Homelite Chainsaws

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Timing backed off to nearly 1 1/2 key widths yields no discernable change in the bite back. I find that extremely strange. No extra coil or flywheel to swap in and I'm out of other ideas at this point. Outta ass after standin' on it to pull it over for the past half hour, too.

This would certainly be an interesting timing excercise if I had a degree wheel and didn't have a million other things to do. Unless someone has a magic bullet suggestion or two, I may be going down to defeat with this one..., and need a chiropractor for my back, neck and shoulder.
 
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Does anyone remember the XL-12 I picked up from a scrap yard on April fools day?
Well if you don't, I was handed this saw by the own of the yard and told me to stop back when I had cash ... so 20$ ( I like to keep it fair ,so more saws will come my way) .
The first one Ive seen with the Zama carb. I rebuilt the carb and put it to side.
I was standing around BSing with some retired guys and the conversation turned to old saws as it does. One of the old Dudes was telling me he had a XL-12 years ago and would love to have one again ,so I said I'd bring him one for the cost of the carb kit and new chain I had ..so 20$ .
2 days later put the carb back on and 5 pulls later the danm thing purred like a tiger, I thought well Sh@#t ! Ofcourse it runs great,guess I'm the fool now. Anyway I couldn't talk the man from shoving a C-note in my hand and he couldn't have been happier.
 
OK guys,maybe I can get some help here on this forum with my MP88.I bought the saw late last summer for a song.I don't think it was used more than once or twice,but the sad thing was that they left ethanol laden fuel in the tank & it ate up the fuel line entirely.I shudder to think what the inside of the carb looks like.The other problem is the impulse line has seen better days as well.I'm pretty sure I can get the replacement line,BUT how the hell do I replace it?Do I have to remove the rear handle assembly to do it?I've asked the folks over on HoH twice & got no answer at all,& OPE is totally useless.(Not trying to be mean here).BTW,an MP88 is pretty much the same thing as the XL-98.
 
I've been sitting on this one for a few years. Unfortunately, the PO didn't get to run it very long before they burnt up the top end. Sad. Cylinder was semi-salvaged and as much transfer as possible removed. I've run scored pistons, but this one had the lands peened over the rings. I threw a cheap AM piston in it, just to see it run. Compression is not where it should be. I expected as much. A healthy OEM top end is what it needs. It sure produces that nice blue spark that only points magnetos could muster. One of the last runs before the the blue Prestolites.

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OK guys,maybe I can get some help here on this forum with my MP88.I bought the saw late last summer for a song.I don't think it was used more than once or twice,but the sad thing was that they left ethanol laden fuel in the tank & it ate up the fuel line entirely.I shudder to think what the inside of the carb looks like.The other problem is the impulse line has seen better days as well.I'm pretty sure I can get the replacement line,BUT how the hell do I replace it?Do I have to remove the rear handle assembly to do it?I've asked the folks over on HoH twice & got no answer at all,& *** is totally useless.(Not trying to be mean here).BTW,an MP88 is pretty much the same thing as the XL-98.
I thought the xl-98 was a cut-saw?
 
No,the XL-98 is a chop saw used mostly on cutting concrete & some on metals.They had a special air filter that was supposed to help keep the concrete dust out of the engine,but if the saw was used extensively it usually didn't have a long life span.The saw can't be converted either because there's no oil reservoir.
 
BTW,an MP88 is pretty much the same thing as the XL-98.
Not really. The XL-98 is based on a Homelite SXL-925 powerhead. The MP88 is generally based on a 8800 powerhead (a Solo design) and closer to a 540 (also a Solo design). Very little in common except the displacement and general purpose. (Credit to the search function for easily obtaining the information from other posts on the subject.)
 
Not really. The XL-98 is based on a Homelite SXL-925 powerhead. The MP88 is generally based on a 8800 powerhead (a Solo design) and closer to a 540 (also a Solo design). Very little in common except the displacement and general purpose. (Credit to the search function for easily obtaining the information from other posts on the subject.)
That makes sense I was trying to figure out how it had an impulse line?
 
