How Would You Cut this Dangerous Hung-Up Tree?

[Hermio]

Just bought some Husqvarna safety gloves. They are rated category 0, which is 16m/s or 36 mph. My MS 500i has a no-load chain speed of 62 mph or 28 m/s, so a category 3 would be recommended. But my local stores do not carry category 3. On the other hand, I expect my chain brake would get the speed below 16 m/s by the time it could hit my hand; probably down to zero. Then it would just be a matter of cut protection. I plan to use them in the woods when removing the smaller branches from trees or treetops, as that is when kickback is most likely. When I drag them out into my fields for bucking, my footing is better and there is almost no chance of a rotational kickback, so I might not use them then. I could still get a linear kickback, but I don't think the gloves would help with that. I have had that happen a few times, but it never even caused the saw to hit me. The chain brake was triggered by that kind of kickback also.

 

[moxiemaul]

There is no certainty either way- but I'm sure not sticking the bar at substantial throttle into somewhere I can't see regardless of which side. That old steel fencepost hiding in the brush will jack up your chain either way...

I've gotten my share of bits and pieces sucked into the sprocket and/or derailing the chain too.

 

[Paul Bunions]

It has happened to me, but I have to deal with trip hazards.

 

[BeatCJ]

I said 16 to get you farther from the stump, if the log decides to roll, it will happen more slowly. 8 feet makes sense, too. I wouldn't burn it to get rid of it, I would be cutting firewood, but that's my bias. But I would also be looking at merchantable logs.

And while I do understand that a chainsaw isn't the best tool for cutting weedy brush, I sure wouldn't be changing tools.

Sounds like you're on top of it at this point.

 

[benz66]

A couple months ago I had an elm leaning like that, not quite as long and no support branch beneath- about 2' diameter at the base, it was all in the air. I put a heavy ratchet strap (2" wide) around the trunk above where I was cutting, tight in case the trunk split, and another around the trunk, over to a nearby tree and back, also pulled tight. The theory being the straps would restrain a jump in my direction while I got out of there. The saw I brought was too short for a good face cut on the underside but it was ok-ish. I didn't need much back cut.. at least the tree went down straight.

But I'd first put a line over it far out along the trunk and give it a good hard tug, see if it might be inclined to go over. I do that with most any stuff hung up in the canopy before cutting. Probably easier said than done when the stuff is high up. But if you can get a throw ball over and pull a 1/2" line at least you can see how hard its stuck before getting intimate with the thing.

Ilke this answer. I don't have those big straps, but I could use chains. Do clear your paths. This is a great strategy for this tree. On logs more vertical. I try to cut a notch 1/3 the diameter, on the underside, (compression) as high up as practical, then about 2-3' up from the ground, so you can run away; notch the topside (Tensiion) 1/3 through. Then alternately cut the top high up, and the bottom of the lower cut a litte at a time until it gives. This is so the log in the middle acts as a hinge, to control the tree as it comes down. The log in the middle guides the bulk of the tree to prevent, or slow any twisting or kicking sideways. (in theory). This is for junk trees where you are not trying to save saw or veneer logs. In that case, use moxiemaul's method.

2 1/2 years ago, I had half a dozen big, tall leaners after a storm. One was on the garage, in addition. The worst one was hung in a huge white pine at the center back of the garage. It would have smashed the peak of the garage if it came straight down. There was a small maple near the white pine at an angle that I thought could guide the top of the leaner away from the garage, if I cut the leaner just right. The maple was pushed partly over by a big tree that just missed the garage to he left. I used the hinge cut as described, and when I thought it was about to go, we got scared. I chained the log to the tractor and pulled. Cut a little, pull, cut a little, pull. Neither of us wanted to be around when the leaner let go. I finally got the hinge to work, and it came down safely, and the top slid down the maple, just as I had planned. The other leaners were simple. I like to do that hinge cut when they are 45º or more vertical. The butt of the log kicking sideways can get you, and even going straight out uncontrolled can be dangerous. Every leaner is a hazard.

To clarify, this top of this leaner was to the right of the big pine, and a normal cut would have crashed the leaner right on the peak of the already battered roof. By popping out the hinge, the top backed away from the white pine, so it could ride the maple down to the left. The top cut of the hinge was not as high as I would have liked it, but I made it work. Paul Bunyan could have cut it higher, and made a better hinge.. I've had smaller trees where I had to cut a second hinge to get the top to drop, when the first hinge didn't bring it down.

 

[Hermio]

Ilke this answer. I don't have those big straps, but I could use chains. Do clear your paths. This is a great strategy for this tree. On logs more vertical. I try to cut a notch 1/3 the diameter, on the underside, (compression) as high up as practical, then about 2-3' up from the ground, so you can run away; notch the topside (Tensiion) 1/3 through. Then alternately cut the top high up, and the bottom of the lower cut a litte at a time until it gives. This is so the log in the middle acts as a hinge, to control the tree as it comes down. The log in the middle guides the bulk of the tree to prevent, or slow any twisting or kicking sideways. (in theory). This is for junk trees where you are not trying to save saw or veneer logs. In that case, use moxiemaul's method.

2 1/2 years ago, I had half a dozen big, tall leaners after a storm. One was on the garage, in addition. The worst one was hung in a huge white pine at the center back of the garage. It would have smashed the peak of the garage if it came straight down. There was a small maple near the white pine at an angle that I thought could guide the top of the leaner away from the garage, if I cut the leaner just right. The maple was pushed partly over by a big tree that just missed the garage to he left. I used the hinge cut as described, and when I thought it was about to go, we got scared. I chained the log to the tractor and pulled. Cut a little, pull, cut a little, pull. Neither of us wanted to be around when the leaner let go. I finally got the hinge to work, and it came down safely, and the top slid down the maple, just as I had planned. The other leaners were simple. I like to do that hinge cut when they are 45º or more vertical. The butt of the log kicking sideways can get you, and even going straight out uncontrolled can be dangerous. Every leaner is a hazard.

To clarify, this top of this leaner was to the right of the big pine, and a normal cut would have crashed the leaner right on the peak of the already battered roof. By popping out the hinge, the top backed away from the white pine, so it could ride the maple down to the left. The top cut of the hinge was not as high as I would have liked it, but I made it work. Paul Bunyan could have cut it higher, and made a better hinge.. I've had smaller trees where I had to cut a second hinge to get the top to drop, when the first hinge didn't bring it down.

I wish I could visualize what you are describing.