Homelite Chainsaws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Would that be causing a fuel problem?.. Has lock tite on it, so I guess nonadjustable? Thanks Tim


The governors are hard to get out. You need to make sure the screwdriver tip fits the slot in the brass governor well or you'll wreck the slot. I generally remove the choke rod to get a straight shot at it.
Typically, if they are messed up they will dump fuel all the time and the saw will have mix puking out the muffler making it impossible to tune the high side.

Another couple of issues somewhat common in my experience is a worn throttle shaft which lets more air into the carb at different positions which makes the high side impossible to tune. If that's the case, the brass shaft is generally worn and the shaft bore in the carb body is OK so you can replace the rod.

The other is a damaged or plugged up main nozzle check valve. There are two types used on he HS carbs. One is a capillary screen and little rubber flap for a check valve and the other is a one piece brass check valve.
To tell which one it is, have a look under the metering diaphragm at the carb body If there's two welch plugs you have the capillary type which is under the small welch plug. If there's one welch plug and what looks like a brass plug, you have the self contained type.

I think the brass one extends into the venturi but can't remember.

If you can't get the governor out, the fuel dump passage to the governor is in the metering needle well on the side where the metering needle shaft hold down screw is. I suppose you could plug that as a cure if you narrow it down to the governor.
 
The governors are hard to get out. You need to make sure the screwdriver tip fits the slot in the brass governor well or you'll wreck the slot. I generally remove the choke rod to get a straight shot at it.
Typically, if they are messed up they will dump fuel all the time and the saw will have mix puking out the muffler making it impossible to tune the high side.

Another couple of issues somewhat common in my experience is a worn throttle shaft which lets more air into the carb at different positions which makes the high side impossible to tune. If that's the case, the brass shaft is generally worn and the shaft bore in the carb body is OK so you can replace the rod.

The other is a damaged or plugged up main nozzle check valve. There are two types used on he HS carbs. One is a capillary screen and little rubber flap for a check valve and the other is a one piece brass check valve.
To tell which one it is, have a look under the metering diaphragm at the carb body If there's two welch plugs you have the capillary type which is under the small welch plug. If there's one welch plug and what looks like a brass plug, you have the self contained type.

I think the brass one extends into the venturi but can't remember.

If you can't get the governor out, the fuel dump passage to the governor is in the metering needle well on the side where the metering needle shaft hold down screw is. I suppose you could plug that as a cure if you narrow it down to the governor.
That is just way good information..now for the major problem at hand... ME!!!. I went to replace the hose and filter and saw this beautiful 90 that just screws into the gas tank. I now have a 2 piece 90 and don't mean 2-45's..good thing I have a full compliment of easyouts. Thanks again Tim.
 
Well, as a McCulloch guy, I've crossed over to the red side! I picked up an XP 1020 today! It is pretty clean, runs good, sounds angry!!! The guy threw in a similar model (but gear drive) for a parts saw. Wait till my Husky lovin' neighbor sees this saw!!!
 

Attachments

  • 0529181644-00.jpg
    0529181644-00.jpg
    493.1 KB
  • 0529181646-00.jpg
    0529181646-00.jpg
    452.7 KB
Well, as a McCulloch guy, I've crossed over to the red side! I picked up an XP 1020 today! It is pretty clean, runs good, sounds angry!!! The guy threw in a similar model (but gear drive) for a parts saw. Wait till my Husky lovin' neighbor sees this saw!!!
That gear drive is a 3100. If you don't want it, I'd be happy to purchase it. However once you figure out that saw is way better than the 1050, I'm dubious that you will part with it.
 
Well, as a McCulloch guy, I've crossed over to the red side! I picked up an XP 1020 today! It is pretty clean, runs good, sounds angry!!! The guy threw in a similar model (but gear drive) for a parts saw. Wait till my Husky lovin' neighbor sees this saw!!!
That's a beautiful saw. My 1050 has a fuel issue.. Just no time to tackle it.. What size is that bar? Looks huge
 
It is just a 30" bar....I think the camera angle makes it look long. I was feeling pleased before, but "You Suck" points......priceless!!! I should mention I had to drive about a half mile to buy the saw.
 
