Homelite Super EZ Auto help - won't start, what to fix & how to run?

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GirchyGirchy

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Guys,

Was hoping for some help with my dad's old Super EZ Auto. It appears to be a 1974 model - the plate has a Lot # (6037) and Serial # (43106627) but no UT#. I grew up with this thing and he gave it to me a few years ago as it was no longer needed. It hasn't been run in at least five years, but I'd like to get it running again and keep it going for occasional home use.

Last time I messed with it, I replaced the plug and it fired up once, and quickly died. Here's what I'm thinking needs to be done, at minimum:

- rebuild the Walbro HDC carb
- new air/fuel/oil filters
- new fuel lines
- clutch plate (is missing)
- clean everything
- check spark
- check compression

It leaks a good bit, so I was thinking of changing some of the O-rings and oil pump seal.

Not sure about the clutch - as mentioned, the plate's not there. BTW this is the single-piece "S" shaped clutches. There are heavy gouges in the drivecase cover from the clutch and/or drum rubbing against it. I noticed there's around 1/8" of lateral play in the sprocket & drum, which seems heavy. So I'm thinking that, once the clutch plate's on, the mounting bolts will rub the inside of the drivecase as well. I know the clutch was replaced a few years back so something may not have gone back together correctly. Anything in particular to look for here?

Anything else to think about - reed valves, crank seals, rings, etc? I'd like to tear it down pretty well all the way to get it all cleaned up and purty, so if there are typical things on these saws which typically will be broken/will break, I may just replace them.

Finally, any tips for where to order parts would be great.

Thanks all, let me know if more information's needed!
Brian
 
chainsawr.com will have alot of the parts you need others youll have to get from a member on here. My super ez auto is in a box right now have a spare piston make an offer ran last time it was put together...
 
Re

That lateral play might be a crankshaft gone bad. See if you can move the crankshaft by hand. This can be done simply by trying to move the flywheel off it's axis and seeing if the clutch side moves the same way at the same time. If not it's probably something worn like a needle bearing. Good luck!
 
That lateral play might be a crankshaft gone bad. See if you can move the crankshaft by hand. This can be done simply by trying to move the flywheel off it's axis and seeing if the clutch side moves the same way at the same time. If not it's probably something worn like a needle bearing. Good luck!

Edit: I get you now. The clutch is solid, it's the sprocket & drum that's wobbly, both laterally and longitudinally. I'd imagine the crank's ok, but the needle bearing that the sprocket & drum's on is bad.

BTW, a post should be forthcoming with pics of the piston. Looks like a scored spot but not much else.
 
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Is the flywheel the same thing as the drum & sprocket? It so, clutch remains solid, but the flywheel's pretty sloppy, both laterally (along the crank's axis) and otherwise.

BTW, a post should be forthcoming with pics of the piston. Looks like a scored spot but not much else.

Sounds like you need to find a new project saw. This one is a money pit........
 
Well, still waiting on the other post to be approved (had links to Flickr pics), so hopefully uploading pics will work. Here's the piston and combustion chamber.
 
If the crankshaft is free from side play, it maybe that the clutch has unscrewed itself to damage the clutch cover. This is the only explanation for the damage on an EZ I acquired. check that there is a washer on the crank between the oil pump body & the needle bearing/sprocket drum, & on some models there is a washer inside the sprocket drum before you screw on the clutch if either or both[if fitted] are missing you will get excessive side play on the sprocket drum + again there may be a large washer/plate held by 2 small bolts screwed into the clutch to keep the clutch getting jambed with chippings, whatever renew the needle bearing & maybe the sprocket drum Chainsawr has down loadable IPL`s if you want to see what goes where & don`t have one
 
Ah, makes sense - that probably is what happened before. I'll try to remove the clutch and see what's on the other side. Any tips on how to get the clutch out? I think I read somewhere about putting some rope in the combustion chamber to block the piston from moving, and then maybe thread in two screws to the clutch and use a wrench on those?

BTW, found a source in town for parts, going to stop by this week to see what he has.
 

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