but maybe we can get a couple of semi safe ones.. you know like a large tree on top of your truck, or house type.... what about the dude that falls asleep while balancing on the tree he is trying to top?
fun things like this should not be forgotten.
How Does Dirt Dull a Chainsaw Chain?
- Thread starter samuelanali
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fun things like this should not be forgotten.
I remember that. What is the name of it....some about a narcoleptic tree trimmer
Here it is...
yep that him! some things are just too funny... have you seen any of the other ones of him at work?
You musta hit pieces of the Chinese spy balloon lodged in the tree after they exploded it.View attachment 1057297
“Cutting into dirt dulls a chainsaw chain” - I know that. ( In fact, I've lost 4 of my chainsaw chains this way!)
But I'm curious to know the SCIENCE behind it.
Dirt is soft, wood is much HARDER, then how come dirt dulls a chainsaw chain (almost) INSTANTLY?
This question might sound a bit “newbish,” but I'm sure there're some people here who want to know the same.
So, if you know the answer, HIT ME with it!
Also, any tips on how to prevent a chainsaw from hitting the dirt would be appreciated!
Happy Sawing!
Odd profession choice for a narcoleptic.
But...maybe better a narcoleptic than a junkie nodding off in the tree.
I dont think the poser has even replied to many or any of all these posts.
I think you guys might be referring to some hard-facing welding rod? Tube borium is far harder than a file. The best of files cannot even scratch that stuff.
Very fine grit can get imbedded into trees over time which will dull the chain when you cut the tree. Very common in areas which are down wind from sites that have a changing water table so the grit gets picked up and blown for miles... If you are cutting at dusk, you can actually see sparks coming off of your chain.
If the OP really has trouble understanding that dirt/grit/sand/loess, etc. can dull a chain, well, that sort of points to either a neophyte or a concern that perhaps they've been exposed to a variety of toxins, grit, etc. that have also had a dulling effect.
If the OP really has trouble understanding that dirt/grit/sand/loess, etc. can dull a chain, well, that sort of points to either a neophyte or a concern that perhaps they've been exposed to a variety of toxins, grit, etc. that have also had a dulling effect.
I have a feeling but of course cannot prove it that he is a bit of both.
I have seen a few. The guy is a true nut
alpine.forestry
New Member
Is this a joke? I really can't tell
Yes, the entire thread is a joke posted by a troll
Absolutely as I pointed out already IT threw the first question out and wont respond to anyone. I see what they are doing. The OP is not from Texas!
Stelite Cobalt , Tungsten Carbide & Chromium , Deloro & Boron all used extensively for various hardfacing & friction treatment applications . They are all very hard with minimal ductility properties . I have used Stelite extensively on earth moving equipment & have used specialty Eagle CDN grinding wheels to reshape & polish efficiently . Not cheap , but can reduce unexpected down time costs !
Harder brother lol.
Have Stellite 6 , applied to my grader board on my plow truck . Use to wear out board every 3 yrs . Now just touch up the edge when required !
Labour intensive to say the least brother , even with a large rod selection or mig spool gun application !
Try observing two teenagers for one season binding & burning up bars & chains , by not understanding proper cutting techniques for compression & tension bound logs , pretty well endorses my theory . I round / square goofy file & grind over 25-30 saw chains a week . Pretty easy to identify abused chain causation . Twisted & stretched sideplates & tweaked bars are rather obvious , compared to rocked working edge & point . lol.
Actually by the 80's the practice was pretty much over by professionals. What Del was hitting is stuff my Dad and Grand Father put in. It all wasn't just poured in either. Back in the 60's and 70's we were taking down trees that my Grand Father filled. Some cavities were 6' high and 2-3' wide. He would press forms into the concrete to make 4"X4" blocks, then put a layer of thin expansion joint material on top, and form the next row. The formed blocks were staggered and would look like brick work. They would let that "Set", then come back and pump or pour thin concrete in through a hole left at the top, to back fill the cavity. Finally they would make the last square at the top. In 1907 55 tons of cement were put into the Maryland Liberty Tree on St. Johns Campus. When I was at the UofMD in the 70's their Liberty Tree was still standing. Growing up in the tree business I was scared to death to walk under it. It had chunks of concrete in it the size of a VW bug. Click on the sentence below for Liberty info.
http://www.mcbridegallery.com/liber...iberty Tree, a tulip,critic of the Stamp Act.
