Husky 353-changing pitch to 3/8"

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Littman

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I've been lurking on this site for about a year now and found some great tips and information. I am a home owner with a small piece of land. I have been the same smaller Homelite 16" chain saw since about 1976 without any major problems. I usually cut about 10 cords of wood a year and I fall 4-5 < 12 inch in diameter hardwood trees. Last year I wanted to get a little bigger saw and thats when I started browsing this website. I finally settled on a Husqvarna 353 with a 18" bar. I have to tell you it was an eye opening experience. This saw is a lot better and it has a chain brake.

I was wondering if it is possible to change the pitch from 0.325 to 3/8"? I would assume that I would just need to change the bar, sprocket and chain. I am considering this because there seems to be a larger chain/bar selection for 3/8".

My second question is "would I want to do this?" Is the 353 large enough to pull a 3/8" chain with a 18" bar? Thanks for your input. AND Hej till alla Skandinaver.
 
make sure the bar and chain match. it shud be happy enough with your intended setup.
 
In hardwoods I'd stick with .325". No real benefit to 3/8", and there are just as many replaceable-tip bars that can be had in .325" as 3/8" - just swap tips. For non-replaceable tip bars, Oregon ProLite laminated bars are a good choice on this saw, and are available in .325"

On that saw, Oregon Super 20 (20/21/22LP, depending on gauge) is probably a chain to look at in .325". I found that it cuts very fast, probably faster than Stihl RS. Hand sharpening is a breeze, too, which makes touch-ups more frequent and more pleasant.
 
IMO i see no reason to convert 353 to 3/8 since it works best with .325 and no, i wouldnt run 18" bar with 3/8 on 353....

I run mine with 13" bar, .325 chain and 8 tooth sprocket and it works nicely (yadda yadda, no whine 'bout tiny bar please :biggrinbounce2: )
 
In hardwoods I'd stick with .325". No real benefit to 3/8", and there are just as many replaceable-tip bars that can be had in .325" as 3/8" - just swap tips. For non-replaceable tip bars, Oregon ProLite laminated bars are a good choice on this saw, and are available in .325"

On that saw, Oregon Super 20 (20/21/22LP, depending on gauge) is probably a chain to look at in .325". I found that it cuts very fast, probably faster than Stihl RS. Hand sharpening is a breeze, too, which makes touch-ups more frequent and more pleasant.

I agree on staying with .325 (and 7-pin), but the test results I have collected from some members here indicates the it is even faster with a 95VP (.325 NK) setup - it is standard here, and I've sticked to that so far, and have no complaints (birch is my primary wood) - but admittedly haven't tried anything else myself.

A shorter bar would no doubt help also, a 15" is perfect......;)
 
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computeruser-thanks for the bar tips

blis- this is America...everything gotta be bigger here
:greenchainsaw: :greenchainsaw:
 
I'd stick with what you have also. Not an appreciable difference. Just make sure the chain is sharp and it should work like a charm.
 
I was wondering if it is possible to change the pitch from 0.325 to 3/8"? I would assume that I would just need to change the bar, sprocket and chain. I am considering this because there seems to be a larger chain/bar selection for 3/8".

.

I believe it's a little more than just a sprocket change, can't remember what exactly, maybe the oil pump. At any rate, DDM got a 353 from Baileys not too long ago and Baileys would not send it out in 3/8". They would not blink at just a sprocket/bar swap so it's a little more involved.
 
I believe it's a little more than just a sprocket change, can't remember what exactly, maybe the oil pump. At any rate, DDM got a 353 from Baileys not too long ago and Baileys would not send it out in 3/8". They would not blink at just a sprocket/bar swap so it's a little more involved.
I suspect the real reason is that the saw just won't perform well with the larger sprocket = less effective torque.

Husky doesn't approve of a 3/8" on the 353.......;)
 
Sure, but longer bars allways result in less performance - get a larger saw if you really need an 18".........:chainsawguy:

I gotta agree with that. My experience with a 361 and 20" bar left me disappointed. Not enough power to pull through tough wood like I want. I've got so used to the 441 in the last few months that anything less feels like a turd. That being said, I feel a 70cc saw is the biggest I'd want for a 20" bar. My 660 is only a match with that bar length and adds too much weight. It's great for the big trees though. I'm a firewood guy, so cutting fast with little weight rules.
 
If you are going with 3/8ths Bayley's has still some solid sprocket tip bars on special in 15'' and 18'' but they are .058 gauge.I have seen 3/8ths on a 2152 same saw, with a 16'' bar it did okay but that is in softwood.
 
I gotta agree with that. My experience with a 361 and 20" bar left me disappointed. Not enough power to pull through tough wood like I want. I've got so used to the 441 in the last few months that anything less feels like a turd. That being said, I feel a 70cc saw is the biggest I'd want for a 20" bar. My 660 is only a match with that bar length and adds too much weight. It's great for the big trees though. I'm a firewood guy, so cutting fast with little weight rules.


I run my Euro MS361 with a 15" mostly, at a bit over 14k rpms WOT without load, and 18" for pure felling - 8 and 7 pin 3/8" respectively - I just love to limb with the 15"/ 8-pin - really fast job, with a really nimble saw (I am not smallish).......:clap: :clap:

The Husky 353 is about to be a "loaner" saw - as I don't use it much anymore, except for carving bird-cages etc......
 
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Is it feasible or practical to convert a 346xp over to 3/8lp chain. Be thinking about getting one and have other saws that run 3/8lp chain. Would be nice to be able to use the chains I already have.
 
Is it feasible or practical to convert a 346xp over to 3/8lp chain. Be thinking about getting one and have other saws that run 3/8lp chain. Would be nice to be able to use the chains I already have.


Just forget it, the 346 (provided it is stock) is probably best off with the .325 NK set-up (if modded, probably Stihl .325 RS) - 3/8 lo-pro will not be able to take advantage of its power and rpms.
 
It takes a new bar, rim and sprocket and a few minutes of your time.


I pulled the plug, fed some rope in the hole, drive the rim off with a chisel and hammer and put it all back the way it came off.

$51 dollars worth of parts from Bailey's.
 
IMO i see no reason to convert 353 to 3/8 since it works best with .325 and no, i wouldnt run 18" bar with 3/8 on 353....

I run mine with 13" bar, .325 chain and 8 tooth sprocket and it works nicely (yadda yadda, no whine 'bout tiny bar please :biggrinbounce2: )

I agree with blis and Troll. Stay with 0.325 on the 353. 3/8 is for 60cc and more, that's what I think. Try changing that 18" to a 15" and you will see some serious chips fly ;) It will save you maney too if you stay with 0.325 which is a good thing no?
 
I agree with blis and Troll. Stay with 0.325 on the 353. 3/8 is for 60cc and more, that's what I think. Try changing that 18" to a 15" and you will see some serious chips fly ;) It will save you maney too if you stay with 0.325 which is a good thing no?

The Dolmar 5100S is a pretty special 50cc saw - it thinks it is close to a 60cc saw, and really likes a 3/8" chain - cuts like a champ with it......:blob2: :blob2:

It has a lot more power and rpms than the ol' 353 though.....:biggrinbounce2:
 
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