Homelite E-Z Automatic/240 parts/service/advice inquiry

[MustXcape]

I am new to this board, and a seeking advice regarding equipment evaluation, service procedures and parts. I am proficient in small engine repair, yet have never owned or serviced a chainsaw, as I could readily borrow one, yet have always felt my tool collection would not be complete without one. Recently I checked out the last day of a multiple day Wisconsin north woods rummage sale. There were six Homelite chainsaws lying on the ground and when I inquired about their history, I was told they belonged to their son, had sold several more already, and not much else. From my experience and impression I surmised that the owner used each saw in turn until problems developed and then moved on to a new one. While trying to make up my mind as to best model selection/price offer four of the machines sold leaving one complete unit, and one missing the starter plate assembly. As I am notoriously cheap, I was pleased to obtain these for $5 as they where anxious to get rid of them. These chainsaws appear to be in good condition, with little rust (preserved in oily sawdust) worn but not abused, good compression, clean spark plugs, with all OEM parts (except maybe the chain) and no indication they have ever been disassembled. I have searched the internet service parts sites and message boards for information/advice on them and am able to provide the following specs.

Homelite Super EZ AO Chainsaw
Identification Sticker:
HOMELITE TEXTRON
UT NO. 10505B
SER. NO. 3E0240092
Walbro Carburetor
Prestolite Magneto
6 tooth drive sprocket
#72 25 Oregon Brand Chain - Drive Links 59 Pitch 3/8" Gauge .050"
BAR stamped 104 cutting length 16" overall length 18.5"
Identified Problems: Worn Gear sprocket (assuming it’s not supposed to be notched/grooved); missing starter assembly

Homelite 240 Chainsaw
Identification Sticker:
HOMELITE TEXTRON
UT NO. 10629
SER. NO. 6D2300005
ZAMA H4 26C Carburetor
Wabash Magneto
7 tooth drive sprocket
#61 BU Oregon Brand Chain -Drive Links 64 Pitches 3/8" Gauge .050"
HOMELITE POWER TIP BAR 013 HOMELITE PT-18371-F4 cutting length 18" overall length 20.5"
Identified Problems: Worn gear sprocket (assuming it’s not supposed to be notched/chipped/grooved); disconnected on/off switch lead.

Due to my inexperience I would appreciate to following information:

1). What is your opinion of these models a practical/serviceable machines (light/medium duty) for a urban homeowner?

2). Which is the superior machine?

3). How old are they?

4). Are they worth putting time/money into?

5). I have been able to download detailed illustrated parts list for these models but not a Service Manual / Guide or Owners Manual. Probably because these units where manufactured pre-internet. Anyone know a site these manuals can be downloaded from? I know photocopies and CD's are available but I'm to cheap to pay the asking price when the information I seek is at the local library (requiring some effort - versus free downloads - no effort) I am surprised to find libraries of these type manuals are not available at chainsaw aficionado sites like they are at other small engine
specialty sites (lawn mower, snow blower, etc.)

6). The Super EZ AO has about 2.5 times as many parts as the 240. Is this complexity good or bad?

7). The 240 illustrated parts list shows a chain brake. Was this an option or could it have been removed?

8). As OEM service parts will eventually be depleted, and this is the last chainsaws I will probably own, could you recommend a list of service parts for these models that you would keep on hand and I should obtain (filters? reed valve? carb parts? ???) Most maintenance parts seem to be readily available at present.

9). Would it be best to just try to start them right up, or better to partially disassemble to inspect the cylinder bore/piston for wear/scuffing scoring? Carbon buildup? Or some other procedure? (Units already disassembled for cleaning) Cylinder/piston look good from exhaust port/cylinder plug hole.

10). Would there be any advantage to change to a different drive sprocket on the 240 as three are available? (SPROCKET, DRUM & BEARING A97172B (.375-6T) (2 11/16" I.D.); A97056 (.325-8T) (2 11/16" I.D.); A95650B (.375-6T) (2 7/16" I.D.)

11). Any different bar/chain combinations that would be more efficient for these saws?

12). Although the answer is probably obvious, is any amount of gear sprocket wear acceptable? (see photo).

13), What is the current best method to lubricate the starter spring and container assembly to keep it from seizing/rusting. Grease, oil, silicone, or a high tech dry lube?

