How To Become A Chainsaw Guru?

[Philbert]

Interesting, the Homelite manual says the chain type is a Low Profile Full Skip Tooth. That kind of goes against what I thought a full skip chain's purpose would be. Thought it would be more for long bars and greater chip clearing ability. Putting it on a weak saw with a short bar seems like an exercise if futility..

Skip tooth chains are also used with smaller saws, in order to fit them with longer bars, making them look like they are powerful saws.

Philbert

 

[Ambull01]

Skip tooth chains are also used with smaller saws, in order to fit them with longer bars, making them look like they are powerful saws.

Philbert

Why would it be on a 16' bar though? I'm probably just splitting hairs. Doesn't really matter what's on it I guess.

Got another person messaging me about having trees to buck up! I'm going to have so much wood to cut it will kill the Homelite.

 

[zogger]

Good. Get you a decent shape larger saw and be done with it. Go with the flow!

I can't even recommend a good deal on the tradin post here, there's tons right now!

 

[Ambull01]

Good. Get you a decent shape larger saw and be done with it. Go with the flow!

I can't even recommend a good deal on the tradin post here, there's tons right now!

They seem to go pretty quick though. Guys jump on them quick. By the time I figure out it's a good deal the damn thing will be sold.

 

[redfin]

The 365 that was mentioned earlier would be a great saw for you, plus the seller is a great fella to deal with.

 

[Ambull01]

The 365 that was mentioned earlier would be a great saw for you, plus the seller is a great fella to deal with.

The one for $250?

 

[Philbert]

Why would it be on a 16' bar though.

It's a common 'tactic' of saws sold at general merchandise saws. Consumers tend to think that an '18 inch' chainsaw is more powerful than a '16 inch' chainsaw, even if they have the same motor/powerhead. But if the bar is too long to cut well when fully buried in the wood, it causes a problem. Solution is to put a skip tooth chain on the larger bar. Some people might say that this is deceptive. Some people might say that this works.

What it means is that you need to consider displacement and horsepower when comparing two saws (along with a bunch of other stuff) and not just go by bar length. E.g. on Home Depot's website I can find 42cc Homelite chainsaw with a 14" bar (UT10640A), with a 16" bar (UT10660A), and the same saw with an 18" bar (UT10680A). Specs on line are the same, except for bar length. Given the choice, an uninformed consumer would assume that the 18" is a 'bigger saw'.

Philbert

 

[Ambull01]

It's a common 'tactic' of saws sold at general merchandise saws. Consumers tend to think that an '18 inch' chainsaw is more powerful than a '16 inch' chainsaw, even if they have the same motor/powerhead. But if the bar is too long to cut well when fully buried in the wood, it causes a problem. Solution is to put a skip tooth chain on the larger bar. Some people might say that this is deceptive. Some people might say that this works.

What it means is that you need to consider displacement and horsepower when comparing two saws (along with a bunch of other stuff) and not just go by bar length. E.g. on Home Depot's website I can find 42cc Homelite chainsaw with a 14" bar (UT10640A), with a 16" bar (UT10660A), and the same saw with an 18" bar (UT10680A). Specs on line are the same, except for bar length. Given the choice, an uninformed consumer would assume that the 18" is a 'bigger saw'.

Philbert

Those *******s, taking advantage of the average stupid home owner! I wonder if I would have looked at and compared the specs?

What brand and type of chain do you run?

 

[redfin]

The one for $250?

Yepper

 

[Philbert]

What brand and type of chain do you run?

I am happy to run Oregon, Carlton, STIHL, etc., chains, as long as they are matched to the saw and are sharp. I scrounge and rehabilitate chains for fun, so I have an eclectic collection. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/

If I was buying new chain for my use, and price was not a factor, I would choose full comp (not skip), semi-chisel, low kickback (the type with bumper drive links, not bumper tie straps) for most purposes.

Note that you can have several different loops of chain for one saw, for different purposes. You can have one for clean wood, one for dirty wood, one for frozen wood, one for stumps, etc. You don't always have to run the same chain. If you have a couple of different chain types, you can run them side-by-side and see what type of difference they make to you.

Philbert

 

[Ambull01]

Yepper

Thanks buddy. I need to research that model a little. Plus I need to look up what those defects could affect.

I am happy to run Oregon, Carlton, STIHL, etc., chains, as long as they are matched to the saw and are sharp. I scrounge and rehabilitate chains for fun, so I have an eclectic collection. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/

If I was buying chain for my use, and price was not a factor, I would choose full comp (not skip), semi-chisel, low kickback (the type with bumper drive links, not bumper tie straps) for most purposes.

Philbert

You scrounge for firewood and chainsaws/chains? Sounds like a full-time job.

I need to read more about chains. I understand about skip and semi-skip (well sort of understand), but not really sure the meaning of comp. Why would you purposely choose low kickback? Isn't low kick back just a chain with high rakers or whatever you call the part of the chain that controls depth of cut?

 

[Philbert]

I need to read more about chains. I understand about skip and semi-skip (well sort of understand), but not really sure the meaning of comp.

