Homelite Chainsaws

[PogoInTheWoods]

Looks to be a tab for possibly holding the lamination layers together? There's another one adjacent to the top mounting hole. (I was hoping for a hidden timing adjustment feature.) LOL

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Still waiting for the tank to completely dry out before fueling back up and trying to start the beast. Had to repeatedly flush it with water to get rid of all the debris. Was a pretty nasty layer of tar and gravel in the bottom even though the fuel that was in it was nice and clean. Don't think much was making it through this filter. Makes me want to revisit the carb for a closer look there, too.

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[svk]

What’s the story on the manual assist oil pump on a SXL AO? If it’s not pumping oil and the lines aren’t plugged, is there any way to replace it? Or do you need to rob a handle from a parts saw?

 

[fossil]

You need to free up the check valves which are shown on the IPL Ball and spring get stuck.

 

[Ginger15]

Finally got the little EZ-250 running. I had thrown a carb kit in a few months back but never tuned it. Life finally calmed down and I was able to finally finish it. Runs like a champ and the auto oiler still works too. Tach spring is missing as well as the muffler reed flap. Is it worth putting a new flap on?

 

[svk]

You need to free up the check valves which are shown on the IPL Ball and spring get stuck.

I am looking at the schematic....that is under the plunger, correct? How is the plunger held in, threaded or friction?

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

What’s the story on the manual assist oil pump on a SXL AO? If it’s not pumping oil and the lines aren’t plugged, is there any way to replace it? Or do you need to rob a handle from a parts saw?

Took my check valve apart from the little elbow and it fixed mine, ball was stuck.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

So the fuel line installation on the XL98 I'm working on has become an interesting exercise. After doing some shopping, I took a chance on a Proline fuel line kit from Sawzilla for $18.79 vs. $30 ~ $40 everywhere else. Don't mind saying I was a little skeptical -- especially after a recent experience with a complete POS AM fuel line that was included with an otherwise very nice AM Husky 372xp tank/handle.

Anyway, I lube it up and cautiously attempt to push/pull the tank line into position. Didn't take long for the cussin' to start since it just didn't want to go and I really didn't want to turn around and spend twice as much anyway for another kit if I tore this line. Well..., patience, a little more lube, and a lot more ass put into both the pulling and the pushing and it finally snapped into place with a very nice fit. Same deal with fitting the flared tube into the grommet. A real b!tch, but a super nice fit. Suffice to say the line seems to be made of some high quality material. Only time will tell how it holds up to fuel, especially ethanol laced mix.

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So the carb line looks like a whole different challenge and a lot more cussin' unless there's a trick to getting the tabs correctly positioned on each side of the housing with one tab obviously needing to go through the opening. (I removed the handle bolt for better access to the hole.) Any tips or tricks for this?

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[Hoggwood]

So the fuel line installation on the XL98 I'm working on has become an interesting exercise. After doing some shopping, I took a chance on a Proline fuel line kit from Sawzilla for $18.79 vs. $30 ~ $40 everywhere else. Don't mind saying I was a little skeptical -- especially after a recent experience with a complete POS AM fuel line that was included with an otherwise very nice AM Husky 372xp tank/handle.

Anyway, I lube it up and cautiously attempt to push/pull the tank line into position. Didn't take long for the cussin' to start since it just didn't want to go and I really didn't want to turn around and spend twice as much anyway for another kit if I tore this line. Well..., patience, a little more lube, and a lot more ass put into both the pulling and the pushing and it finally snapped into place with a very nice fit. Same deal with fitting the flared tube into the grommet. A real b!tch, but a super nice fit. Suffice to say the line seems to be made of some high quality material. Only time will tell how it holds up to fuel, especially ethanol laced mix.

View attachment 761892
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So the carb line looks like a whole different challenge and a lot more cussin' unless there's a trick to getting the tabs correctly positioned on each side of the housing with one tab obviously needing to go through the opening. (I removed the handle bolt for better access to the hole.) Any tips or tricks for this?

View attachment 761893

View attachment 761894​

I haven't installed a line like that one. Usually a straight line with the grommet in the knockout.

I might try a similar method to installing carb boots that have a large flange you need to get through into an air box. Tie a couple of pieces of dental floss, knotted off at 180 degrees to each other behind the first tab. Lube everything up well and use the floss to pull the tab through. A little pushing from behind with a Popsicle stick to encourage part of the tab to work its way into the hole and pull it through. Sometimes wrapping the floss around the line a couple of times before pulling and then unwrapping when the tab/flange is against the hole will flip the flange over to the other side of the hole. Similar to using string wrapped around a finger to remove (pull) a ring over a swollen joint.

Good luck.

 

[fossil]

So the fuel line installation on the XL98 I'm working on has become an interesting exercise. After doing some shopping, I took a chance on a Proline fuel line kit from Sawzilla for $18.79 vs. $30 ~ $40 everywhere else. Don't mind saying I was a little skeptical -- especially after a recent experience with a complete POS AM fuel line that was included with an otherwise very nice AM Husky 372xp tank/handle.

