How sharp is sharp?

[BigOakAdot]

I bought a 440 off a guy here in PA with a 24" bar and chain. It was my first saw bigger than my 50 cc 261 and that thing was razor sharp. So sharp that it would almost pull out of my hands! If I wasn't holding up on the saw in the cut, the saw would bog completely out.

The guy was a character and wouldn't surprise me if he had almost completely filed down the rakers. Not sure what else could cause this.

I can't remember the name of it, but my
Friend who is a full time climber has a sharpening tool that mounts to the bar. It looks just like a pencil sharpener. Sure seems like a neat little tool but I'm not sure if he ever figured it out.

I've been hand filing as of late and I feel like I'm OK at it. Considering I'm using a 41" bar most of the time, I'm already sick of hand sharpening chains. In your guys opinions, what is the best most economical option if you're not going to hand sharpen?

 

[ATH]

You are probably talking about a Timberline: http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...uides/Timberline-Chainsaw-Chain-Sharpener.axd

I want one...but not $100 worth of want.

 

[Jackbnimble]

I bought a 440 off a guy here in PA with a 24" bar and chain. It was my first saw bigger than my 50 cc 261 and that thing was razor sharp. So sharp that it would almost pull out of my hands! If I wasn't holding up on the saw in the cut, the saw would bog completely out.

The guy was a character and wouldn't surprise me if he had almost completely filed down the rakers. Not sure what else could cause this.

I can't remember the name of it, but my
Friend who is a full time climber has a sharpening tool that mounts to the bar. It looks just like a pencil sharpener. Sure seems like a neat little tool but I'm not sure if he ever figured it out.

I've been hand filing as of late and I feel like I'm OK at it. Considering I'm using a 41" bar most of the time, I'm already sick of hand sharpening chains. In your guys opinions, what is the best most economical option if you're not going to hand sharpen?

I hate wasting time. So, when I have a major project to do in the John, I take advantage of the opportunity and sharpen my chains. Depending on how big the workload is, I can completely sharpen a 91 drive link chain sitting down on the job.

 

[Jackbnimble]

There are other ways to start without drop starting...

But I start my bigger saws on the ground all the time. Just hold it down with the toe of you boot... Don't need to put you whole foot through.

I must have big feet. I can't even jam a toe far enough in there to hold the saw steady and pull on the starter cord simultaneously.

 

[Jimbo209]

I must have big feet. I can't even jam a toe far enough in there to hold the saw steady and pull on the starter cord simultaneously.

I take sz 17/18 Nike basketball boots and the steel blues I work in won't fit the toe cap.
Manual has ground or clamp handle in legs to start. But the stock 660 starts well enough with decomp on the ground which I prefer to flapping around the 32/36 even if doable.

I had a builder from Victoria point out that 2-3 pulls on full choke then half x2 to start the 660 should work which had fixed some of the many pull starting sessions

 

[Jimbo209]

As for the chain. I prefer to touch up over my lap on the job and fix later,
1-2 lite strokes to avoid it going dull. And ground trimming even less to avoid forcing through the cut.

Have you checked the chain pictures in milling and the hot rod section, the glint/reflective edge makes a big difference and can be sharp with glint but not super sharp.

Also there are a few chain build off threads with pictures, one was linked here but on another site.

 

[Philbert]

I couldn't fit my foot, shoe, boot into that tiny opening if I cut off 4 toes. Can anyone crunch their foot in there?

There are other ways to start without drop starting...Just hold it down with the toe of you boot... Don't need to put you whole foot through.

I have seen newer videos, from Husqvarna and others, which say that if you can't get the toe of your boot through the handle on the flywheel side, you can put the heel of your boot down on the wide, flat part of the handle on the clutch side. I usually use the toe of my boot as far as it will go on the flywheel side, if ground starting.

Philbert

 

[Jackbnimble]

Download (or read) the Owner's Manual from the STIHL website. It is different on each saw, and really hard to explain. The manuals have pictures.

Philbert

I moved the slide to the right location and now it idles fast. Not sure if the two are connected. Chain keeps spinning after releasing the throttle, not terribly fast, but it doesn't stop spinning, either. I hate to mess with the idle control screws. I have just enough finesse to blow the saw to kingdom come.

