How Too Start Your Chainsaw

[firedoctor]

Speaking of tuning,

My 394XPW has been starting pretty reliably needing about 3 pulls with the choke out, then 2 pulls with the choke in. The problem has been that the chain spins with the saw at high idle. The saw also keeps running for a second or so after the switch gets turned off.

Is any or all of this normal, or should I make adjustments. What is the right way to tune the carb and the idle.

Sorry if I should have started a new thread....

-Craig

 

[Oregon_Rob]

Yesterday, I was searching for something else and came across the, “How to start a saw” thread. Read all the posts and went to clearing brush, you know start, cut, shut down and drag to the burn pile, repeat, (lots of starts). My normal method of starting my saw, 372, was to just drop start it, quick and as I thought efficient. Started playing around with some other methods described and trying the compression release. I do have to say, that Chainsawworld is correct, using the compression release will save ware and tare on the saw. My new method is to put the chain break on, engage the compression release, left hand on the top handle and the rear handle resting on my left, upper leg, bar tip resting on a log away from me and use my right hand to pull the rope.
Is it important that the chain break be released real quick?

 

[Tzed250]

Dropstart?

What in the world is the advantage to drop starting a saw?

 

[John in MA]

It's faster than ground starting and it looks cooler. Personally, I've never found a real reason for doing it with saws larger than little clmbing types.

 

[Oregon_Rob]

I found it was the easiest way to start my old Jonsered saw. When I bought that saw, I didn’t know anything about saws, and just kind of figured out how to pull the piston up to TDC and the drop to give me that mechanical advantage. In reality, it is very similar to kick starting a high compression dirt bike, you learn to use gravity. Except a bit more on the dangerous side of things than a bike. That old Jonsered didn’t even have a chain break.

 

[Bruce Selfridge]

I fing drop starting is easyer on the old back.

 

[tony marks]

amen to what chainsaw world said.
good mix and adjusted rite . just a couple o tugs and shes ready. anything i dont like its a 2 cycle engine that wont crank easy.i dont need to break a sweat before i even get started.
if one does that way much ,and i cant adjust it out. she dont stay in my arsenal

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i follow the Stihl tapes with Eric Sorenson for all but small saws. Only drop start 'baby' climbing saws that u really couldn't hold in between legs well. Sometimes i drop start an 044/440 in the tree; but only when my legs are behind a log, or i'm laying on my belly with ankles crossed on top of log etc.

Med. and large saws i go for between the legs, handle resting on above my left knee (not on any bone), brake on, decompress (if there is one), choke or warm start throttle trigger position. i never get a nut cracker, because i tilt the saw (from about 8:00 to 2:00), so that any kick or anything, goes into the meaty underside of my right thigh, pulling with R. hand at about the same angle. The recoil lines up real ncie for maximum pull at that angle.

On a Stihl we say we 'blip' (their term in manuals) the trigger to knock the throttle done from full open. If it is in cold start (choke) position and it isn't bear cold out, after it pops once, we assume the cylinder is warm, and take it off choke, but still on full open throttle-warm start position. Further choking tends to flood the beast; except on colder morns.

If that doesn't work, same procedure on ground, foot through handle, knee on top, for fuller pulling stroke. Might have someone else pull as i hold it for more oomph for bigger/ problem saws. Though i don't make 'em pull it when using previous method 'cause they tend to look funny!

 

[wak110]

Hi guys, I"m fairly new to this site but in the short time I've been browsing I picked up a wealth of information (not to mention the entertainment) from your collective knowlege.
Is there any website that shows the different saw starting "safe" methods, preferably with pics or illustrations. I've been climbing part-time for about thirty years doing trimming and removals for friends, family or to help out a pro friend on a "side job". Everything I've learned has either been passed down or I learned it the hard way so I wouldn't mind picking up some tips to make my life easier and safer.
Thanks, Bill

 

[stihltech]

drop start

I drop start everything up to an 066 and up to a 20 inch bar. After that, on the ground, foot through rear handle, hold down on top handle, and pull quickly. Compression releases do work quite nice on a larger saw.

 

[Kevin]

 

[oakman]

i never shut my saws off...........................................................

 

[chainsawworld]

Soren Eriksson worked for stihl years ago. he moved over to husky and has since retired. mr. personality, tim ard has taken over for husky. funny, Soren worked hard all his life to be where he is at and is a real nice guy. tim ard had everything handed to him and he has no time to the working guy. Marty

 

[chainsawworld]

this thread is growing fast.
do not be surprised if everyone has to go though some sort of training class. insurance companies just may make it mandatory because so many people are getting hurt not knowing what they are doing and costing them lots of money(this is real close to happening). i hate to see my rates go up because some idiot has no clue or has been "lucky so far".
things are getting better with the way insurance companies classify accidents now such as,accident with a chainsaw,accident in the woods,logging accident, etc. all chainsaw accidents were put in one big barrel and everyone paid the price.
instructors today can tell what went wrong and why. i have looked into some real nasties that could have been avoided.
marty

 

[oakman]

some people will hurt themselves with a spaghetti noodle.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Well, kinda hard to put saw on the ground, or between knees (not drop start) on 020 in tree........

And kinda hard to imagine a saw trapped with body weight on top of it, foot in handle, chain brake on, another man pulling back to the rear; and someone getting hurt. In fact with one man pulling recoil in that position, they would have less weight, mind concentration on anchoring saw and not be able to pull directly away from buisness end of saw.

Well, might get hurt from letting recoil snap back in my face while i'm holding saw down; but seing as i'm the one in control of the 088 at the time............. don't think he'll do that; at least not twice!

 

[WRW]

Marty,
Any statistics to show that drop starting causes any substantial number of chainsaw accidents? I did a short search and could not find injuries by cause, other than kickback, but by location. Leg and foot injuries were mostly attributed to trimming miscalculations.

 

[chainsawworld]

i will check with some other instructors and sponsers to find some numbers. some of the things we were told is people would start the saw by holding the saw and throttle with their right hand and pull the starter handle with their left. when what little controll was lost in the left hand, the saw would come down and hit their legs and feet. another was holding the saw by the loop with the left hand and pulling the starter handle with the right. when the saw would start, controll again was lost and cuts to the legs or, the running saw would make contact with other objects and cuts could be any place.
not to get off the topic but, parts of the instruction i give deal with the use of the chain brake. i had one guy trip and fall in the snow. he panicked and gave the saw full throttle as he fell. his face landed on the chain and injury was minor because the brake was set as he moved. starting,moving and working the brake is set. if you are not sure of your next move, set the brake. marty

 

[CJ-7]

I am sure you all have noticed the same thing: If you just hold to top handle and pull the rope when the piston is on the compression stroke, you pull the bar towards your face. I notice my 019 is much more prone to this than my little Poulin Pro of the same displacement. Needless to say you don't do that method more than once. But if you drop start it, the reaction of the saw is not to tip the bar up, even on the compression stroke. Any of you physics minded guys know why? Just curious.

I generally use the handle between the knees method, but then I only have sub 35cc saws at this time. How do you start it in the tree when you are straddling a trunk or big limb without violating the stated safety rules?

 

[Oregon_Rob]

CJ-7

Who ever thought this simple subject could generate so much discussion?
For starting the small saw in a tree, couldn’t you, most of the time, simply hold the bottom of the saw against a branch or trunk by putting downward force on the loop and pull the rope with the other hand?