2000 E is half wrap,probably 90% of the ones I've seen including mine were fullwrap & came from the West Coast originally.I think the 2000-P might've been the Canadian version,not sure.Never seen one of those.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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McCullochKid
ArboristSite Operative
Carrying this over from the You Suck thread, here you can see the evil screw that came loose and lodged itself under the flywheel. Blew open a nice hole in the points box. For now I just cleaned the surface off with a little rubbing alcohol and stretched a piece of electrical tape over the hole.
My question now is this: How do you adjust the flywheel/coil gap on this? It looks like it should be able to move but I can't figure out how. I don't know if it's because of the loose screw incident throwing something out of alignment or not, but the flywheel magnets make contact and rub against the coil parts when they come around.
Edit: To clarify for those that didn't see the other thread, this is an XL-12.
My question now is this: How do you adjust the flywheel/coil gap on this? It looks like it should be able to move but I can't figure out how. I don't know if it's because of the loose screw incident throwing something out of alignment or not, but the flywheel magnets make contact and rub against the coil parts when they come around.
Edit: To clarify for those that didn't see the other thread, this is an XL-12.
Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
For grandchildren
because someday this inscription will wipe out. Homelite Super XL Automatic. Listen,
I made an oval screw hole for the ignition coil and this procedure allowed me to move the whole assembly a bit away from the flywheel. At my circuit breaker there are 2 oval holes on the top and bottom
because someday this inscription will wipe out. Homelite Super XL Automatic. Listen, I made an oval screw hole for the ignition coil and this procedure allowed me to move the whole assembly a bit away from the flywheel. At my circuit breaker there are 2 oval holes on the top and bottom
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Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
My fuel line is empty all the time. What could be the cause ? Something will start running on the fuel injection
Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
Empty fuel line means no vacuum pulling fuel, or a leak in line above the fuel level. Check/Replace fuel line, try again.
I'm confused with this statement.
Strainer missing and needle valve not holding (weak/no spring?) sounds like someone has been into carb before and messed it up.
You probably meant something else.
A carburetor mixes air and fuel at the correct ratio for combustion.
Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
fuel line has been replaced and can the valve in the carburetor be the cause?It was about the manufacturer of the carburetor. Walbro? I'm sorry I didn't see uncle google ;-) that translates because I would correct it
Ok, I see the new yellow fuel line now.
The valve being stuck closed would cause no fuel to fill the fuel line from the tank. The valve being open and closed (you said "not holding") probably means the whole carb wants a clean and rebuild. Be careful when pulling it apart because there are no certainties about spares for it.
Your Super XL is a little older than my Super 2, and I'm not sure on availability of your rebuild kits. My first stop would be Ebay or Amazon for a compatible kit with diaphragms, seals, needle, lever and spring.
The non-OEM kits for Craftsman/Walbro have worked well.
Hey Piotr,
Not sure where your skill level is at, or if you're buried in the problem and have overlooked a simple thing, so disregard all that you have done already:
Fuel level checked, fuel filter not plugged, fuel line extends to bottom of fuel tank, fuel line not pinched/cracked/broken, fuel fittings at carb no plugged.
Happy hunting
Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
The lever is supposed to be level with the bottom of the carb. Make sure the nub is attached to the lever. Next will come the gasket then the diaphragm.
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]
Yes, this is correct for all carbs I'm familiar with. Should not be opening valve at this point.
To test, use clean tube connected to fuel inlet of carb and blow into it. It should not allow air through.
Then push on lever while still blowing into clean tube, and it should allow air through. If it doesn't allow air, find blockage.
Diaphragm condition plays a big part in this too. How's that look?
Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
Look surprisingly good.
Nub on right hand side picture makes contact with lever.
Order as @Marine-piper said
A bit of fuel or a shot of WD40 to occupy the chamber will create a more realistic condition to test the integrity of the needle and seat, often even providing a successful test when a dry test fails.
The notched nub in the center of the diaphragm slides into the forked end of the metering lever.
The notched nub in the center of the diaphragm slides into the forked end of the metering lever.
As @PogoInTheWoods and @Marine-piper have said, but I'm pointing it out specifically.
Straight edge ruler is hiding view of needle and 1/2 of lever. Usually the forked end is only at the needle, and around the needle to push and pull it.
Send another picture without straight edge and someone will confirm the fitment is correct.
Piotr Pakula
ArboristSite Operative
What is the diameter of the fuel line? Maybe it will start because I have already assembled and now it is flooding the spark plugs. Set the L and H bolts to 1 turn or more? It floods me with the spark plug after firing it takes about 15sec / A new spark plug helped ;-)
I have attached an Illustrated Parts List (IPL) that MAY work. I don't know your model number, but you need to find it, and get your IPL. Use "Beg for IPL" thread to get the right one for your model. This will help you with fuel line size, part orientation and the like.
On the plus side, your fuel line must be full now that your engine is flooding.
Probably means you need to get the needle and seat set right.
Those needle valve settings should work as a starting point, especially if you have seen that there is spark, or better yet that the engine fires on mix down the carb throat.
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