Beautiful work, nice what kind of paint did you use?Made one of my 20MCS's look a little better. It starts and runs.
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Homelite Chainsaws
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sawnami
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks Greg. It's PPG brand. I took the fuel tank to our wholesale supplier and had them custom tint to match the unexposed bottom of the fuel tank.
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Hey Guys, Mark @heimannm is looking for some 360 carb parts:
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...ollectors-lounge.301856/page-744#post-7014369
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...ollectors-lounge.301856/page-744#post-7014369
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
Back to working on one of my problem childs...a SXL 925W. Not pulling fuel to the cylinder. Has a Tilly 151 cab. Ideas?
Saw seems to have good comp, I dont have a tester but my arm gets tired after a couple pulls. Carb holds pressure, no leaks.
Saw seems to have good comp, I dont have a tester but my arm gets tired after a couple pulls. Carb holds pressure, no leaks.
The usual checks
Impulse hole blocked at gasket between carb and adaptor
Carb kit?
Diaphragms and gaskets in carb in correct order and carb filter screen clean.
Metering lever height correct.
Fuel line and filter in good shape.
Does it fire on prime through the carb?
Impulse hole blocked at gasket between carb and adaptor
Carb kit?
Diaphragms and gaskets in carb in correct order and carb filter screen clean.
Metering lever height correct.
Fuel line and filter in good shape.
Does it fire on prime through the carb?
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
Gasket was mated up correctly for the impulse hole. It has a new carb kit in from this year. All gaskets were matched. The screen was replaced. I havent reopened the carb to look at the metering but it was set correctly when the kit was installed. Fuel line is new, filter is new. Only about 1" of the fuel line has fuel in it, the rest is empty. Breather on the cap is new.
Have not tried putting fuel down the carb yet, how much? I have a small dropper that can be used. I do have spark, checked that last night. It was a tad on the blue side of color however.
Sometimes the diaphragms are a little stiff when new. Fill your eye dropper with mix and squirt it into the carb venturi while holding the throttle open. It helps to point the saw down so it goes into the reed block.
No need the choke the saw but set the throttle lock and start the saw. It should start within three pulls and will likely die. It may take 3 or more primes to get the carb pumping. If it isn't running by 5 primes you likely still have some issue.
Set your idle needle out to 1-1/8 turns out and the high at 1.
Make sure your idle speed adjust is in enough that you are sure the throttle plate is slightly open. You can always turn it down once you get it going.
There is a bulletin on tuning the 151 carb on those saws which I will attach.
The carb is governed so you will need to set the final ion the high needle in wood.
If that doesn't work you may have a large air leak somewhere.
No need the choke the saw but set the throttle lock and start the saw. It should start within three pulls and will likely die. It may take 3 or more primes to get the carb pumping. If it isn't running by 5 primes you likely still have some issue.
Set your idle needle out to 1-1/8 turns out and the high at 1.
Make sure your idle speed adjust is in enough that you are sure the throttle plate is slightly open. You can always turn it down once you get it going.
There is a bulletin on tuning the 151 carb on those saws which I will attach.
The carb is governed so you will need to set the final ion the high needle in wood.
If that doesn't work you may have a large air leak somewhere.
freebie project today 5-30.
lookin for ipl & info on bearings seals.
looks like it's all there.
needin tensioner. it's here, but broke n made of brass.
tia for any info/help.
lookin for ipl & info on bearings seals.
looks like it's all there.
needin tensioner. it's here, but broke n made of brass.
tia for any info/help.
Is it a 5-30 or a 5-30N?
just says 5-30 on tag.
sn is 424246, if that tells ya anymore.
looked @ 5-30-n on acres. not much info there.
sn is 424246, if that tells ya anymore.
looked @ 5-30-n on acres. not much info there.
Here's an IPL Pete.
https://app.box.com/s/c25woxl9z86zgpivcfee8c73bwnnaix7
Manual
https://app.box.com/s/yyhuv4gdzvhl9bvff5srg6br0fbdgln2
Watermarks make them a PTA but that's what I have.
I don't have any seal or bearing info but Lee Harvey might be able to help.
thx, tim.
had a look. learnin already. wanted to know before tryin to get bottom end apart.
it rolls, but feels tight.
never seen anything like the rotary valve/governor before.
had a look. learnin already. wanted to know before tryin to get bottom end apart.
it rolls, but feels tight.
never seen anything like the rotary valve/governor before.
sawnami
Addicted to ArboristSite
The instruction book for the 5-30 has a 20 page major overhaul section.
There's one on eBay for a reasonable price.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/323848641397
I don't have a working scanner right now but I could take pics of specific sections for you.
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There's one on eBay for a reasonable price.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/323848641397
I don't have a working scanner right now but I could take pics of specific sections for you.
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thx. was curious bout bottom end, belt drive & gov.
what tim put up answered most of it.
we'll see as it goes along...
how the caged needles on fw side get nuff lube might be nother ?
crank has some blue @ seal
+ "watching" that book.
r you the seller?
what tim put up answered most of it.
we'll see as it goes along...
how the caged needles on fw side get nuff lube might be nother ?
crank has some blue @ seal
+ "watching" that book.
r you the seller?
5-30 IPL
sawnami
Addicted to ArboristSite
No, I'm not the seller.
Here's a bare crank for comparison for you. They're not too bad to work on.
Here's a video with the drive case cover off.
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Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
Thats a massive crank.
In regards to the 925 I havent gotten to test out the suggestions yet, had a couple other saws need work that are used much more often so it got put on the back burner til Thursday most likely.
In regards to the 925 I havent gotten to test out the suggestions yet, had a couple other saws need work that are used much more often so it got put on the back burner til Thursday most likely.
my piston dont look like that.
is that the "n" diff?
is that the "n" diff?
sawnami
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's a 20MCS piston.
The N's have a different carburetor and fuel venting system.
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Is the idle circuit clear? I've had a few HS's where funk has made its way to the idle port inlets to the Venturi. The idle and transition fully blocked. Only way to clean those is to pull the plug, clean and replace. I always seat the H needle and blast cleaner through the removed L needle with the old kit in place - as I am tossing the old kit anyways. It should pass into the Venturi through the idle/transition ports like a jet.
Hopefully it isn't a big air leak and you are looking at weak impulse. Check the fuel line from pickup through to the carb with some pressure to ensure you aren't just pulling air from a leak in the lines or elbow.
I find those carbs with the semi-fixed H idle and throttle well right at 1 1/2 on L. Mine still run safely on the rich side with the H at 3/8 or so out from seated on the H with the governor blocked off.
I ran a tank through on of the 922's last weekend and it performed well at those settings on an HS-151 variant. 28" full house buried. If you are cutting in 20" or under, you might find the H needs to be " almost" seated. I don't like the idea of seating them completely with the governor blocked if the semi-fixed jet fails somehow.
Get it cutting and report back. Those carbs work well when healthy and likely saved 1000's of those saws from burning up.
