How I baby my 2 stoke motors.... 30-1 instead of 50-1

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No, I am not using the wrong oil! Oil burns hotter than gas!! Do your research!! Oil leaves more carbon buildup as well.
Running a bit richer is the only way to go, maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn on the low setting.

I have done my research, that's why I disagree with you.

I'm done with you.
 
No, I am not using the wrong oil! Oil burns hotter than gas!! Do your research!! Oil leaves more carbon buildup as well.
Running a bit richer is the only way to go, maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn on the low setting.
Better oils have detergents where some don’t. I’ve personally seen cleaner engines run with heavier oil ratios
 
I like giving people crap for thinking extra oil is good. I just never hear much on people adding more oil on a 4 cycle. What I seen on both engines if you add to much oil it just blows oil out every ware. I have a few Tecumseh 2 cycle engines the gas cap read 32 to 1 I mixed it that way. I would say the muffler should never rust out .For decades I just made one mix for all 2 cycles my old Lawn boy I start with either. I do have a clue about 2 strokes back in my outboard days I would hear a new camshaft would make it faster. And there was the fraction thing 50 to 1 was more than 32 to 1
Couple things. There is a big differance between a four cycle and a marginally lubricated engine like a 2 cycle.
If your blowing oil out the exhaust it's a tuning issue, a wrong oil issue or you aren't loading the motor enough.
 
Using more oil than factory recommended amounts on 2 strokes cause more heat and carbon buildup internally.
End of story.
No, it doesn't as it pertains to carbon deposits. I've seen motors ran at 16:1 that are about as clean as you can expect.
As for more heat. Maybe, maybe not. If you make more.power you generate more heat and load, tune and muffler have a much greater influence on heat than mix ratio by several degrees of magnitude.
 
No, I am not using the wrong oil! Oil burns hotter than gas!! Do your research!! Oil leaves more carbon buildup as well.
Running a bit richer is the only way to go, maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn on the low setting.
No, it's not...and for a variety of reasons.
Most of the carbon in a motor is caused by poor quality pump gas these days.
Even a Cycle motor will build up carbon..
 
No one believes this till they see it on a dyno or believe someone like you meantion. Only time I've ever putzed an engine around was to break in the cam. Other then that, it's warm it up and load it up. We dynoed every engine we built at the machine shop. Was pretty cool to watch all the guages while it broke in and give it full load. Let you know pretty quick if you did your part right or not.
Yep , never lug or putz any saw engine even once broken in keep it wicked up & varing the throttle out of the cut . It's air cooled worse thing you can do , is reduce the air flow over the power head for any prolonged period . What did you use on you new cam installations Sean , assembly lube or break in oil ? Run it like you stole it !
 
Yep , never lug or putz any saw engine even once broken in keep it wicked up & varing the throttle out of the cut . It's air cooled worse thing you can do , is reduce the air flow over the power head for any prolonged period . What did you use on you new cam installations Sean , assembly lube or break in oil ? Run it like you stole it !
Cam assembly lube. We got it from clevite. Thick, tacky red stuff. Clung like crazy. Always liked it. I actually used it for bearings as well. Never used a specific break in oil, unless it was a deere engine as they had a specific oil they wanted you to use. Other then that it got regular Dino oil. 4 hours on the dyno. Fluids drained, steamed off, painted if requested then made ready for shipping/installation.
 
Cam assembly lube. We got it from clevite. Thick, tacky red stuff. Clung like crazy. Always liked it. I actually used it for bearings as well. Never used a specific break in oil, unless it was a deere engine as they had a specific oil they wanted you to use. Other then that it got regular Dino oil. 4 hours on the dyno. Fluids drained, steamed off, painted if requested then made ready for shipping/installation.
Awesome Sean , yeah recall the Red Goo lol. I used it on a Ford Cleveland I rebuilt in my 1979 XLT . Roller lifter & cam assembly . After market valves & springs high flow oil pump Acel Coil Bendix adjustible high pressure fuel regulator & injectors system TRW fuel injection heads etc . I ran a break in oil for a short duration as recommended back then. I was running Valoline Durablend 10w-40 semi synthetic & wix gold oil filter. I put a lot of mills on that 351 short block lol.
 
I think the chemists who blend the oil and engineers who design the saws don't know what they are doing.

So, I listen to morons on forums.
You clearly haven't been around very many chemists or engineers..
Let's just say after witnessing many a cluster fuq started by those two professions I have limited faith in them. Good ones are few and far between.
 
You clearly haven't been around very many chemists or engineers..
Let's just say after witnessing many a cluster fuq started by those two professions I have limited faith in them. Good ones are few and far between.

So, you are thinking I should be more trusting of morons on an internet forum to determine what to run in my saws than the people who make them.
 

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