Husqvarna 2100 Jungle Type

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MANUALS: I don't understand your problem there unless you don't have access to a desktop or laptop with a printer. Any PDF can be easily printed out and stapled into a book, or punched out for a ring notebook.

-SN AND DATE: Sawtroll(Niko) can help you date by SN.

-PISTONS AND RINGS: I already gave you my opinion on that. There is no significant woods working advantage of a thin ring saw over a standard piston ring saw.....it's all collector hype. If you could find some thin rings cheap enough, sell the piston and rings together on eBay. Take your profit and turn back into the saw. I see standard pistons (used) still around and you can ask all these parts vendors for them too...maybe they have a slug & jug that is toast....the jug is toast because of ring failure but the piston OK. Now if you're going to restore and flip the saw, it might pay to keep the thin rings and cash in on the hype. If you're going to use the saw hard, you'll not have any significant advantage. Modify the muffler, plug the gov and hang on...it's plenty of saw for anybody's needs in NA.

-FUEL AND TANK ASSEMBLY: It's a response to me over at the pig site by eccentric (Aaron) about a substitute for the OE gas tank vent. If I type out the pig site name, AS will redact it. I think it was an Eco vent and he told me how to rig it.

-OIL PUMP: I was talking about the small O-ring that goes on the bottom of the manual oiler and it seats against the oil part of the case, inside the gas tank. The large O-ring goes on the oiler assembly toward the saw.....Part #29-70-470-02. Also a little rubber flat seal Part #50 12 886-01 (don't use RTV sealer here, if you reuse the old one, use a good silicone grease). The oil pump inner shaft seal is Part #29 65 289-07. Without pics I can only confuse you more. And those Part #'s are from an original late 70's IPL hardcopy and probably superseded with newer #'s into the 2101.

Besides the three or so different pistons they used, the 2100 through the 2101XP are identical. (I'm not a 100% sure, but I think a SEM's module out of a 2101XP would work fine on a 2100CD...don't think there would be a timing issue or rev limiting problem etc. For that matter, a SEM's module out of an 1100CD might work as well.) Well...the later saws used a spring AV toward the bottom of the front case that many said were an 'improvement'...I don't necessarily agree with that.

Kevin
 
The Cat part number I quoted was for the large outside oil pump o-ring.

If I end up with one apart again I'll try to source the two smaller o-rings at the mine I work at. The have an o ring bin that is set up by measurement. Good chance the small ones are in there.
 
Oh, I thought you were talking about the small O-ring for the bottom of the manual oiler. The larger O-ring for the oil pump assembly I was able to source @ereplacementparts.com last yr. It would be nice to find out what metric size the small O-ring is at the bottom of the manual oiler.

Kevin
 
Anyone have a good or new intake manifold plastic block? I posted in TrPost. I assume chainsawr has them, but used might be close to end of life. Any hope of any NOS, or any later H saws using this? I will call the H dealer next week, but I think there is more knowledge here. :)

I have maybe 4 tanks on the saw in this thread, got harder and harder to tune. I did another P/V and found cracked manifold. Probably cracked a long time, but I didn't seeit when built the saw.

I suppose it could be dremeled out and glued, but I can't see anything that would stick to the oil impregnated plastic and not end up through tyhe engine.
 
I've been wondering about machining an aluminum sleeve for these. Wonder if it's doable? Our 2100 parts are finite so it might be worth a shot
 
I guess plastic is a generic term. It's probably a thermoset of some sort. but I also doubt that any type of glue would work.

sleeve is an interesting concept. Aluminum probably not good because of heat transfer. But a sleeve machined out of some kind a composite and then bore out the manifold and push the sleeve in. might be able to salvage cracked manifold assuming the pulse port was OK
 
Some good ideas there. I've never researched the thermal properties of Teflon. If the fit was tight enough, just some grade of Loctite that was fuel proof would work. You can make about anything out of Teflon hunks.

Super critical to use that proper Husky green gasket for the carb instead of that Mac diamond shape gasket in the Tilly kits.

Kevin
 
Followup on 2100:
-yes the carb gasket is critical. Kit one covers the pulse port, and the space to edge is very thin to make one. I dremeled the pulse port in the plastic intake manifold to move it over a bit, and allow more paper between pulse hole and edge of gasket.
-Mine is going, just a toy. Ran maybe 10 tanks, including milling some pine logs. Love the idle sound.

-Never touched a Husky before. I learned so much from people here. I created my own notes files. Later, I did a search on AS and went through a few hundred lines of many threads, anything dealing with 2100, and gleaned anything I could for my files. A random collection of notes and pasted threads.
I finally got the file cleaned up and organized to be readable. This jungle type thread seems to have the most info on 2100, so I will attach here.
Take it with caution. Some are conflicting opinions. I am just the humble scribe and can't say which is right or wrong.

But here you go. 12 pages of notes. I also have IPL and manual files.
 

Attachments

  • Husqv 2100 General Notes.pdf
    233.4 KB
From a guy that used the 2100 professionally in the PNW, you have a lot of errors and omissions. But other than countering point-by-point, I see no reason to say much other than this is a very good primer source of info for these saws in general, albeit not all together accurate in some regards.

It would have been better for you if you had run this by someone (most likely retired) that worked primarily on large cc Huskies back in the day. You raise almost as many questions as you attempt to answer. I was a faller and when the saws would start to fail, new saws were bought, the old saws was serviced and then carried as back-up saws....then the next yr the back-ups were sold as firewood saws and the process started over again. To me they were just tools, with more always around the corner. It wasn't until 15yrs or so ago that I decided to 'collect' some saws.

There will always be interest in the 2100/2101 because it was a near perfect saw by design. But you had to be in decent timber and you had to have a portable kit of the pieces most likely to fail while working the saw hard. I always heard about shows where you'd drop your saw off after work and it would usually be fixed and ready the following day......from a small engine mechanic the co employed. I never had that option with any shows I worked for, but the rumors persisted.

Kevin
 
Pm me with errors and additions and I will gladly update and reattach the file.
I have no personal experience with them other than my own so everything was gleaned from AS posts. There are some contradictions so noted, and I am sure MANY gaps of missing info. It would be most helpful to everyone to have the file right.

Thks, kcj
 
Lots of 2100 info here thanks guys. A quick way to plug the govenor is with a hole punch using plastic paper. (Shoooozzze all my four work saws had there govenors plugged)
 
Good idea using a metal plug in the govenor who knows what this new gas will eat since it’s eating gas line already.
 

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