 

[Jackbnimble]

As for the chain. I prefer to touch up over my lap on the job and fix later,
1-2 lite strokes to avoid it going dull. And ground trimming even less to avoid forcing through the cut.

Have you checked the chain pictures in milling and the hot rod section, the glint/reflective edge makes a big difference and can be sharp with glint but not super sharp.

Also there are a few chain build off threads with pictures, one was linked here but on another site.

Thanks for the advice. I will check out those spots.

My shoe size is 15. I thought I had big feet until you came along! I prefer the drop and yank method because I just can't coordinate pulling on the starter rope and holding the saw in place on the ground very well. But, at least she starts and man does it love to maul through wood. Sharp cutters are a blast. The difference between razor sharp and so-so sharp is pretty amazing. Hardly have to work at all when they are cutting with maximum efficiency. (I don't get them razor sharp very often, but often enough to keep me encouraged to continue practicing my technique.)

 

[JeffGu]

...has a sharpening tool that mounts to the bar. It looks just like a pencil sharpener....

That sounds like the Timberline sharpener... I have two of them, and love them. I keep the first one I bought with the jobsite tools, at the shop. This new one is for here at home, so here's some pics while it's all shiny and new. Does this look like what your friend has? It is a very well made device that works great. I could teach a monkey to use it in ten minutes. You just have to read the instructions and play with it for awhile, and it becomes almost reflexive... and fast. There are subtle nuances to getting the hang of it, but really, halfway through the first old chain you try it on, you'll have it down.

 

[Jimbo209]

Thanks for the advice. I will check out those spots.

My shoe size is 15. I thought I had big feet until you came along! I prefer the drop and yank method because I just can't coordinate pulling on the starter rope and holding the saw in place on the ground very well. But, at least she starts and man does it love to maul through wood. Sharp cutters are a blast. The difference between razor sharp and so-so sharp is pretty amazing. Hardly have to work at all when they are cutting with maximum efficiency. (I don't get them razor sharp very often, but often enough to keep me encouraged to continue practicing my technique.)

Limbing small branches 18" .325 .063 >80% to super Sharp, yes the bigger bars I'll let go a bit longer and hold softer as there is more work to complete a 24"+ chain and it will only be a stroke or 2 more

 

[BigOakAdot]

That sounds like the Timberline sharpener... I have two of them, and love them. I keep the first one I bought with the jobsite tools, at the shop. This new one is for here at home, so here's some pics while it's all shiny and new. Does this look like what your friend has? It is a very well made device that works great. I could teach a monkey to use it in ten minutes. You just have to read the instructions and play with it for awhile, and it becomes almost reflexive... and fast. There are subtle nuances to getting the hang of it, but really, halfway through the first old chain you try it on, you'll have it down.

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Yeah that's the one. I just watched the video on baileys website. Seems easy enough to use. My one question is can you change the angle you wish to file a tooth? I do a lot of milling now and would preferrably have one that can do both 45 and 10 degree angles....

 

[bikemike]

That sounds like the Timberline sharpener... I have two of them, and love them. I keep the first one I bought with the jobsite tools, at the shop. This new one is for here at home, so here's some pics while it's all shiny and new. Does this look like what your friend has? It is a very well made device that works great. I could teach a monkey to use it in ten minutes. You just have to read the instructions and play with it for awhile, and it becomes almost reflexive... and fast. There are subtle nuances to getting the hang of it, but really, halfway through the first old chain you try it on, you'll have it down.

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On the mounting block do they have a bearing for the hone to ride in or is it just a hole

 

[JeffGu]

The angle guides are a replaceable aluminum bushing... cone shaped where they go into the body, and held with a hex set screw.



You can also get a set of them that allow you to grind 25 or 35 degrees (the set handles both) instead of the 30 degrees with the standard set that comes with the unit. They are $12 for the set.



As you can see, this set is just like the stock ones, but the pathway for the carbide is drilled at an angle. The depressions for the set screws are drilled so that using one gives you 25 degrees, or turning it and using the other will give you 35 degrees.

Because it is the smooth part of the carbide shank that rides in the angle guide (bushing), and it's only turning at low speeds, a bearing isn't needed.