How to cut LIMBER trees

[popwarlick]

The other day I had to take the top out of several pine trees. Southern pine,they hold a really good hinge without breaking. 100'my bucket is 72' which means I was popping around 30' .these trees are about 18in at tha base,up there bout 9". When I put in my notch (my normal) tree started over(I had to catch the tops)the trees being so limber followed the top,when the hinge finally broke, here comes the stem back toward me. I've popped hundreds of tops but really having trouble dodging the stem. Stems will actually pull 10' away before hinge breaks. I've tried cutting tighter notches to make the hinge break quicker. Not really making any difference. I've gotseveral more to do but I'm getting tired of trying to dodge 70' up. Anybody got any ideas if I'm doing it wrong or what. Never had this prob with stiffer trees.thanks Terry

 

[woodchuck357]

Seems like you need to use a jump cut

Put a narrow square notch about an inch to an inch and a half wide with a small humbolt at the very edge. The top starts to lean, cut almost thru the hinge, then the notch closes and snaps the hinge. The cut off top jumps and falls butt first. I used to use it quite a bit but the trees were measured in feet where I made the cut, not inches.

OOPS, I didn't notice the part about catching the tops. In that case the only thing I can think of is guy to other trees below your cut to reduce the whip

 

[popwarlick]

That's my only problem ,the trees that I would guy off to is going to be on the way of the top. I even thought of cutting a very thin notch,I meanvery,but the I lose the ability to get the tree commited to a direction because of limb weight ,lean.etc. Bucket Hyd.are not quick enuff to relyongettn you out of harms way. Had that happen yesterday,not good. Even thought about a real deep humbolt .What do y'all think

 

[B Harrison]

I have an idea, my arborist does this sometimes and its a pain in the but but its safe.

throw a line in the top of the top. Tie the base of the top with what ever your going to use to catch it and lower it. Make your notch like you have been then do your back cut with no tension on the high line, when you get to the point that the tree might be ready stop cutting and let a ground man pull the top over after you have gain a few feet clearance. My guy does this some times with stems, he leaves too much hinge then we pull over by hand to have control say 50% of the drop sometimes its a hard pull, but its a very controlled drop, in this case the weight of the top may slow spring back a little as well, or it might not work at all, but its an idea, and it will get you out of the way.

If you try that send me a pm and let me know how it goes, especially if its a "Hey, bad idea don't do it that way" I wanna know either way.

 

[popwarlick]

Gonna give it a try

I thought bout that the other day. I guess it would be a lil trial and error with the tree being so limber(cutting to the point of just enough). Just a thought ,cutting my notch,then backing off and cutting the back side with a pole saw. That would get me at least 10' to the side. Your idea sounds safer for sure.

 

[Carburetorless]

Make your notch, start your back cut, but don't finish it, then swing your bucket out of the way, and finish the back cut with a pole saw.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Have you maybe considered climbing it and taking out a smaller top? Seems like the obvious answer to me. Bet this guy wishes he had, those last couple of seconds.


http://www.arboristsite.com/arboricultural-injuries-fatalities/234394.htm

 

[imagineero]

There's lots of different ways of doing it, but you have to read each situation. I've knocked out some big tops in my time, and for me the safest way is a powerful saw, a real sharp chain and jump'em off the stem. Double so if it's a real flexy skinny tall narrow stem. I don't have a bucket, so I'm wearing it however it unfolds. In very tall, narrow flexible stems with little sail area, I'm going to put a good size face in there, 45* or more. But that face will never close. I'll make my face real clean, get it setup nicely. If it's a very flexy tree I might even cut out a little of the side fibre, but no more than an inch either side. Then I start my backcut, but not progressing it too quickly. As the top starts going over, I keep my revs full speed, and I'm watching the top. I keep it progressing all the time, but once it's commited, I'm all the way through. The release is very soft, if I had a cup of tea in my hands I wouldn't spill a drop. Timing is everything, and you don't want to release too early.

The 'square face' method with a snipe works fine on trees where the main stem isn't so wobbly, and I use it a lot on real big tops, with a solid strong stem. But you can't use it on flexy stems. The action of the top going over pushes the stem too far away, as you've already noticed, with a predictable result.

Shaun

 

[woodchuck357]

How were you catching the tops?

The other day I had to take the top out of several pine trees. Southern pine,they hold a really good hinge without breaking. 100'my bucket is 72' which means I was popping around 30' .these trees are about 18in at tha base,up there bout 9". When I put in my notch (my normal) tree started over(I had to catch the tops)the trees being so limber followed the top,when the hinge finally broke, here comes the stem back toward me. I've popped hundreds of tops but really having trouble dodging the stem. Stems will actually pull 10' away before hinge breaks. I've tried cutting tighter notches to make the hinge break quicker. Not really making any difference. I've gotseveral more to do but I'm getting tired of trying to dodge 70' up. Anybody got any ideas if I'm doing it wrong or what. Never had this prob with stiffer trees.thanks Terry

The jump cut helps keep the spar from being pushed to the side because the top comes off before it leans enough to exert a lot of side pressure. I have never needed to catch the top when making jump cuts. When bucking a standing stem it lets the logs hit without busting up.

 

[popwarlick]

The way we Do it

A lot of times we have houses,swimming pools,etc where we can't pop the top without catching it. I put a block right below where I'm going to make my cut.Cut my face then thru the block with my rope and tie to the top. Cut the top out,use a portawrap to ease the top to where i can work it up or put a tag line in it and get it to a spot on the ground away from what I needed to miss

 

[bustedup]

Might be a thought to ask some of the fallers how they'd top out.


Woodchuck I ain't gonna get into it with ya .......but are you fixated by jumping wood???

 

[popwarlick]

Called on a friend

Called up one of my best friends(Mel Lentz)and he said either the tagline or the pole saw would be what he would use.He said being that close to one with everything being as it is ,lot safer to get away from it to do your work. The more I think of it I think that's the way to go(either way)but I really appreciate Ya'lls help. Thanks

 

[woodchuck357]

Even using the tag line the top getting caught by the spar will still cause

a lot of movement. Tag line and polesaw together sounds to me like the way to go.

SYP is a very strong wood, not sure catching that much weight with that small of a spar would work with other pines.