Homelite Chainsaws

[PogoInTheWoods]

Just rebuilt a Super 2 and can't quite figure out what seems to be a starter pawl to pulley problem. It was slipping before I took it apart and the pulley had obvious wear/gash marks in one area that I figured was the problem. I attributed the wear to a sloppy starter fit due to only 2 screws plus the handle top screw holding the starter on.

New pulley, pawls move freely, everything seems to line up correctly. Still having the same problem with the starter not completely engaging probably every third or fourth pull.

Just wondering if this is something inherent in these things or if I'm overlooking something butt simple.

Pic of the old pulley. Can sorta see what was going on. I actually can't see how it could have gotten worn like this unless the starter was flopping around while the saw was running.

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[2broke2ride]

Made my first cuts tonight. Saw ran good. This has sone kind of weird fixed hi jet. There is a screw there but it wont let you tune it any leaner. Once it ran a little while it seemed pretty good anyway. I'm happy with it, the saw has endless pull, literally cannot stall it out.
I do not like this semi chisel chain, will not cut unless you dog in, I had this problem the last time I tried semi. As soon as I replenish my funds I will be getting a loop of full chisel for it.

 

[2broke2ride]

Does anyone know how to take these style caps apart to change the duck bill? This one is not sealing at all and I'm getting a touch of vapor lock when she is hot.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The vent should be in the side of the cap where that little slot is on the bottom. Duckbill held in place with a sintered plug.

 

[2broke2ride]

I.see the sintered plug, that just pried out? No springs or anything like in a mac cap?
Do you have a part number for the right duck bill?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Plug just pries out. Not sure which duckbill it uses. You'll probably find out by the color of the goo when you pop that plug.

 

[fossil]

Made my first cuts tonight. Saw ran good. This has sone kind of weird fixed hi jet. There is a screw there but it wont let you tune it any leaner. Once it ran a little while it seemed pretty good anyway. I'm happy with it, the saw has endless pull, literally cannot stall it out.
I do not like this semi chisel chain, will not cut unless you dog in, I had this problem the last time I tried semi. As soon as I replenish my funds I will be getting a loop of full chisel for it.

The Homelite tuning bulletin for the 925 carb. They did this with the carb as they had a lot of issues with the cylinders burning up.

Semi chisel chain feeds itself if it's properly filed. File too low in the cutter will cause that.

I.see the sintered plug, that just pried out? No springs or anything like in a mac cap?
Do you have a part number for the right duck bill?

Use an awl or ice pick in the slot to pry the sintered plug out. Clean all the goo out and off the plug end as it has to pass air, put the new valve in, flange against the sintered plug and push the plug back in. Those are the only two parts in there.

Make sure the gap between the tank and the crankcase is clear or you may run into vapor lock issues. They are known for filling with saw cake.

The duckbill valve you want is Homelite 69451 or Stens 610-345

 

[ML12]

All cleaned, reassembled and tuned. Now I just need some chain and I'll be set. Going to switch it over to .404 so that I can run a couple of my big bars on it.







Its a really heavy saw to cart around with the 42" hard nose bar. I can't imagine actually working with one of these all day.

 

[rarefish383]

All cleaned, reassembled and tuned. Now I just need some chain and I'll be set. Going to switch it over to .404 so that I can run a couple of my big bars on it.

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Its a really heavy saw to cart around with the 42" hard nose bar. I can't imagine actually working with one of these all day.

I had to work with Super 1050's all day many times. We were doing a lot job where we dropped a couple dozen giant Tulip Poplars. Dad tried to talk the customer into selling the logs, no way, they wanted it all cut up into firewood. He sent a crew in with the chipper truck, and when they had the place cleaned up enough for us to walk around, he sent 3 of us in. Two of us had 1050's with 36" bars, and the third guy was a fueler. When you knew your saw was getting low you waved and the fueler came over and gas and oiled your saw, never even shut them off. Getting later in the day my hands were getting so numb from hours of vibration, I took my left hand off the top handle bar and was wiggling my fingers. I set my palm down on top of the handle bar, still shaking my fingers, and put pressure on the handle bar, still cutting. The tip of the bar hit a log on the far side of the log and shot back, my hand that had been pushing down on the handle, that was no longer there, dropped right on the chain. Hit 3 fingers. I was so afraid to tell my Dad I just wrapped them up and kept working. I was 18-20 then. Those 3 fingers would turn yellow and go numb when it started getting below about 40-45 degrees, until just a few years ago. I'm 63 now. So, when you are told to keep your thumb locked around the handle bar that's why. I bought a 45" bar for one of my 1050's, but haven't got a chain yet.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

