Homelite XL leaks oil

[TRI955]

That "gizmo" is something someone tried to make work,it doesn't belong there.The line just goes straight into the tank and then the little brass tube(which you don't seem to have, #40 on the parts list) is used to connect the duckbill to the pressure line.You will have to improvise a connector since I don't think the originals are available anymore.(Have you flushed out the oil tank,swishing a little fuel mix around in it?A lot of times the little lost tube shows up in the bottom of the tank,so pour the mix out carefully while watching closely.It's a little bit of nothing and easily overlooked.)
If the tube doesn't appear when you flush the tank,a good substitute(according to Modified Mark)is the hard plastic/nylon line as used for oil pressure gauges.You only need about a half inch of it.

There could be a suitable piece of tubing hiding inside an old ballpoint pen in your "junk" drawer.

:agree2:
That does not belong there.....

 

[galde]

Your oil tank appears to have been modified for the threaded piece, resulting in an oversized hole in the tank. The factory setup had a hole through which the oil line passed (tightly enough to seal) and extended 3/8" or so into the tank. Into the end of the line was inserted a porous connector tube (Homelite # 69659). The check valve (Homelite #69451) was slipped over the end of the porous connector tube. The length of the connector tube exposed between the oil line end and the check valve can be varied to control the oil flow --- a small gap for higher tank pressure and a large gap for lower tank pressure to cause more or less oil flow. The porous tube allowed oil tank pressure to bleed back into the crankcase without allowing oil to enter the crankcase. These distances should be from 1/16" min to 1/8" max. The XL had no oil pump and used oil tank pressure to force oil directly to the bar. The XL2 and Super2 had a diaphragm pump that forced oil to the bar.

 

[doggerdan1]

Your oil tank appears to have been modified for the threaded piece, resulting in an oversized hole in the tank. The factory setup had a hole through which the oil line passed (tightly enough to seal) and extended 3/8" or so into the tank. Into the end of the line was inserted a porous connector tube (Homelite # 69659). The check valve (Homelite #69451) was slipped over the end of the porous connector tube. The length of the connector tube exposed between the oil line end and the check valve can be varied to control the oil flow --- a small gap for higher tank pressure and a large gap for lower tank pressure to cause more or less oil flow. The porous tube allowed oil tank pressure to bleed back into the crankcase without allowing oil to enter the crankcase. These distances should be from 1/16" min to 1/8" max. The XL had no oil pump and used oil tank pressure to force oil directly to the bar. The XL2 and Super2 had a diaphragm pump that forced oil to the bar.

OK, that makes sense. Will it still oil if I use a non-porous connector tube to connect the duckbill to the the hose?
The threaded hole in the tank is still small enough that it seals tightly around the oil hose.
Thanks

 

[HimWill]

OK let's try again,did you rinse out the oil tank as I suggested in post #20?There is a pretty good chance the connector fell out and is still in the tank.
Yes, it will work with a non-porous tube.

 

[doggerdan1]

OK let's try again,did you rinse out the oil tank as I suggested in post #20?There is a pretty good chance the connector fell out and is still in the tank.
Yes, it will work with a non-porous tube.

Yes, it's not in there.
I came up with a little tube that will work for a connector though.

 

[hotshot]

Replace it all

Doggerdan,
Lance (sells on E-Bay as extreme-zt240) had several of the whole tank kits & includes the special "field repair" 90° check valve located at the bar entry to eliminate your problems!

 

[doggerdan1]

Doggerdan,
Lance (sells on E-Bay as extreme-zt240) had several of the whole tank kits & includes the special "field repair" 90° check valve located at the bar entry to eliminate your problems!

I just checked that sellers items and don't see anything like that. I wonder if I could just put a little check valve in-line to the oiler.
Man I hate stuff that don't work right.

 

[hotshot]

Check Valve Resources

I didn't check for the Homie oil tank kit first, but you can always ask him (e-mail him through one of his current sale items) if he has any left. I had the same problem on a nwere Super 2 trim saw of my Dad's, and it immediately stopped the "after flow". The older Super 2s had the check valve integral in the crankcase behind the oil plunger diaphragm, then they "value engineered" (cheepened the design) & eliminated it. The check valve itself is part number is UP 07610 & is used on the late style UT-10694 series. Seller "A Plus Small Engines" in Florida probably has a check valve too.

 

[doggerdan1]

I didn't check for the Homie oil tank kit first, but you can always ask him (e-mail him through one of his current sale items) if he has any left. I had the same problem on a nwere Super 2 trim saw of my Dad's, and it immediately stopped the "after flow". The older Super 2s had the check valve integral in the crankcase behind the oil plunger diaphragm, then they "value engineered" (cheepened the design) & eliminated it. The check valve itself is part number is UP 07610 & is used on the late style UT-10694 series. Seller "A Plus Small Engines" in Florida probably has a check valve too.

I would think the check valve would need to be located in the oil supply line rather than the pressure line.
Here's a link to a valve that I think will work, it's at the bottom of page 477 under "check and vacuum breaking valves".
What do you think?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#check-valves/=2vi31a