Homelite Chainsaws

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I just use a flat screwdriver and hammer and tap them out with that. Either tap down on it till a side sticks out enough to pry out or if a side is out alittle ways tap on it parallel with the shaft until it pops out

Okay, I just didn't want to ding the crank up. Thanks for the confirmation as that is what I was about to try.
 
Looks like we have another moron. And this one's been on AS since 2005. I guess you can't fix stupid...:bang:

try and remember that although Homelite was a good saw in its day... they just dont measure up to the likes of the "real good saws". I understand that you may have an attachment to your saw but please, please dont get me wrong here. It might be the saw is just old and needs a retirement party. I personally dont have the mechanical experience with small engines to give you a solid answer, but did run a Homelite for sometime many years ago...eventually it blew up on me just after a rebuild, so if that helps i am glad. If it doesnt help then continue your quest here someone will have an answer for you that may prove to be the one you are looking for.:rock:

yeah head over to the homelite thread, they are much more likely to help you then in this "problems with homelite 360" thread



http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/168093.htm#post2845606
 
They are very hard to find original, but the Mac 125 thin rings which were more common will fit just fine with just a bit of grinding on the ring ends.
That's some excellent info right there:clap: Thanks!

Working on a 750 Brad?
No, but a friend is. He's not a member here. His 750 only pulls 130 PSI but his Dad's 650 pulls 165 PSI.
 
I just use a flat screwdriver and hammer and tap them out with that. Either tap down on it till a side sticks out enough to pry out or if a side is out alittle ways tap on it parallel with the shaft until it pops out

I got one of the three out but I am really buggering up the key and dinging up the crank near the key end on the other two. I sprayed penetrant on too. How can they be so stuck? I think I can take the dings out of the crank easy enough but man are these things stuck in.
 
I got one of the three out but I am really buggering up the key and dinging up the crank near the key end on the other two. I sprayed penetrant on too. How can they be so stuck? I think I can take the dings out of the crank easy enough but man are these things stuck in.

Maybe use a small punch so you dont hit the flywheel? Or if your really good tap the key itself with the hammer just to lossen it up. As long as you dont pound, the marks should sand off the shaft and keys are easily replaceable if need be.
 
Maybe use a small punch so you dont hit the flywheel? Or if your really good tap the key itself with the hammer just to lossen it up. As long as you dont pound, the marks should sand off the shaft and keys are easily replaceable if need be.

Finally stuck an awl behind the edge and beat them out of there. :chainsaw:
 
sawrebuildandbar038.jpg

sawrebuildandbar036.jpg


Picked up this bar today it is a NOS general bar that measures 44 inches from tip to tip without the roller tip, is .063 gauge, and I think is a homelite mount. I will check this out later today on my 770D. Is there still roller tips to be had these days? Are they easy to install or do they take a special tool? sorry the only saw I had handy was the 045 and was just using it for scale.
 
pinchless bars

I was looking at an old pinchless bar the other day and was wondering how the chain gets oiled can anyone explain that to me
 
Looks like we have another moron. And this one's been on AS since 2005. I guess you can't fix stupid...:bang:

The same person you quoted was telling someone on the "Homeowners Helper" or the "Arborists 101" formum to fill a hollow tree with concrete. I don't know what globe he's practicing tree care on, but it shouldn't be this one, Joe.
 
Here's a vid of the XL700 I picked up the other day. I cut a tank with it today, I really like this saw, runs great.

[video=youtube;0xUBRuKUCHw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xUBRuKUCHw[/video]


Chris
 
Looks like we have another moron. And this one's been on AS since 2005. I guess you can't fix stupid...:bang:

The same person you quoted was telling someone on the "Homeowners Helper" or the "Arborists 101" formum to fill a hollow tree with concrete. I don't know what globe he's practicing tree care on, but it shouldn't be this one, Joe.

Concrete,
That used to be done all the time back in the 1950's and 60's
There was tree paint to paint over any large cuts
you made. They thought it would protect the tree but after
years of doing that,it caused the tree to rot under the paint.
The paint was like tar.
 
sawrebuildandbar038.jpg



Picked up this bar today it is a NOS general bar that measures 44 inches from tip to tip without the roller tip, is .063 gauge, and I think is a homelite mount. I will check this out later today on my 770D. Is there still roller tips to be had these days? Are they easy to install or do they take a special tool? sorry the only saw I had handy was the 045 and was just using it for scale.

no Jim, it is impossible to find rollers for that. Dont waist your time with it.

Just send it to me :D

p.s. not concernd about what it fits:msp_thumbup:

CIMG1236.jpg
 
no Jim, it is impossible to find rollers for that. Dont waist your time with it.

Just send it to me :D

p.s. not concernd about what it fits:msp_thumbup:

CIMG1236.jpg

Ha! I already have one on order. Now all I need is a big 100+cc gear drive homie and a long loop of .404. The 770D might work, it pulls a 30 inch hard nose with full comp like nobody's business.
 

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