What kind of compression is common for a 1050? I have a 1050A that I can't even pull over enough to test with a gauge, let alone start easily. Nice saw, too. Shame for it to just sit. Thinking it may be time to move it along to someone who eats a lot more Wheaties than I do!

 

[rarefish383]

What kind of compression is common for a 1050? I have a 1050A that I can't even pull over enough to test with a gauge, let alone start easily. Nice saw, too. Shame for it to just sit. Thinking it may be time to move it along to someone who eats a lot more Wheaties than I do!

Like dangling crack in front of a junky! I passed a really nice one at a yard sale last year, with a 36" bar, $200, will never do that again. Couple years ago, I gave one away, never do that again. Lucky I don't know where you live. I'd be on your front step tomorrow morning when you get up.

I think the fingers on my left hand are an inch longer than my right from starting 1050's. I set the bar on a log, hold the trigger with my right, and pull with my left.

 

[fossil]

What kind of compression is common for a 1050? I have a 1050A that I can't even pull over enough to test with a gauge, let alone start easily. Nice saw, too. Shame for it to just sit. Thinking it may be time to move it along to someone who eats a lot more Wheaties than I do!

Even with 140 psi those big displacement saws are hard to pull over. Not nice either if they kick back. Not sure what the comp is on my CP125 MAC as I didn't care to pull it 6 times without the decomp but it's stout for sure.

 

[sawfun]

Even with 140 psi those big displacement saws are hard to pull over. Not nice either if they kick back. Not sure what the comp is on my CP125 MAC as I didn't care to pull it 6 times without the decomp but it's stout for sure.

The trick, without decomp, is to get it at TDC and pull like you mean it. Often they start easier without the Decomp.

 

[rarefish383]

I've found with ALL of my 1050's and my Mac 550, if you hold the trigger open, or use the trigger lock, they pull over and don't pop back. If you leave the trigger closed they pop back every time. I usually have a log available to rest the tip of the bar on when doing this. If I don't, I put the trigger lock on, put my right foot in the rear handle, hold the top handle with my left hand and pull with my right. Back in the 70's when Dad bought our first 1050, the older guys laughed at me trying to start it with no trigger pulled. I was afraid it would get away from me. I also posted this here a long time ago and got one reply. "REED VALVES". So, is popping back more prevalent with reed valves?

 

[ML12]

What kind of compression is common for a 1050? I have a 1050A that I can't even pull over enough to test with a gauge, let alone start easily. Nice saw, too. Shame for it to just sit. Thinking it may be time to move it along to someone who eats a lot more Wheaties than I do!

That 1100 I just rebuilt has brand new rings that aren't even broken in and its tough on the elbow and shoulder to start. I suspect its only got around 150psi though.

My girlfriends favourite saw is my Mac 795 because its got a decomp and she can start it.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Got it to pull over for the entire rope length a couple times this morning with trigger locked open and no choke. Didn't start, but hasn't been run in over a year and could probably use a prime. Choke changes the game quite a bit, tho. 'Bout the best I can do with it choked is three hard revolutions and a 3rd of the rope before I run outta ass. Will try the bar on the log with a drop start when I get my wind back..., probably later this afternoon. LOL

 

[rarefish383]

Send it over here, I'll start it.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Someone gave me a homelite super ez automatic, doesn't start??
Low and behold blue coil , I'm gonna try and bake it.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Well baking the prestolite coil worked out, Haha casing got alittle melty but fires right up now,thank goodness for AS!

 

[James Miller]

The trick, without decomp, is to get it at TDC and pull like you mean it. Often they start easier without the Decomp.

My 111s is like that. Starts better with the decomp closed and grip it and RIP it.