Homelite Super 2 - parts and is it worth it to fix?

Rugged made
Wesspur
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Years ago picked up a Sup2 EZ pawn shop $60 looked new? Really liked the dual trigger top handle. We ran the crap out of it without any extra $$ until it gave up. Later bought new Stihl 020T but definitely pricey.

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hotshot said:
Read up, lots of Super2 service datum out there on Al Gore’s greatest invention called the internet, lol.
Click to expand...

"Lots" is understating it. There's so much information and so many Super 2 variations it makes it difficult to find out what applies & what doesn't to each model haha.

For those who have a running Super 2, how would you compare it to a newer light duty "homeowner" Stihl model, such as the MS 180 16"? Power, reliability, features like anti-vibration handle, etc

Think I'm going to spend the money on parts to get this thing running and as a fun project/learning experience, but depending on how reliable it is or other problems in a year or two, might consider buying a different saw in the future.
 
Apples and oranges. Both have their place as homeowner saws with the Stihl being specifically designed as such. The Super 2 is a more robust saw in all respects and if well maintained will outlast most owners. No way the Stihl would take the abuse of the Super 2 and keep on going. The Stihl carbs alone are admittedly only 40 hour carbs and frequently need replaced after only a few years. Granted, they're only $20~$30 carbs, but there ya go for a general quality comparison.

You probably wouldn't regret buying the MS180 for minimal duty homeowner use at its price point. On the other hand, you probably won't even think about buying one if you get the Super 2 sorted out and running right..., at least not for another 40-50 years. LOL You'll also have the pride factor that will put a smile on your face every time you use it.
 
People run Super 2, XLs etc for years with no maintenance or even with no air filter. They are simple to run and nimble...surprising power for a small saw. But you have to keep in mind these were designed in the late 70s so he tech is over 40 years old...and homelite changed hands many times after Textron.

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So got all of the replacements parts installed - new fuel/oil lines, duckbill valves, air filter, spark plug, and cleaned/rebuilt the HDC27 walbro carb.

Reinstalled everything and the saw starts up right away, but seems to run erratically. As in idle speed will be all over the place and quite frequently will stall out. The strange thing is, it seems like the low speed adjustment screw isn't doing a whole lot and RPMs jump all over regardless of where it's at.

The only thing I didn't replace in the carb was that little floating, disk check valve thing that sits under the circle gasket plate. If this piece isn't functioning (deformed, swelled up from carb cleaner, etc), what are the symptoms? Any other ideas?

Also, the cork gasket on the caps aren't sealing. I tried rubber o-rings in the caps and I thought they were sealing well, but the bar oil has a tiny trickle out the cap when under pressure. Should I be looking to try a flat rubber washer the same size as the old cork gasket?

gasket.jpg
 
Probably a vacuum leak. Surging idle and won’t hold a tune are signs. Keep with it. These guys will help you get it straightened out and that saw will be a nice conversation piece next time you cut firewood for s’mores
 
Does your carb have 3 needles...hi/lo/idle or just one mixture and idle?

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dtbingle,

It could be that the check valve is shot, as it affects idling if pulling air back into the metering chamber.

Just remove the engine & carb, then test it. Sip & puff on a piece of fuel line held firmly in place over the check valve.

While the engine is out, I‘d perform a pressure/vac test to ensure that the clamshells seam & crank seals don’t leak. Use old inner tube rubber pieces to seal under the muffler & carb base. Homelite used black RTV on the cases, so leaks there are not uncommon after 30+ years.

Oil tank cap has to have a very good seal, it’s worth a try to make a washer from cork or a rubber sheet. Homelite also updated the cap/tank designs from your early version, going to a better internal thread on the caps & external on the tanks.
 
Yep, just a fuel mixture screw and the idle adjustment screw...it's an HDC 27 walbro carb. Owner's manual suggests seating the fuel mixture needle completely, and then backing off 1 1/4 turns for a starting point. For the idle adjustment screw, it says start with "its present setting". I just did a few turns counterclockwise on the idle screw to slow it way down and then slowly brought it back up while running to try and tune.

When the carb was rebuilt, I "pressure tested" by blowing into a fuel line hooked up to the carb. The needle seems to seat/open properly, and then retested after the metering diaphragm was on and the needle still sealed/opened properly when poking at the exposed metal button on the diaphragm. However, I wasn't sure how to test that floating check valve flap other than poking it a couple times - your idea is much better haha.

