Homeowner: Safety Chain vs Regular

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Fiore Indiana

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Hello guys, I want your advice. I have .325" .063" RM2 18" on MS260 & 3/8" .050" RM2 20" on MS361. I am thinking of getting more chain. Stihl: Safety or Semi Chisel or Duro. I would like to know pros & cons. I value your opinions. Thank you.
 
I'd go with the non-safety chain, but there is no *right* answer to your question. I don't see the RM2-style safety chain providing enough real safety benefit to make up for its slower cutting performance. That said, you should go with what you're comfortable with and what gets the job done for you.

Whether you go semi-chisel or round-chisel is your call. Match the cutter to the type of wood you're cutting - dirty or clean - and your personal preference for speed versus edge longevity. When in doubt I'd be inclined to err on the side of semi-chisel for its edge-holding abilities, even if the cutting is a hair slower.

There is no need to go with Duro/carbide chain under normal cutting circumstances. If you cut burl, roots, or are a fireman, then you probably need it. Otherwise, you likely do not.
 
Safety chains - good idea for newbies or if you let less experienced users run your saw. Yes it's safer, but it cuts slower and restricts your use of bore cutting when felling and bucking.

Semi or full chisel - cuts faster, lets you bore cut and is generally a good thing. Stihl USA recommend you dont use it, (so you cant sue them if you cut yourself) but are happy to sell it to you if you want it. ;) Choose these if you are confident with your technique and understand how to avoid kickback.

The duro and other carbide chains - for firemen and people who cut up walnut root balls looking for cool wood turning blanks. It costs an arm and a leg, you need a special diamond grinding wheel to sharpen it and it doesn't cut as fast as a normal chain in clean wood.

Cheers

Ian
 
safety chain

this chain cuts real good for me. It is RSC3 I think.
attachment.php
 
RM2 is in the process of being discontinued anyhow... RSC3, as pictured above replaces it and cuts almost as good as the full RSC (non-safety).

Not a good "dirty" wood chain though... RM (not RM2) is what I would use for general "on-the-ground" firewood cutting.


Edit: Both of the above are currently 3/8 only. For .325 you can get either RSC3 (safety chisel) or RMC3 (safety semi chisel).
 
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RSC3 looks like a good compromise, even though the ramps look a bit larger than on the original Oregon LP design.

Oregon also has semi-chisel chain of this design, and hopefully Stihl will join in........;)

I mostly use RSC and LP, but I keep some RM for dirty wood and stumps.
 
I'd stear clear of the safety chains. there a good idea for first time users but once you get use to cutting you don't nead to use them anymore.
 
What sort of cutting? I'm probably in a similar situation as you...homeowner and familiar with the saw but basically a hack. I have a MS250 and use two different chains the RMC3 (stock chain-safety) and a RS (full chisel standard chain). I use them in different conditions although they have both been used on similar wood (pine, maple, oak and beech). Here is what I think.

The RS cuts fast and is just a good clean wood chain, however the nose is a bit twitchy if you have to do a plunge cut (only had to do this twice) or are near the end of the bar. Noting bad but I had to plan it a little more. The RMC3 cuts almost as good but just a little slower than the RS. It is smoother and I was surprised the "comfort" actually worked. The plunge isn't as twitchy but you still have to watch the nose...kickback is reduced not removed (about 3 plunge cuts with the RMC3). As a homeowner, I notice some differences but I can't say the reduced kickback chain hinders what I'm cutting. I wouldn't go out of my way to find a safety chain but if it was there and the correct type I would probably buy it.

-Eric
 
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I use safety chain for carving, using the tip and plunge cutting a lot. I use non - safety chisel chain in the woods. Maybe get one of each and change the chain to fit your work condition. Having a spare chain is handy anyway!
 
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What about the performance of the RMC3? I have some of that in unopened packages. Would it still be a good bucking/limbing chain? If not, I guess I could try to move some on FleaBay.
 
What sort of cutting? I'm probably in a similar situation as you...homeowner and familiar with the saw but basically a hack. I have a MS250 and use two different chains the RMC (stock chain-safety) and a RS (full chisel standard chain). I use them in different conditions although they have both been used on similar wood (pine, maple, oak and beech). Here is what I think.

The RS cuts fast and is just a good clean wood chain, however the nose is a bit twitchy if you have to do a plunge cut (only had to do this twice) or are near the end of the bar. Noting bad but I had to plan it a little more. The RMC cuts almost as good but just a little slower than the RS. It is smoother and I was surprised the "comfort" actually worked. The plunge isn't as twitchy but you still have to watch the nose...kickback is reduced not removed (about 3 plunge cuts with the RMC). As a homeowner, I notice some differences but I can't say the reduced kickback chain hinders what I'm cutting. I wouldn't go out of my way to find a safety chain but if it was there and the correct type I would probably buy it.

-Eric



The RMC is not a safety chain - it's just the semi-chisel verison of the RSC (chisel comfort - which has replaced the RS except for old stock). The safety version is RMC3.
 
It cuts real good.. and is better for "on the ground" wood. I wish it was available in 3/8. Right now it isn't.

Man, am I glad! Haven't tried the RMC3 yet. I bought 5 chains off of ebay a few months ago, before I knew about this forum. I don't have to plunge cut very often, but I do have some Oregon chisel I use for that.

Sharpening: Do you just file the rakers as required or do the safety humps need to keep the same distance from the top of the raker as when they are new?
 
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Man, am I glad! Haven't tried the RMC3 yet. I bought 5 chains off of ebay a few months ago, before I knew about this forum. I don't have to plunge cut very often, but I do have some Oregon chisel I use for that.

Sharpening: Do you just file the rakers as required or do the safety humps need to keep the same distance from the top of the raker as when they are new?

The principle of the RSC3 and RMC3 has been used by Oregon for a long time.

The Oregon variants work very well for plunge cutting, but the ramps on the stihl ones look larger, and so do the rakers......:bang:

Just file the rakers as normal - no special attention necessarily for the ramps - just take them down with the rakers when the rakers doesn't protrude any more.;)
 
So what is the difference now between RM and RMC?
We're only just getting these new chains over here and I'd like to know from the experts, as the assistant in the dealer's shop doesn't know diddley. They sell 3/8 file kits to people with 3/8 picco chains!
 
Almost nothing... The RMC replaces the RM. Very slightly different and supposedly a smoother ride. I can't tell the difference in ride...
 

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