I did purchase a replacement starter assembly for the EZ Auto. Thinking it was an early model from its appearance, I obtained the one shown in the photo. I had a 50/50 chance of getting it right, so of course I got it wrong. Should have paid more attention to the applicable pulleys. Oh well... ...live and learn.

Any assistance would be appreciated.
Thank you.
(Sorry for the crappy pictures - my Sony SureShot is shot!

 

[Brian VT]

Those look to be in decent shape. Can't go wrong for $5.
I wouldn't put a ton of money into them, but I'd try to get them up and running
if they don't need any expensive parts..
Either of those, in running condition, would probably sell for @ $50.

The recoil spring area shouldn't need any lube. If it's clean and still not working well then the spring is probably shot.

 

[lawnmowertech37]

Never use silicone to put on a spring unless you want it to lock up for good

fluid film works ok for that application but normally you wont need this if the spring is good still what causes springs to mess up is rust build up on the spring if it is not working consider changing the spring out



by the way welcome to the site
calvin

 

[DSS]

The super e-z is a better saw than the 240, IMO. Parts are everywhere, including my garage. If the piston looks good, try to start it. It will probably need new fuel lines and a carb cleaning and/or kit at minimum.

Your sprockets look fine, nearly new I would say.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The super e-z is a better saw than the 240, IMO. Parts are everywhere, including my garage. If the piston looks good, try to start it. It will probably need new fuel lines and a carb cleaning and/or kit at minimum.

Your sprockets look fine, nearly new I would say.

I agree. The super ez is the better saw. Maybe a bit heavier but not much and parts are more readily available for the super. I really don't think the 240 is all that bad, though. I'd probably try to fix them both.

 

[knockbill]

I agree. The super ez is the better saw. Maybe a bit heavier but not much and parts are more readily available for the super. I really don't think the 240 is all that bad, though. I'd probably try to fix them both.

welcome ...
i don't have a sez,, but teh 240 i have gets a lot of firewood use,,, its pretty easy to work on, i opened teh muffler on mine, (if you use teh search button at teh top of teh page you will find teh post), rebuilt the carb, and put a 16" bar on it,,, tehy were made in at least 3 different models, the newest has a chain brake, and teh clutch/drums are different sizes to compensate for the brake,,, they have a funky diaphram oiling system, so make sure its working so you don't burn up the bar & chain...
good luck....

 

[lawnmowertech37]

welcome ...
i don't have a sez,, but teh 240 i have gets a lot of firewood use,,, its pretty easy to work on, i opened teh muffler on mine, (if you use teh search button at teh top of teh page you will find teh post), rebuilt the carb, and put a 16" bar on it,,, tehy were made in at least 3 different models, the newest has a chain brake, and teh clutch/drums are different sizes to compensate for the brake,,, they have a funky

diaphram oiling system

, so make sure its working so you don't burn up the bar & chain...
good luck....

Yep they do

 

[MustXcape]

Thanks everyone for your responses so far.

I raised the question of the recoil spring because I found it saturated in bar oil like the rest of the unit. I typically wipe them down with a light oil like WD-40 before reinstalling to prevent rusting, but acknowledge that to much or the wrong lubricant type will cause sticking. There has got to be a better way.

I jumped the gun and instead of trying to start the units I have completely disassembled the 240 in order to clean out the oil/sawdust/wood chips and determine replacement parts needs. I stopped just short of taking apart the head/piston assembly as I was struck on how clean it was (no scoring at all). The EZ_AO has light scuffing but no scoring. It appears the previous owner knew how to care for their equipment (for a change), but I don't know if anything is wrong with them (other than the obvious. I will do a compression check next. What is an acceptable reading? Should I do a leak down test? If so, what is an acceptable reading?

I am also reluctant to disassemble the carburetors unless I determine it is a problem (they are very clean). Or as long as the units are apart should I rebuild them?

What also stuck me was that the EZ-AO saw had little wear to the bar and none noticeable on the 240. The chains where in good condition, although sharpened at least once.

 

[DSS]

Your compression should be 140 psi and up. The carbs may be all right, they are not hard to rebuild later if you find they need it.

Those old homelites are good saws, unique sound in the case of the ez-ao, and fun to run. Keep us posted.

 

[Ax-man]

I'll throw a reply in. What the heck .

The 240 I don't know much about but the EZ I do as i have had several of them.

The one in the picture with the blue coil is an electronic model, no points or condenser. These were the last models to be produced before production of the EZ line was stopped. There is a little more plastic in these models than the older ones that were all metal.

