Hot blast enemy or friend

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!!!!!!!!!!! "DONT FOOL YOURSELF" !!!!!!!!!! chimney fires are always starting when the operator is over confident that their good to go and alls safe! check your flue every month and stay alive to see a second 55! !"WEAK UP" ........ BEFORE YOUR DEAD!
Chimney fires are awesome, its like a freight train in your living room lol, all serious though I do set one once a week and brush it every 2, I burn a lot of walnut though, 3 years running no problems here
 
Well here's image.jpg update on the tundra. It's been one week since I order the tundra and I'm very impressed for the money. Kicking my self for not doing the research and making the mistake on the hot blast last year. The hot blast was not doing what I wanted it to do. It would heat me out of the house I will say that but at the cost of a lot of wood as we all know. So last night after cutting some of my split wood down from 24" and re splitting so it fit into the tundra i installed a thermostat. Set it to a nice 72 for the misses and set the "sleep time at 10:00 to 68 so it would close the damper. Put five or six wrist size maybe slightly larger splits on. Woke a bit ago to a little be of hot coals enough to re start. Has was at 67. (Last night was 20 out) Very thrilled with this. As I learn what
amount and size splits to use at night this will probably get a lot better. Thank you all for the help and guidance on my change over!!!
 
Well here's View attachment 388401 update on the tundra. It's been one week since I order the tundra and I'm very impressed for the money. Kicking my self for not doing the research and making the mistake on the hot blast last year. The hot blast was not doing what I wanted it to do. It would heat me out of the house I will say that but at the cost of a lot of wood as we all know. So last night after cutting some of my split wood down from 24" and re splitting so it fit into the tundra i installed a thermostat. Set it to a nice 72 for the misses and set the "sleep time at 10:00 to 68 so it would close the damper. Put five or six wrist size maybe slightly larger splits on. Woke a bit ago to a little be of hot coals enough to re start. Has was at 67. (Last night was 20 out) Very thrilled with this. As I learn what
amount and size splits to use at night this will probably get a lot better. Thank you all for the help and guidance on my change over!!!
Better post your buddys pic on the firewood dog thread...:yes:
 
  1. Pretty sure I have the same problem you had laynes. Left home for about four hours and spotted this under the exhaust outlet of the stove..image.jpg
 
Yep! Looks like a liner is in order. When we had it, I was removing over a gallon of liquid a day.
 
Now Im hoping with a 8x8 chimney I can fit 6" liner and 1/2 insulation. The chimney is straight. Got a quote for $1100. Figured I'd do it myself tho to save a few bucks. Now my heat exchangers are lined with the same glassy stuff. Looks almost like glaze from wet wood. Now is this from the condensation?
 
Your heat exchanger shouldn't look like that. After loading, you should let the furnace come up to temp. There's also the possibility of poor draft (likely) and wood that's not quite seasoned. If your wood isn't seasoned, it will compound the problem with condensation.
 
Hard to figure out what the ( up to temp) is. Being that my top stack temp is 250 max. I know you all say this is normal for my type of stove tho. Hoping I can burn out that little bit of glaze in the exchangers. Only has been a few days with the new stove but it's apparent I have must have a draft problem as you said. Also the wood is fully glowing red all the way before I shut the damper.
 
When the damper closes, do the flames stay active? The heat exchanger is the coolest part of the system, so having some stuff there is normal. It doesn't mean the entire system looks that way.
 
The flames slow down and the secondary tubes light up and the lames sort of roll around towards the glass. Then about 5 to 10 minutes later the ghost flames ( white and blue) as I call em start coming off the wood here and there and all of a sudden the secondary's light up for a minute. So on and so on.
 
Sounds like draft. How tall is your chimney? If your chimney is not drafting right, the baro is only hurting things. Did you get the draft measured?
 
Manometer will be in my mail box tomorrow so i will have more answers then. Chimney is 35' exterior masonry. I kept some aluminum foil over the baro to close it off for max draft but this had no change in what I was seeing. The manometer will let me know a lot tomorrow night. Draft / static pressure. Now as for the draft the next few days will be almost 50 with rain in time Christmas I won't get a 32 night until Christmas night. I know the stove has to be operating temp before checking but should I wait for more cooler weather to see what's going on?
 
You can check it anytime, but the colder the more draft. I didn't realize your chimney was so tall, that's why it's condensing. Depending on the liner, a flex liner has a larger O.D than its listed diameter. If I was you, I would do what I did and go with a 5.5" liner. If your not seeing a difference with the baro capped, your draft isn't up to par. If I do that, the furnace turns into a forge.
 
Just dropped a tape measure down the flue 37 feet. Clay measures 7x7 inside diameter. I'm burning right now but I'm going to burn hot and let it go out before I turn in. What's the best liner out there. Really just wanna do this once and done while the Mrs is giving me the green light. She likes the warmth of the wood fire so I have that going for me
 
A 7x7 flue won't take a flex liner. A rigid liner would be the only option, and if you have any excess mortar in the chimney, the liner may hang up. Thats a tall chimney to keep warm. Have you tried burning the furnace without the barometric damper? The draft will spike when open but once it closes will drop. If your getting a manometer, test draft without the barometric damper. I would contact the manufacturer and ask for suggestions.
 
The black goop is from too much moisture in the wood . Tundras hate semi seasoned wood ,the drier the better . I don't doubt the draft could be more ideal but I'd guess it's more to do with your fuel . That liquid had to originate in the wood to begin with it or it wouldn't be there . After a big reload Let the door be cracked before you close it up and it'll help. If your wood is really seasoned and dry and you pack it up you can achieve incredible burn times if you play your cards right
 
What's the best liner out there
There are tons of good ones out there, pretty much take your pick. Just don't waste your money on a double wall liner (2 ply) I did, wouldn't do it again, single wall is fine.
I have heard of people with flues sized like yours getting an ovalized liner to fit. Don't discount the possibility of a 5.5" liner with 1/4" insulation.
Just find a couple feet of pipe (PVC cutoff?) the correct OD to drop down the flue to check that whatever you are looking at will actually drop down through without hanging up on a mortar joint. Some use a coffee can, but that will still zigzag it's way through obstacles that will stop a continuous piece of pipe.
The black goop is from too much moisture in the wood .
Likely true...but a properly sized/insulated liner will still help with the goop issue, a liner and truly dry wood is the cure all...
 
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