I'd have to say that the MP88 is based more on the 540 than the SXL-925 based on the displacement - 88cc,hence the model MP(multi-purpose)88.The SXL-925 early models were 82cc & the later models were 77cc.Some of the early 82cc models were converted to the 77cc because there was a problem with them burning up.The HS151 carb was put on to prevent wannabes from setting it too lean on the hi side.I don't claim to be a know-it-all on the subject,just passing along the info I gathered on the SXL-925 over the past few yrs.Correct me if I'm wrong.
I'm here to learn,get advice,gain knowledge,& pass any along that I might've gained.I still need to know how to replace the impulse line on the MP88.Lol
 
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Looking for some" easy " starts on my super 1050A s with throttle locks .
The black plastic one is actually a factory peice for the 1050 and the metal one is for a xl925.
I looked at the IPLs and this is how I interpreted it, if its wrong and someone has a picture of the correct ones please enlighten me.
They work pretty well either way.
Oh and I'm looking for a muffler sheild/ cover .
 
Funny thing,I just went through a similar situation with my XL-800.The throttle lock pin & spring were missing,so I went to the shed & hauled out a parts SXL,took the handle half off & took the parts out I needed.The SXL pin was plastic & I know that the 800 pin was metal.I think Homelite went from metal to plastic just for cost measures.Anyway,I put the plastic pin in the 800 & it works fine.Six of one & half dozen of the other.
As for the shield you need,give Bob Johnson a call,607-638-9297.
 
Funny thing,I just went through a similar situation with my XL-800.The throttle lock pin & spring were missing,so I went to the shed & hauled out a parts SXL,took the handle half off & took the parts out I needed.The SXL pin was plastic & I know that the 800 pin was metal.I think Homelite went from metal to plastic just for cost measures.Anyway,I put the plastic pin in the 800 & it works fine.Six of one & half dozen of the other.
As for the shield you need,give Bob Johnson a call,607-638-9297.
Is that the Bob in New York?
 
Funny thing,I just went through a similar situation with my XL-800.The throttle lock pin & spring were missing,so I went to the shed & hauled out a parts SXL,took the handle half off & took the parts out I needed.The SXL pin was plastic & I know that the 800 pin was metal.I think Homelite went from metal to plastic just for cost measures.Anyway,I put the plastic pin in the 800 & it works fine.Six of one & half dozen of the other.
As for the shield you need,give Bob Johnson a call,607-638-9297.
Well the metal one was just a touch shorter than the plastic and it didn't have a notch for an E-clip but I have a dremel so..
I was thinking no wonder I don't see the plastic ones ? They are probably broken riding around in the back of a truck pretty easily.
 
Well the metal one was just a touch shorter than the plastic and it didn't have a notch for an E-clip but I have a dremel so..
I was thinking no wonder I don't see the plastic ones ? They are probably broken riding around in the back of a truck pretty easily.
I think the E clips on the metal pins were the Achilles heel there.The pins held up,but the E clips were so fragile & thin that corrosion was their worst enemy.
The XL-923 has no E clip,I have no idea how the pin stays in there.I had it apart last summer & had to replace the trigger.Ah,now I remember.It's a giant PITA because it has a DSP valve & there's a rod that goes from the throttle pin to the DSP valve.Half the time the lever slips off that little pin.Lol
 
Can some one post a good quality replacement coil for my XL 76.
I ran through 3 blue coils of death I had and one chimchom ...
There is the Husky retrofit approach I mentioned in your other post if you end up taking a stab at it that way. Problem with any NOS or used coils is they are a gamble like the original. Standard Magneto was selling OEM. But, the price and potential for problems are concerning. That style of coil relentlessly plagued many XL-12/SXLAO,/1/Mini/76/130 and a lot of Farmsaws. Baking them is hit and very miss. So, finding a good, quality replacement is an oxymoron I am not patient or wealthy. So, I run the blues until they pack it in and then retrofit.
 
Yes, they have been baked 2 times each and the last one probably lasted an hr of of run time.
I’ll see what I find for Husky coils and go from there, I just want this saw to run and not be a shop queen.
 

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