12]

I finally got the 17 running right, had to swap on an HL carb to get around the HP, and then had issues with tuning, turns out the 1 turn out on Hi/Lo is way too much fuel, runs really good at about 1/2 turn out on both. Its so loud. Also man does that chain go slowly, I'm certain you can almost see each cutter go by at WOT.





Also if anyone has a cylinder/spark plug cover for it please let me know. I'd really like to avoid buying a NOS one that someone doing a restoration needs more than me. Any condition, banged up, cracked, corroded doesn't matter to me.

 

[brandonstc6]

I finally got the 17 running right, had to swap on an HL carb to get around the HP, and then had issues with tuning, turns out the 1 turn out on Hi/Lo is way too much fuel, runs really good at about 1/2 turn out on both. Its so loud. Also man does that chain go slowly, I'm certain you can almost see each cutter go by at WOT.

View attachment 576697

View attachment 576698

Also if anyone has a cylinder/spark plug cover for it please let me know. I'd really like to avoid buying a NOS one that someone doing a restoration needs more than me. Any condition, banged up, cracked, corroded doesn't matter to me.

Does it use the same cover a zip? I can get a zip cover I think.


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[2broke2ride]

I have 20 NOS homelite seals that fit the original EZ and similar saws - part # 71597. Rubber is soft and pliable, no rust. Requires two on each side of the crank - see photo. What are they worth?

Are these for the small ez and super ez?
Like this

If so, I don't know what they're worth but I'd take 2 off your hands for the ez I have on the bench right now.
Let me know
Kevin

 

[ML12]

Does it use the same cover a zip? I can get a zip cover I think

I think it should be the same.

 

[brandonstc6]

I think it should be the same.

Alright, is it easy to get off. If so I can't get you one tomorrow from the scrap yard. It will rough but I think at least one of the two should be solid enough


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[undee70ss]

I think it should be the same.

They are not the same, at least by part#

 

[svk]

Hey guys, is there something that make the EZ-250 more desirable than the standard SEZ? I've seen them sell for quite a bit more.

 

[undee70ss]

Hey guys, is there something that make the EZ-250 more desirable than the standard SEZ? I've seen them sell for quite a bit more.

They are quite rare, only made for 2 years. They had several new features that were not found on any saws at the time. First was a automatic chain tensioner. Second was a tachometer, a piece of wire that would swing when the idle speed was correct. They do take a special bar and parts that are unique to the EZ250.

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[svk]

Ah ha!

 

[buzz sawyer]

Are these for the small ez and super ez?
Like this

If so, I don't know what they're worth but I'd take 2 off your hands for the ez I have on the bench right now.
Let me know
Kevin

No, these are for the big saws in the '50s. like these : Homelite 71597 Crankshaft Seal NOS 4-20, 5-20, 5-30N, 6-22, 7-19, 17, 20MCS. I would check the ipl for the saw to be sure.

 

[2broke2ride]

No problem, thanks anyway[emoji106]

 

[ML12]

Alright, is it easy to get off. If so I can't get you one tomorrow from the scrap yard. It will rough but I think at least one of the two should be solid enough

Did you end up finding one?