Husqvarna 141 Low Emission

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Huh. Tuned to a clean idle and a little 4 stroking unloaded. Then made a couple cuts and on third it bogged so immediately stopped and shut it down. High speed was 2.5 turns out. Maybe I was too rich and saw was loading up? Sure don’t want to burn it up.

Carb is spotless. Filter isn’t new but isn’t caked with sawdust either. Exhaust port is a little oily after this last run. Plug is dark tan, which it was when I got it. 40:1 canned gas.

Am I having novice jitters and set too rich? Try again at 2.0 turns instead of 2.5 turns?
 
Try new fuel filter first. Cheap, easy and fast. Just cause it "looks clean" doesn't mean it is. Some of these I find take small carb needle adjustments like an 1/8 of a turn depending on weather conditions. Also, very possible the crank seals make be leaking, sucking in air.

I find most I tear down that far, the seals are hard as a rock and not sealing around the crank well. A crankcase pressure/vacuum test would show this.
 
Trimmed the swollen edges of the old intake gasket and installed with a bit of that white glue you fellas are so fond of. Then fired it up without a muffler.

For a little saw it takes a tug. Has 150 psi so couldn’t have been used too hard I suppose. Almost feels like timing is advanced the way it stops me cold mid pull. Like it kicks back or something.

I'm curious as to what is this white glue ?
Are you throw starting this saw ?
 
I'm curious as to what is this white glue ?
Are you throw starting this saw ?
Threebond. I was nesting the handle up in my nether regions and pull starting.

Once I put on the muffler it seems to pull normally. Could lack of muffler cause a backfire/kickback on starting? No matter I suppose. Seems to not do it again.
 
Threebond. I was nesting the handle up in my nether regions and pull starting.

Once I put on the muffler it seems to pull normally. Could lack of muffler cause a backfire/kickback on starting? No matter I suppose. Seems to not do it again.

Thank you .
That is also known as the nutcracker method .

Never heard of a lack of muffler to cause a backfire/kickback on starting .
Have seen a lack of bar and chain cause throw start kickback issues .
 
Just went through a husky 36. Pretty much the same saw. Ran fine but had an air leak show itself when sideways or in felling position. As mentioned above seals were rock hard. Ur symptoms, to me, id be checking crank seals and tank vent. They r good lil saws!
 
I had a 141 I did a complete rebuild on. New crank bearings with seals, piston w/rings, all the rubber parts and then some! Went to install the flywheel, that has the key molded into the FW!, onto crank. Seated no problem and felt like it locked into the crank. Tightened FW up with 3/8 cordless impact.

Got saw completely assembled with bar and chain, started pulling to prime and then the saw pop over but in reverse! WTF? Tried again and popped 2 times in reverse rotation. Knew I had a timing problem.

Tore recoil off then FW only to find it was off time. Closer look at key showed there was no key at all. Just an "imprint" where it should have been. No chunks or flakes of the key any where. Must have been a bad casting from Husky to begin with from new.

On the face of FW, there is a tiny dot or raised bar on the area next to where the washer and nut seat on the FW. This denotes where the position of where the key is on the taper of the FW. I used this to line up the FW onto the crank and then hand tightened the FW nut down with some recoil rope into the cylinder as a piston stop.

I can only suspect that using the impact the first time spun the FW out of time as the FW had no key to stop it from moving on the crank in the first place. Factory maybe got lucky when new or knew the casting problem and used the above method I used.

Ran perfect after that. No popping or trying to run in reverse any more.
 
Huh. Tuned to a clean idle and a little 4 stroking unloaded. Then made a couple cuts and on third it bogged so immediately stopped and shut it down. High speed was 2.5 turns out. Maybe I was too rich and saw was loading up? Sure don’t want to burn it up.

Carb is spotless. Filter isn’t new but isn’t caked with sawdust either. Exhaust port is a little oily after this last run. Plug is dark tan, which it was when I got it. 40:1 canned gas.

Am I having novice jitters and set too rich? Try again at 2.0 turns instead of 2.5 turns?

I think your saw lost the impulse signal .
 
I’ll check the impulse but I just installed the tube and can see it in place. I’ll be pulling the carb for recleaning anyhow.

Decided to get a new muffler after all so I can disassemble in the future. But what in the wide wide world of sports is this hole all about? Does a regular non-cat 141 have a muffler hole that points hot gasses at the base of the cylinder? Because…? The main discharge is a louver on the right side. Should I weld this shut or does it serve some purpose?

image.jpg
 
And I found my answer. There is a third screw on the non-cat mufflers. The screw is installed through the back shell into a hole on the cylinder. On this cat saw the boss for the third screw hole is drilled but not tapped. So I need to tap it, then drill a hole through the heat shield, then get an appropriate screw.
 
Went ahead with the Chineee muffler. Drilled a slew of holes in the baffle and poked a little extra hole in top right corner. Maybe someday I'll weld a tube in there for likely zero advantage.

Also added felling spikes. Should really lock me down when I'm leaning into some big lumber. Or just prevent more abuse to the front of the tank.

16520526267911049492056.jpg
 
Warmed up, retuned, strutted over to a 12" green ash limb in shorts, flip-flops, closed right eye (my shooting eye), squinted my left eye for safety. This little sucker punches above its weight class! I'm happy with this little $50 saw.
 
Looks like the felling dog is on upside down.....?
Small as it is I hadn't actually noticed, but... maybe? A blunt rail would serve my purpose to keep the tank off the bark. Are you "asking" to be gentle to my pride? Are you telling me its upside-down? I dont carry much ego so give it to me straight. I can take it
 
Maybe I’ll flip it when I have the bar off someday. Maybe.
 
150 psi using autozone loaner tester.

I have an auto AC test kit so I can check crankcase for leaks but I don’t suspect any. Carb screws are actually not as far out as I expected they should be, and if I had leaks I’d be needing to richen beyond “normal”.
 
Gasket surface showed no gaps. The two halves seal up well. Outlet slit is tiny. Metal could be thicker.
 
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