It could be if it’s leaking. If it’s leaking, it would either have to be replaced or plugged. Which model Tillotson carb is it?Would that be causing a fuel problem?.. Has lock tite on it, so I guess nonadjustable? Thanks Tim
It could be if it’s leaking. If it’s leaking, it would either have to be replaced or plugged. Which model Tillotson carb is it?Would that be causing a fuel problem?.. Has lock tite on it, so I guess nonadjustable? Thanks Tim
Would that be causing a fuel problem?.. Has lock tite on it, so I guess nonadjustable? Thanks Tim
That is just way good information..now for the major problem at hand... ME!!!. I went to replace the hose and filter and saw this beautiful 90 that just screws into the gas tank. I now have a 2 piece 90 and don't mean 2-45's..good thing I have a full compliment of easyouts. Thanks again Tim.The governors are hard to get out. You need to make sure the screwdriver tip fits the slot in the brass governor well or you'll wreck the slot. I generally remove the choke rod to get a straight shot at it.
Typically, if they are messed up they will dump fuel all the time and the saw will have mix puking out the muffler making it impossible to tune the high side.
Another couple of issues somewhat common in my experience is a worn throttle shaft which lets more air into the carb at different positions which makes the high side impossible to tune. If that's the case, the brass shaft is generally worn and the shaft bore in the carb body is OK so you can replace the rod.
The other is a damaged or plugged up main nozzle check valve. There are two types used on he HS carbs. One is a capillary screen and little rubber flap for a check valve and the other is a one piece brass check valve.
To tell which one it is, have a look under the metering diaphragm at the carb body If there's two welch plugs you have the capillary type which is under the small welch plug. If there's one welch plug and what looks like a brass plug, you have the self contained type.
I think the brass one extends into the venturi but can't remember.
If you can't get the governor out, the fuel dump passage to the governor is in the metering needle well on the side where the metering needle shaft hold down screw is. I suppose you could plug that as a cure if you narrow it down to the governor.
That gear drive is a 3100. If you don't want it, I'd be happy to purchase it. However once you figure out that saw is way better than the 1050, I'm dubious that you will part with it.Well, as a McCulloch guy, I've crossed over to the red side! I picked up an XP 1020 today! It is pretty clean, runs good, sounds angry!!! The guy threw in a similar model (but gear drive) for a parts saw. Wait till my Husky lovin' neighbor sees this saw!!!
Boy, some guys get all the luck, and it was thrown in for free! That’s definitely a you suck!!!!That gear drive is a 3100. .
That's a beautiful saw. My 1050 has a fuel issue.. Just no time to tackle it.. What size is that bar? Looks hugeWell, as a McCulloch guy, I've crossed over to the red side! I picked up an XP 1020 today! It is pretty clean, runs good, sounds angry!!! The guy threw in a similar model (but gear drive) for a parts saw. Wait till my Husky lovin' neighbor sees this saw!!!
You may be required to give back some "you suck" points by gloating.. I posted this a while back. Had to give up all my pointsIt is just a 30" bar....I think the camera angle makes it look long. I was feeling pleased before, but "You Suck" points......priceless!!! I should mention I had to drive about a half mile to buy the saw.
Please......You don't want to even consider that 3100g as a parts saw. only very few parts will interchange with the other saw anyways (like maybe a few screws). If you don't want it, there will be a line of others (including me) that do and will restore it to its former glory!!! 3100g's are one of the most desirable Homelites.Well, as a McCulloch guy, I've crossed over to the red side! I picked up an XP 1020 today! It is pretty clean, runs good, sounds angry!!! The guy threw in a similar model (but gear drive) for a parts saw. Wait till my Husky lovin' neighbor sees this saw!!!
I watched a bunch of Youtube videos on 3100G saws. Now I see why it got the interest in my photo. I'm going to bring this saw back to a good, clean, working saw condition.....not like brand new, more like a year or two old. I appreciate the information, I don't know that much about Homelites (yet).
I understand the 2100 is popular for building a hot saw. That's the 3100 without the gear reductionSome guys have good luck unlocking the P&C with a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone. Shake well as they will separate over time. Don't get it on the paint.
I watched a bunch of Youtube videos on 3100G saws. Now I see why it got the interest in my photo. I'm going to bring this saw back to a good, clean, working saw condition.....not like brand new, more like a year or two old. I appreciate the information, I don't know that much about Homelites (yet).
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