Check out the Oregon book I mentioned in Post #4. 'Standard' chain is called 'full complement' = right cutter, space, left cutter, space, etc. 'Full skip' = right cutter, 2 spaces, left cutter, 2 spaces, . . . As you can surmise, there are other combinations. 'Full house' is a specialty chain, mostly used for carving = right cutter, left cutter, right cutter, etc., with no spaces. Very fine cutting but no room to carry chips. 'Semi skip' chain is for guys that can't make up their mind = right cutter, space, left cutter, 2 spaces, right cutter, space . . .

Philbert

 

[Ambull01]

Check out the Oregon book I mentioned in Post #4. 'Standard' chain is called 'full complement' = right cutter, space, left cutter, space, etc. 'Full skip' = right cutter, 2 spaces, left cutter, 2 spaces, . . . As you can surmise, there are other combinations. 'Full house' is a specialty chain, mostly used for carving = right cutter, left cutter, right cutter, etc., with no spaces. Very fine cutting but no room to carry chips. 'Semi skip' chain is for guys that can't make up their mind = right cutter, space, left cutter, 2 spaces, right cutter, space . . .

Philbert

View attachment 376815

I actually read that Oregon book on Thursday at work, I promise. Didn't think it mentioned full comp. So a full comp chain is just a freaking standard chain. WTH don't they just say standard! Or regular! Damn they sure don't make cutting trees easy do they? I'm so confused about chains.

 

[Philbert]

Why would you purposely choose low kickback? Isn't low kick back just a chain with high rakers or whatever you call the part of the chain that controls depth of cut?

Kickback is a serious issue, and I work in safety. Too much to go into here, but look it up in the Oregon reference or Google it. there are several potential, contributing factors, and several control strategies that can be used together. A lot of guys complain about low kickback chain, but I find that it works fine for me if it is sharpened correctly. In addition to setting the depth gauges (aka 'rakers') correctly, low kickback chain usually has additional 'bumpers' to limit the likelihood of the upper quadrant of the bar nose catching on something (preventing an equal and opposite reaction - kickback).

Earlier versions of these chains had the bumpers on the tie straps, which interfered more with chip clearance and sharpening. Newer versions have the bumpers as part of the drive link, which aligns with the depth gauges, except when traveling around the affected portion of the bar nose.

Philbert


bumper tie strap



bumper drive link

 

[Philbert]

I actually read that Oregon book on Thursday at work, I promise. Didn't think it mentioned full comp. So a full comp chain is just a freaking standard chain. WTH don't they just say standard! Or regular! Damn they sure don't make cutting trees easy do they? I'm so confused about chains.

You are taking in a lot of information at once - 'trying to drink from a fire hose' as they say. You need to cut and try some of this stuff out.

Lots of things have different names. You don't need to know everything about chains - start with learning how to keep the ones you have sharp. I refer to the Oregon manual all the time, and learn something each time.

Philbert

 

[Ambull01]

Kickback is a serious issue, and I work in safety. Too much to go into here, but look it up in the Oregon reference or Google it. there are several potential, contributing factors, and several control strategies that can be used together. A lot of guys complain about low kickback chain, but I find that it works fine for me if it is sharpened correctly. In addition to setting the depth gauges (aka 'rakers') correctly, low kickback chain usually has additional 'bumpers' to limit the likelihood of the upper quadrant of the bar nose catching on something (preventing an equal and opposite reaction - kickback).

Earlier versions of these chains had the bumpers on the tie straps, which interfered more with chip clearance and sharpening. Newer versions have the bumpers as part of the drive link, which aligns with the depth gauges, except when traveling around the affected portion of the bar nose.

Philbert

View attachment 376816
bumper tie strap

View attachment 376817

bumper drive link

Oh I think I got it. Those pics are good. So the anti kick back devices keep the chain at a more level angle in wood instead of a drastic spike going from link right to cutting part. Clear as mud now

 

[Ambull01]

You are taking in a lot of information at once - 'trying to drink from a fire hose' as they say. You need to cut and try some of this stuff out.

Lots of things have different names. You don't need to know everything about chains - start with learning how to keep the ones you have sharp. I refer to the Oregon manual all the time, and learn something each time.

Philbert

True. I did say chainsaw guru not chain guru after all. I'm also not doing this for a paycheck so I shouldn't care too much about cutting speed. Have to keep reminding myself of this fact.

 

[Philbert]

Oh I think I got it. Those pics are good. So the anti kick back devices keep the chain at a more level angle in wood instead of a drastic spike going from link right to cutting part.

No.

The bumpers help to fill in the spaces between cutters at the nose of the bar - where kickback occurs.

Philbert

 

[Ambull01]

No.

The bumpers help to fill in the spaces between cutters at the nose of the bar - where kickback occurs.

Philbert

View attachment 376823

Oh yeah, that's what I meant lol. Just didn't explain it as well as you.

Crap I've had so much Halloween candy I may not be able to ever go to sleep. Serious sugar high.