Anyway, I lube it up and cautiously attempt to push/pull the tank line into position. Didn't take long for the cussin' to start since it just didn't want to go and I really didn't want to turn around and spend twice as much anyway for another kit if I tore this line. Well..., patience, a little more lube, and a lot more ass put into both the pulling and the pushing and it finally snapped into place with a very nice fit. Same deal with fitting the flared tube into the grommet. A real b!tch, but a super nice fit. Suffice to say the line seems to be made of some high quality material. Only time will tell how it holds up to fuel, especially ethanol laced mix.

View attachment 761892
​

So the carb line looks like a whole different challenge and a lot more cussin' unless there's a trick to getting the tabs correctly positioned on each side of the housing with one tab obviously needing to go through the opening. (I removed the handle bolt for better access to the hole.) Any tips or tricks for this?

View attachment 761893

View attachment 761894​

Sometimes feeding the line from the carb box side is easier.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Near as I could figure that was the only logical way to do it. The tabs were easy compared to getting the large end through the hole, though. Quite a challenge there.

New issue that's a little weird. Is this actually a seam or just a hairline crack in the casting? An IPL would suggest it's a crack. That's fuel you see and it's weeping through the entire length of the indentation, though it's much more pronounce at the lower end of the pic.

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So what's the starting point for the L jet on a fixed hi jet Tilly? Can get the thing to fire up and rev nicely but don't really know where to start for the lo speed and idle adjustments..., and it's too damned hard to pull over for experimental adjustments just a hair at a time! Truth be told it could use a kit too, but I figured it would at least run and idle with the existing diaphragms if I lucked into a usable L setting.

 

[fossil]

That gap should have a gasket in it to keep crap out of the air box. There's a gap there around the carb adapter / reed block.Have a look at a SXL 925IPL

My 900 series with idle well at around 1-1/8 open on the low side.

From the 4th Ed manual

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Thanks again, Tim. Interesting info about the governed 5000 rpm. Doesn't seem to be the case with this particular XL98-A. It winds out like a regular XL925 from what I can tell. Guess I could put a tach on it to see where it tops out. I did just pick up a carb kit for it that will hopefully help getting the low jet dialed in. (Nice to have a dealer handy that stocks a very wide variety of carb kits at reasonable prices!) If that doesn't do the trick I guess I'll start looking for an air leak. Really didn't want to get that far into it.

As for the leaking seam, I'm talking about the one circled below. I don't see it as a pair of mating surfaces in either the XL98 or XL925 IPLs unless I'm completely missing it. And I gather the oil tank cavity on the XL98 has become part of the fuel tank? Kinda hard to tell, but it sure takes a lotta fuel to just submerge the fuel filter in one o' these.

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[sawnami]

Made one of my 20MCS's look a little better. It starts and runs.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Wow. That's absolutely outstanding.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

This 26LCS is coincidentally up in line over the next week or so for a guy who says it runs "but needs a little work". I'm actually looking forward to it.
And I will undoubtedly have a few questions along the way, but what paint to use or where'd ya get the decals certainly won't be among them! LOL

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[fossil]

Thanks again, Tim. Interesting info about the governed 5000 rpm. Doesn't seem to be the case with this particular XL98-A. It winds out like a regular XL925 from what I can tell. Guess I could put a tach on it to see where it tops out. I did just pick up a carb kit for it that will hopefully help getting the low jet dialed in. (Nice to have a dealer handy that stocks a very wide variety of carb kits at reasonable prices!) If that doesn't do the trick I guess I'll start looking for an air leak. Really didn't want to get that far into it.

As for the leaking seam, I'm talking about the one circled below. I don't see it as a pair of mating surfaces in either the XL98 or XL925 IPLs unless I'm completely missing it. And I gather the oil tank cavity on the XL98 has become part of the fuel tank? Kinda hard to tell, but it sure takes a lotta fuel to just submerge the fuel filter in one o' these.

View attachment 761966​

It looks more like a joint and I don't know how it would crack there but I don't see it on the IPL.

In case you don't have an IPL, there are a couple here but they aren't very clear.

https://www.partstree.com/search/?type=model&term=xl+98a+ut+05015+homelite+multi+purpose+saw

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Those are the ones I've been referring to myself. Only place I could find the "A" version which is what I'm working on.

 

[fossil]

Those are the ones I've been referring to myself. Only place I could find the "A" version which is what I'm working on.

That must be the Canadian version, eh?

 

[undee70ss]

It looks more like a joint and I don't know how it would crack there but I don't see it on the IPL.

In case you don't have an IPL, there are a couple here but they aren't very clear.

https://www.partstree.com/search/?type=model&term=xl+98a+ut+05015+homelite+multi+purpose+saw

Leon’s IPL’s are much clearer
https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre...l-98a_multi-purpose_saw_ipl_24760__rev.3_.pdf

 

[fossil]

The trouble with Leon's IPL's are the watermarks splashed across them that often block PN and detail.
A great resource and appreciated but I try to find ones clear of that.