Compression is at ~130 psi after 3-4 pulls, but I will do a pressure/vac test while looking at common culprits of the engine clamshell RTV seal and crankshaft seals. How do you suggest hooking up a mityvac to pressure/vac test? Looks like it's mostly done with the impulse port on the carb, but this one doesn't have one.

As for the oil tank cap, since the rubber o-ring style isn't sealing well enough, I'll go back to the flat sealing washer type. Is there any benefit to finding/making a cork replacement washer vs. getting a rubber flat washer of the same size?

IMG_5188.jpgcarbadj.PNG
 
I always hook up to a hollowed out spark plug with a barb fitting epoxied into to it.

That looks like an early plastic cased saw, so you may can use the oil tank impulse supply line barb at the case, if it has the early diaphragm type pump oiler.

The farthest away fitting on the oiler pump casting is a direct shot into the crankcase.

If the oil tank impulse comes from a carb fitting, then you’ll need to make the modified spark plug. The Husky 503844002 adapter is too spendy.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-T...4750a85671ea8e35439c|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2334524
 
Did you try to stray from the initial low speed mix setting? I like to tune these just a shade rich down low, the idle will wander if its lean

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Definitely revisit the that carb check valve as suggested. I would personally use cork (or hybrid FelPro cork/rubber) to fashion gaskets for the caps.

As for a vac test insertion point, you can use either the intake or the spark plug location by fashioning an insertion point intake block-off plate with a hose barb from aluminum stock (or whatever may be handy), or gut a spark plug and install a barb or piece of hose sealed well with RTV. I'm pretty sure the latter should be a tapered seat plug vs. flat for your particular saw, or if using a flat seat/gasketed plug base, the gaskets (washers) should be removed and replaced by an 'O' ring for sealing against the cylinder.

And with a vac/pressure test under your belt, you'll have that rascal pretty well covered. You certainly seem to have the determination to conquer the beast no matter where the test results take you..., and will be working on another old saw before you know it!

1119200950_resized.jpg​
 
Thanks for the suggestions all. We'll see how these items check out.

Very good point on the oil lines. It's the magnesium case saw, with an oil line coming from the crankcase into the oil tank with a duckbill valve. I'd assume I can just disconnect this oil line from the crankcase fitting and pressurize/vac from there after sealing the exhaust/intake ports.

PogoInTheWoods said:
You certainly seem to have the determination to conquer the beast no matter where the test results take you
Click to expand...
'Determination' is one word.......'stubborn' is another :laugh:
 
I'd be inclined to eliminate/block the oil pump circuit altogether for initially checking the case integrity unless there is no oil pump at all and the case pulse hose goes directly from the case into the tank with the only other hose going from the tank to the bar pad. Otherwise, you could be chasing your tail with a leaky oil pump gasket, torn pump diaphragm, poor fitting hose(s), etc. I believe there may also be an internal check valve of sorts for the direct case port (aside from the duckbill) to minimize any impact on the saw's performance if the oil pump circuit or duckbill should go south. A leaky crankshaft seal would be nothing by comparison if there were a direct path from the case to the outside via the pump hose / circuit (or lack thereof) and these saws would be burning up left and right from leaky oil cap and missing duckbill air leaks instead of living forever.

Just thinking out loud here.... There are several variants of oil delivery systems for these saws. Each with their own peculiarities. A tight case will be a tight case regardless of which oiling arrangement is involved. Once that is established, chasing any oiler problems is cake as the attached diagram clearly illustrates. LOL

Small Homie Oiler.jpg​
 
Very good video.

From prev experience working on Super 2's I really doubt that he has a crankcase leak, but when one is erratic or any chainsaw I always check such BEFORE doing other tests.

Quite common for the E's to have crankcase leaks.
 
Still have to check out the engine side, but the check valve is working great.

Since the carb was out and my mityvac finally came in, I pressurized it with the mityvac instead of just blowing into it and discovered a large leak between the carb housing and the fuel pump cover. Using a straight edge, I can definitely see that the surface carb housing on the fuel pump side has a good warp in it.
  1. Is trying to lap the fuel pump side carb surface worth it? If so, what's a good way to do it?
  2. An alternative would be using a gasket sealant, like the Permatex copper spray-a-gasket or the Permatex high tack brush-on gasket sealant. If using sealant, what surfaces would you apply it to before reassembling? There's the:
    1. Carb housing surface
    2. Fuel pump diaphragm
    3. Fuel pump gasket
    4. Fuel pump cover

IMG_5296.JPG
 

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