The EZ is a saw from the 70's and maybe into the early 80's. Sold mostly as consumer saws. Typical of the era, no anti-vibs, solid bodied saw. They are hard on the hands if your sensitive to vibrations from sawing wood.

Overall they are a good running, torquey little saw with a good bottom end for their class. They would have to be because they ran standard 3/8ths pitch .050 gauge chain on the bars and many of those bars were the hardnose bars.

I wouldn't throw a ton of money at them either if they aren't in good shape mechanically. If you picked them up for $5 you did ok. My experience with these saw is that they have been worn out mostly because the cylinders were chrome lined and showed alot of scoring on the cylinder wall and the pistons were also heavily scored. There was no Nikisal cylinder linings back then and two stroke oil wasn't as good as it today. You might have lucked out and picked up a good one, it happens.

 

[Bret4207]

Super EZ was a good little saw. A fuel filter, maybe a carb kit and some fresh fuel and chances are she'll light off. You can down load the carb makers shop manuals on line at-

http://www.zamacarb.com/tips.html

http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/

BTW- if you're an experienced small engine guy, chainsaws are a snap. Lots, lots easier than larger 4 strokes with electronics, governors, charging systems, etc.

 

[MustXcape]

Thanks everyone for your responses so far.

I have yet to do a compression test, vacuum test, or leak down test. While I was initially pleased by the free turning crank/piston and clean cylinders, I have now found the EZ-AO has a frozen choke, chain oilier, and compression release valve. The 240 is completely disassembled and looks good for reassembly except for the gear sprocket and minor parts that apparently vibrated loose and were lost. This raises more questions:

1). the hoses on the EZ-AO are hardened and need replacement. What is best to use? Tygon is obvious for the fuel line, but what about the vacuum and oil lines. The local automotive store bulk product does not seem appropriate as I fear it will not hold up to the oil affecting it. Source?

2). Is it common or acceptable to have the drive sprocket wear/chip out to the point where there is a notch on each gear tooth as there is in mine? What level is acceptable? I would hate to replace the sprockets more than necessary as they wear.

3). The oil tank on the EZ-AO contains old oil that smells strongly like fuel, is darker and thinner in viscosity than new, and has black particulate matter dispersed throughout it. Is this indicative if anything? Should I be concerned?

 

[lawnmowertech37]

I have yet to do a compression test, vacuum test, or leak down test. While I was initially pleased by the free turning crank/piston and clean cylinders, I have now found the EZ-AO has a frozen choke, chain oilier, and compression release valve. The 240 is completely disassembled and looks good for reassembly except for the gear sprocket and minor parts that apparently vibrated loose and were lost. This raises more questions:

1). the hoses on the EZ-AO are hardened and need replacement. What is best to use? Tygon is obvious for the fuel line, but what about the vacuum and oil lines. The local automotive store bulk product does not seem appropriate as I fear it will not hold up to the oil affecting it. Source?

2). Is it common or acceptable to have the drive sprocket wear/chip out to the point where there is a notch on each gear tooth as there is in mine? What level is acceptable? I would hate to replace the sprockets more than necessary as they wear.

3). The oil tank on the EZ-AO contains old oil that smells strongly like fuel, is darker and thinner in viscosity than new, and has black particulate matter dispersed throughout it. Is this indicative if anything? Should I be concerned?

the oil smells like fuel we need to find out what caused this to happen

sprockets can be used up to a certain wear on the sprocket mainly the closer to the center of the sprocket is time to replace a little wear will not hurt it at all

Tygon is ok for fuel line oil line is a special material

 

[JohnL]

Automotive vaccum line should be fine for vac lines if the size is right, IMO. They are made to handle oil/gas vapors. The oil line you want the pick-up end to stay below the oil when you tip the saw sideways. The original line is flexible and seeks the lowest part of the tank to keep the end submerged when you tilt it.

Gas in the oil tank. Gas may have been added to thin the oil or by mystake. On a few saws crankcase pressure is ported to the oil tank to push out the oil for auto-oiling, but that doesn't apply to this saw. I wouldn't worry about it, dump it, rinse out with gas.

Those sprockets are pretty worn, most people would replace, but if it were me I would keep using them unless you replace the chains, or they start to bind, or the chain won't hold the right tension. You could see if they offer rim-sprockets for the saws. You just replace the rim when it wears out.