Hi i am wondering if it is normal . when i cross cut i make big chip string like if i tey to mill with the same saw and the same chain and the same sharpness i dont get the same chip i get big dust or flake like thinker then sawdust but not chip or string like things is it normal ?
Husky 55 1998
- Thread starter Mmeloche
- Start date
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Yes
First thing you need to do is establish why the piston cooked... If you haven't taken it apart yet do a pressure/ vac test on it first (I'd measure squish for reference too).
Once cylinder is cleaned up & piston & rings replaced pressure/ vac test is a must!
I'd also take the opportunity to give the carb a going over (& check how many turns out L & H were at for reference).
Once all that checks out set carb to factory (probably 1.5 turns out on both) & tune slightly rich for initial running/ milling. Watch a bunch of videos to get an idea, Madsen's has some good directions, & Tom @Vintage Engine Repairs did a good tutorial a while back. If you're not confident get yourself tach, it'll pay for itself the first time you use it.
After the saws back up & running & you've run a few tanks through it look at your milling setup... Sharpening is critical, so do some reading up on angles, hook, rakers, etc for milling. If it's an option, it will take a load off the saw converting it to .325 or 3/8 LoPro &/or grinding the chain to a Granberg style chain.
Good luck, keep us posted
Once cylinder is cleaned up & piston & rings replaced pressure/ vac test is a must!
I'd also take the opportunity to give the carb a going over (& check how many turns out L & H were at for reference).
Once all that checks out set carb to factory (probably 1.5 turns out on both) & tune slightly rich for initial running/ milling. Watch a bunch of videos to get an idea, Madsen's has some good directions, & Tom @Vintage Engine Repairs did a good tutorial a while back. If you're not confident get yourself tach, it'll pay for itself the first time you use it.
After the saws back up & running & you've run a few tanks through it look at your milling setup... Sharpening is critical, so do some reading up on angles, hook, rakers, etc for milling. If it's an option, it will take a load off the saw converting it to .325 or 3/8 LoPro &/or grinding the chain to a Granberg style chain.
Good luck, keep us posted
"X-cutting" vs "noodling" (ripping with the grain) vs "milling" (ripping against the grain) all produce different chips, load the saw differently & (ideally) require a different grind on the chain
Thanks for the shoutout!First thing you need to do is establish why the piston cooked... If you haven't taken it apart yet do a pressure/ vac test on it first (I'd measure squish for reference too).
Once cylinder is cleaned up & piston & rings replaced pressure/ vac test is a must!
I'd also take the opportunity to give the carb a going over (& check how many turns out L & H were at for reference).
Once all that checks out set carb to factory (probably 1.5 turns out on both) & tune slightly rich for initial running/ milling. Watch a bunch of videos to get an idea, Madsen's has some good directions, & Tom @Vintage Engine Repairs did a good tutorial a while back. If you're not confident get yourself tach, it'll pay for itself the first time you use it.
After the saws back up & running & you've run a few tanks through it look at your milling setup... Sharpening is critical, so do some reading up on angles, hook, rakers, etc for milling. If it's an option, it will take a load off the saw converting it to .325 or 3/8 LoPro &/or grinding the chain to a Granberg style chain.
Good luck, keep us posted
First thing you need to do is establish why the piston cooked... If you haven't taken it apart yet do a pressure/ vac test on it first (I'd measure squish for reference too).
Once cylinder is cleaned up & piston & rings replaced pressure/ vac test is a must!
I'd also take the opportunity to give the carb a going over (& check how many turns out L & H were at for reference).
Once all that checks out set carb to factory (probably 1.5 turns out on both) & tune slightly rich for initial running/ milling. Watch a bunch of videos to get an idea, Madsen's has some good directions, & Tom @Vintage Engine Repairs did a good tutorial a while back. If you're not confident get yourself tach, it'll pay for itself the first time you use it.
After the saws back up & running & you've run a few tanks through it look at your milling setup... Sharpening is critical, so do some reading up on angles, hook, rakers, etc for milling. If it's an option, it will take a load off the saw converting it to .325 or 3/8 LoPro &/or grinding the chain to a Granberg style chain.
Good luck, keep us posted
First thing you need to do is establish why the piston cooked... If you haven't taken it apart yet do a pressure/ vac test on it first (I'd measure squish for reference too).
Once cylinder is cleaned up & piston & rings replaced pressure/ vac test is a must!
I'd also take the opportunity to give the carb a going over (& check how many turns out L & H were at for reference).
Once all that checks out set carb to factory (probably 1.5 turns out on both) & tune slightly rich for initial running/ milling. Watch a bunch of videos to get an idea, Madsen's has some good directions, & Tom @Vintage Engine Repairs did a good tutorial a while back. If you're not confident get yourself tach, it'll pay for itself the first time you use it.
After the saws back up & running & you've run a few tanks through it look at your milling setup... Sharpening is critical, so do some reading up on angles, hook, rakers, etc for milling. If it's an option, it will take a load off the saw converting it to .325 or 3/8 LoPro &/or grinding the chain to a Granberg style chain.
Good luck, keep us posted
The carb was lean as **** i replaced everything and now it is 2 turn out on the h and 1.5 out on low seem to run nice now . a grenburg chain is to grind half the link on 1 set of theeth then 2 full then 2 half 2 full right
That's not quite how semi skip works as you would end up with 2 L cutters followed by 2 R cutters. You could make similar to what's known as "Hyper Skip" by grinding off every second pair of cutters. That will help the saw pull the chain but won't improve the finish.
Alternatively just buy yourself a loop of skip tooth & sharpen it to 10°... At least you can sharpen it back to 30° & use it for regular cutting if you choose to. It doesn't even need to be 10° right away, I bring mine back 5° at a time over multiple sharpenings
Alternatively just buy yourself a loop of skip tooth & sharpen it to 10°... At least you can sharpen it back to 30° & use it for regular cutting if you choose to. It doesn't even need to be 10° right away, I bring mine back 5° at a time over multiple sharpenings
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