Homelite Zip

[blsnelling]

I've the Zip all apart and in the dishwasher right now. I'm going to need a couple parts. I've only got three clutch shoes where it looks like there should be 6. The springs are junk as well. I'm also missing the piece that goes on the bottom of the carb with the fuel hose barb in it. I think a screen goes in there as well. I'll need the screw too. I'll also need a new air filter.

Three missing shoes and bad springs.

I'm missing the bottom piece of the carb.

Check out this nasty air filter!

The piston looks great.
Exhuast side.

Intake side.

 

[blsnelling]

Here's a perfect example of why I seriously recommend breaking an old non running saw down before attempting to start. Check out all of the carbon that would have likely damaged the piston when you fired it up.

Here's where it came from.

Check out all the nasty crud in the intake tract. Those are hard deposits on the right side.

Interesting throttle setup. The rod pushes on a lever on the carb.

More filth.

 

[blsnelling]

Keep in mind that this was a relatively clean looking old Zip. You never know what you'll find inside. It pays to make it right and get it all clean. Oh, the fuel tank had a fair amount of clear water in it too. Thankfully the crank isn't rusted.

 

[tomdcoker]

The rod does not push the linkage on the throttle .. The throttle shaft is spring loaded and when you pull the throttle trigger it releases pressure on it and the spring activates the throttle. When you reassemble the saw the hook will go in front of the roller on the throttle shaft. Tom

 

[blsnelling]

The rod does not push the linkage on the throttle .. The throttle shaft is spring loaded and when you pull the throttle trigger it releases pressure on it and the spring activates the throttle. When you reassemble the saw the hook will go in front of the roller on the throttle shaft. Tom

Thanks for the tip. Something was not right before disassembly, so the throttle wasn't working. It could be that the throttle is gummed up or the spring is missing. I haven't yet investigated it.

 

[GASoline71]

Brad... here is the thread where I rebuilt the Tilly HL carb in my Zip... hope it helps.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=64450

Gary

 

[ents]

Gary,

That carb rebuild thread is excellent. I saw it elsewhere. Very timely for me too.

Later,

 

[blsnelling]

Brad... here is the thread where I rebuilt the Tilly HL carb in my Zip... hope it helps.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=64450

Gary

That is an excellent thread Gary! You helped me sort out my mixed up needle screws! I've done a Tilly HL before when I did my 08S. It turns out I had another rebuild kit and installed it in the Zip today. The reason my throttle didn't work is because the linkage wasn't behind the carb like it has to be.

The saw is completely cleaned up, tank halves resealed, cylinder and piston decarboned and all back together. Everything went pretty smoothly. Unfortunately it does not have spark. Points are clean and gapped to .015" as marked. I'm not an expert here at all. Should I try a new condensor first? Can the condensor or coil be tested with a digital multimeter? That's the only electronic tool I have.

I'm going to need a few parts to finish this up. Let me know if you can help me out here.

1. Carb base/inlet for Tillotson HL
2. Screen just under the carb base
3. Screw for the carb base
4. One screw that bolts the air inlet to the carb front - 80624
5. 4 screws the bolt the recoil shroud to the saw - 80577
6. 4 screws the bolt the recoil to the recoil mount - 80864
7. Condensor - 55987
8. Both clutch springs - 55123-C

Here it is all cleaned up.

Notice the missing recoil bolts, carb base, and air inlet screw.

 

[blsnelling]

Here's the ignition that is not sparking at all. I unhooked the kill switch to make sure it wasn't that. How do you recommend I tackle this ignition problem?

 

[blsnelling]

I forgot to mention. This saw had two base gaskets in it. I removed one of them. I checked the squish and it's still greater than the .040" solder I measure with. The gasket I removed was .024". That thing had some crazy squish for sure!

 

[lawnmowertech37]

Here's the ignition that is not sparking at all. I unhooked the kill switch to make sure it wasn't that. How do you recommend I tackle this ignition problem?

brad get me a serial # off the saw i will see what points it takes they show different ones depending on the serial # off the saw is what i need to tell which one i do know i have some here now as to the coil replacement can you tell if that zip has the original rotor or a replacement ?
cause my zip ipl shows the coil with a explanation beside it that says the coil part # 55986A may be used with original rotor without "-A-" suffix new rotor ( with "-A" suffix ) requires New coil

so what ever they mean by that is something i am puzzled with but the condenser is the same on all them no matter what serial # part # 55987

the points will be determined which serial # you have its either A58165 or A55971 so need that serial # now these zips are hard to find parts for aint they ?

i do know i have at least 1 condenser and 2 coils will know about the points as soon as we confirm which one you have

thanks
calvin

 

[blsnelling]

What are the chances of it needing a coil or points? The points are clean. Do coils go bad often? What about the condensor? I'll be back with the serial #.

 

[blsnelling]

 

[blsnelling]

I just found a complete clutch for sale on eBay and it only has 3 shoes as well. That's weird since the spider has room for 6. I still need the springs though.

 

[crane]

Here's a perfect example of why I seriously recommend breaking an old non running saw down before attempting to start. Check out all of the carbon that would have likely damaged the piston when you fired it up.

Here's where it came from.

That was a great lesson! Will never look at a "clean" used saw the same again. Great pics, great thread.

 

[ents]

My 7-19 shows 6 shoes. Sure looks like the same clutch.

 

[lawnmowertech37]

yep your series is series B which is the A58165 points set
my store shows $ 62.93 for the 55986 cause Homelite still has them in stock but since i have 2 of them my price list shows $ 40.40 so until them are gone that is what im charging is the $ 40.40 for the coil

the condenser is the actual phelon part which is 02993
the A58165 pts i will check to see if i have another one should be tommorrow evening



but i sent you a email along with a copy of a ipl for the zip chainsaw that i figured would help you find the part #s you need helps locating the parts easier for you


clutch spring part # 55123C http://www.cmsmallengines.net/clutch-spring-55123a.html

 

[blsnelling]

Here's the updated parts list with PNs. Thanks for the IPL Calvin!

1. Carb base/inlet for Tillotson HL
2. Screen just under the carb base
3. Screw for the carb base
4. One screw that bolts the air inlet to the carb front - 80624
5. 4 screws the bolt the recoil shroud to the saw - 80577 x 4
6. 4 screws the bolt the recoil to the recoil mount - 80864 x 4
7. Condensor - 55987
8. Both clutch springs - 55123-C x 2

BTW, the 600D uses the same spider with 6 shoes. The Zip only uses 3 shoes.

 

[lawnmowertech37]

Here's the updated parts list with PNs. Thanks for the IPL Calvin!

1. Carb base/inlet for Tillotson HL
2. Screen just under the carb base
3. Screw for the carb base
4. One screw that bolts the air inlet to the carb front - 80624
5. 4 screws the bolt the recoil shroud to the saw - 80577 x 4
6. 4 screws the bolt the recoil to the recoil mount - 80864 x 4
7. Condensor - 55987
8. Both clutch springs - 55123-C x 2

BTW, the 600D uses the same spider with 6 shoes. The Zip only uses 3 shoes.

brad the 80864 screw i have only 3 that i know of maybe more i still have two boxes unacounted for as what parts are in it etc. the good news is almost there on finding everything you need

 

[blsnelling]

How about the clutch springs and carb parts?