It is just a 30" bar....I think the camera angle makes it look long. I was feeling pleased before, but "You Suck" points......priceless!!! I should mention I had to drive about a half mile to buy the saw.
You may be required to give back some "you suck" points by gloating.. I posted this a while back. Had to give up all my pointsIMG_20180517_135724.jpg
 
Well, as a McCulloch guy, I've crossed over to the red side! I picked up an XP 1020 today! It is pretty clean, runs good, sounds angry!!! The guy threw in a similar model (but gear drive) for a parts saw. Wait till my Husky lovin' neighbor sees this saw!!!
Please......You don't want to even consider that 3100g as a parts saw. only very few parts will interchange with the other saw anyways (like maybe a few screws). If you don't want it, there will be a line of others (including me) that do and will restore it to its former glory!!! 3100g's are one of the most desirable Homelites.
 
I watched a bunch of Youtube videos on 3100G saws. Now I see why it got the interest in my photo. I'm going to bring this saw back to a good, clean, working saw condition.....not like brand new, more like a year or two old. I appreciate the information, I don't know that much about Homelites (yet).
 
I watched a bunch of Youtube videos on 3100G saws. Now I see why it got the interest in my photo. I'm going to bring this saw back to a good, clean, working saw condition.....not like brand new, more like a year or two old. I appreciate the information, I don't know that much about Homelites (yet).


Some guys have good luck unlocking the P&C with a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone. Shake well as they will separate over time. Don't get it on the paint.
 
I watched a bunch of Youtube videos on 3100G saws. Now I see why it got the interest in my photo. I'm going to bring this saw back to a good, clean, working saw condition.....not like brand new, more like a year or two old. I appreciate the information, I don't know that much about Homelites (yet).


I watched/waited for YEARS before luck came my way regarding my 3100G.Only seen 4-5 for sale in almost a decade on Feebay & elsewhere.Finally last October one of my West Coast contacts had a very clean one with not a lot of use (he bought it from original owner who lived not far away) with a 42" rollernose bar & very good Oregon 1/2" skip chain.I offered him a fair price & listing was ended within a hour of when it posted.

Yes they're out there,but it takes much patience which will be rewarded eventually.
 
Back in the 70's my Dad took a local landscaper, tree man wannabe, under his wing. The guy turned into an excellent climber and eventually went into the tree business. If he ever needed a big saw to flush stumps or whatever, he would borrow one of our Super 1050's, with a 36" bar. One day he showed up with a 2100 with a 48" bar (or whatever Homelite had in the 48 range), I've lusted for one ever since. One of these days I'll find one at a sale cheap. I picked up a 7-29 with 52" bar and helper handle for $60, I know there is a 2100-3100 waiting for me to rescue it.
 
Still throwin chips.
oMvl9JB.jpg
 
Finally found a couple of hours to throw at a saw. Early 130 with full wrap. Piston was toast, but the cylinder cleaned up well enough with 120/220 emery, split mandrel and a Dremel. Trying my first AM Chinese piston. Piston looks good. Rings/pins needed work to fit the bore. We'll see. A bit of an experiment. Sitting without cylinder gasket in Motoseal. Finger tight for a couple of days. It is always a treat with these to open them up and find the earlier points setup. I always enjoy taking the ignitions apart, cleaning them up and reassembling them. Nothing like a fat blue spark when you give it a half crank.

This one came with a nice original Windsor 20". Proper mount (similar to the K095) and sprocket nose. First sprocket nose in that pattern I've seen.

Homelite Super XL-130 Early (5).JPG Homelite Super XL-130 Early (4).JPG Homelite Super XL-130 Early.JPG
 
It lives. To that, my neighbours can attest.

I knew something was up when the HS-104 needed more than 2 turns out on L to even hold an idle. That same carb came on one of my earlier 902's. Should have been more like 1 1/4 or so. Pulled the low circuit plug and found some debris clogging the idle port. The internal fuel feed from the H needle was also blocked somewhat. Was going to soak it in Seafoam, but with a few cycles of carb cleaner, it opened up. Sitting happy at 1 1/8 and 7/8 with the governor blocked off.


Homelite Super XL-130 Points (2).JPG
Homelite Super XL-130 Points (1).JPG

Homelite Super XL-130 Points (8).JPG
 

Latest posts

Back
Top