Homelite Chainsaws

[fossil]

Actually now that I think about it, the other method of handle isolation is by using a flexible throttle cable from the trigger to the carb.

I hereby stand corrected, but I'm not aware of many such saws that use that method just to eliminate the intake boot for the sake of rigidly mounting the carb to the cylinder..., which in and of itself creates a higher probability of vapor lock due to excessive heat transfer -- never mind the a/v.

I'm still interested in some examples.

A few more Poge.

Husky 61, 266, 268, 2100, Poulan 3400-4000, the big Counter vibes, Jonsered 630, 80, 90, 801.

The rubber boots only isolate the carb for heat. When they bounce around none of that is transmitted directly to the handlebars.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The rubber boots only isolate the carb for heat. When they bounce around none of that is transmitted directly to the handlebars.

On those saws, ok. And that covers quite a few. Guess I was thinking too much about a/v and talkin' out my ass a little more than usual, eh? LOL

But with that said, the greater the a/v isolation (and effectiveness) between the tank/rear handle and engine, the greater the need for intake assembly flexibility by whatever means..., regardless of where in the assembly the carb is mounted.

When a not too smart guy tries yankin' a pinched bar out of a no-win situation, what's gonna get trashed (after maybe an a/v mount or two) from him jerkin' the handle all over the place thinking he's actually going to free the saw?

Broken a/v almost always equates to intake assembly damage -- usually a torn boot.

 

[Wildman1024]

On those saws, ok. And that covers quite a few. Guess I was thinking too much about a/v and talkin' out my ass a little more than usual, eh? LOL

But with that said, the greater the a/v isolation (and effectiveness) between the tank/rear handle and engine, the greater the need for intake assembly flexibility by whatever means..., regardless of where in the assembly the carb is mounted.

When a not too smart guy tries yankin' a pinched bar out of a no-win situation, what's gonna get trashed (after maybe an a/v mount or two) from him jerkin' the handle all over the place thinking he's actually going to free the saw?

Broken a/v almost always equates to intake assembly damage -- usually a torn boot.

I was thinking of bringing an a/v mount to my local machine shop. Wonder how much it would cost to be reproduced in just plain steel or aluminum. Essentially making the saw rigid.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I was thinking of bringing an a/v mount to my local machine shop. Wonder how much it would cost to be reproduced in just plain steel or aluminum. Essentially making the saw rigid.

Oh I'm definitely interested in that outcome, shouldn't be too difficult for a machinist.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

On those saws, ok. And that covers quite a few. Guess I was thinking too much about a/v and talkin' out my ass a little more than usual, eh? LOL

But with that said, the greater the a/v isolation (and effectiveness) between the tank/rear handle and engine, the greater the need for intake assembly flexibility by whatever means..., regardless of where in the assembly the carb is mounted.

When a not too smart guy tries yankin' a pinched bar out of a no-win situation, what's gonna get trashed (after maybe an a/v mount or two) from him jerkin' the handle all over the place thinking he's actually going to free the saw?

Broken a/v almost always equates to intake assembly damage -- usually a torn boot.

You're correct as far as old McCulloch set ups, which could be why broken intake blocks abound in those other makes.

 

[McCullochKid]

Papa 550 with Lil Baby XL

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Looks like the makings of a nice little wood pile there, too.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Looks like the makings of a nice little wood pile there, too.

Yeah his wood pile makes me feel inadequate!

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Btw I've been talking to Danzco performance products about tooling up or modifying a 3/8ths sprocket for the 6 pin Big chassis Homelite clutch drum.

 

[redunshee]

Been after a 360 for awhile. Finally found one that looks almost new. Starts and runs great so I’m not going to touch anything at this time. Leave well enough alone.

 

[Marine-piper]

Been after a 360 for awhile. Finally found one that looks almost new. Starts and runs great so I’m not going to touch anything at this time. Leave well enough alone.

Almost new? For crying out loud it is new! Make sure the carb boot isn't soft because it will go in the cylinder and muck up the saw. Excellent find.

Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]

 

[fossil]

Been after a 360 for awhile. Finally found one that looks almost new. Starts and runs great so I’m not going to touch anything at this time. Leave well enough alone.

That's a beauty Bob!

 

[MacAttack]

Going through the carb in the late-production SXL, the OEM pump diaphragm (yes, it's there! Look close) is some kind of clear plastic, acetate? The rebuild kit came with a buna pump with a Teflon retainer. The OEM pump diaphragm still looks good and seems flexible. Does anyone know if it's acetate? I don't think I can remove the OEM gasket and pump without destroying them, they're pretty stuck to the pump cover.
Opinions on leaving the OEM pump or replacing with the buna diaphragm? It looks like I can EASILY replace just the pump if I need to. Did they switch to this type of diaphragm for better fuel resistance?

 

[Marine-piper]

Do a thorough cleaning and install a new Walbro K10-SDC kit.

Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]

 

[MacAttack]

This one's a Zama C2, already cleaned the carb, and I have a RB15 (or 16?) Kit. My curiosity is whether to leave the original clear pump diaphragm or replace with the black rubber diaphragm in the kit.

 

[Marine-piper]

Replace it, you have it totally disassembled and cleaned, one less future issue. I always fully rebuild.

Homelite enthusiast in training [emoji879]

 

[MacAttack]

Ok, I went ahead and installed the new pump diaphragms and gasket. Was able to remove the OEM pump intact...just in case.

The Teflon diaphragm is the "retainer", and the buna diaphragm is the actual fuel pump.

 

[MacAttack]

No test run tomorrow for my SXL... apparently it wasn't the brightest person at Sawzilla to ship my fuel line.

 

[xl130]

No test run tomorrow for my SXL... apparently it wasn't the brightest person at Sawzilla to ship my fuel line.

I used to buy all my Homelite fuel lines from Leon. His tygon fuel and tank grommet replacement kits are good quality.

https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre...ket_Tygon_Fuel_Hose_&_Grommet_Set_FLS21A.html
https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre...ket_Tygon_Fuel_Hose_&_Grommet_Set_FLS21B.html

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Scrap yard rescue, it actually runs but definitely needs seals and a through cleaning.