husqvarna 254 vs 154

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

To clarify: will the later 254/257/262 not work on the 154 flywheel?

I haven't tried it but I think a later 254/257/262 starter assembly (with the angled rope exit - 503 54 16-01) should work just as well as an earlier 254 assembly (501 86 75-03).

Further re my comment:
"154 starter cover is unique. Early 254 starter will work perfectly but is slightly wider and the longer steel ferrule in the pulley should engage better with the flywheel pawls.",
I'd forgotten that the starter changes were made during the 154's production rather than introduced with the 254, as the attached Service Bulletin explains.

 

[rupedoggy]

 

[tug]

Are you selling these?

 

[SawTroll]

What is the differences between the 254 and 154 husky, and how good of saws are they? What is an average price i can expect to pay for either in decent condition?

As far as I know, there is more difference between an early and a late 254, than there is between a 154 and an early 254. I no longer remember all the details - but "Air Injection" was introduced on the 254 at some point, and the power specs increased over time as well - from 2.7 kW to 2.9 (sometimes stated as 3.0 on late 254s). A reputable 1997 or so German dyno test showed 3.1 kW (4.2 hp).

 

[svk]

I got the 154 up and running last week. It is a joy to run and quickly has become one of my favorite saws. I can't wait to eventually rebuild the 261 builder project I acquired.

One question: Can a 257/261/262 crank be installed in a 154 case to build a 262 or are there other differences?

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

One question: Can a 257/261/262 crank be installed in a 154 case to build a 262 or are there other differences?

The 257/262 crankshaft should fit in the case but the 262 cylinder is taller (The stroke is the same as the 154/254 (34mm) but the conrod is longer) so ideally you'll also need a 262 silencer, all the 262 intake components except the carb, 262 cylinder cover, airfilter & airfilter cover.

 

[svk]

The 257/262 crankshaft should fit in the case but the 262 cylinder is taller (The stroke is the same as the 254/254 (34mm) but the conrod is longer) so ideally you'll also need a 262 silencer, all the 262 intake components except the carb, 262 cylinder cover, airfilter & airfilter cover.

Thanks. So I will stay with my original plan of building the 262 from the 261.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

Thanks. So I will stay with my original plan of building the 262 from the 261.

Indeed.The 261 was never sold in Australia but I believe the only real differences between it and a 262 are the the piston, carburetor and a pre-clogged silencer.
And the 254 is such a brilliant saw itself. It doesn't need to apologize for not being a 262....except perhaps re ant-vibe.

 

[wcorey]

Indeed.The 261 was never sold in Australia but I believe the only real differences between it and a 262 are the the piston, carburetor and a pre-clogged silencer.
And the 254 is such a brilliant saw itself. It doesn't need to apologize for not being a 262....except perhaps re ant-vibe.

Some of the 262's did use the same carb and then there's also the three shoe clutch versus two shoe...
261's all had the metal clutch cover, where only the later 262's had them.
261's also all had the newer clutch drum driven oiler...

 

[Huskybill]

The 254 at 4.2 hp you got my attention.

 

[msjanket]

Both are great saws of there era. Go with the 254, greater spares availability, better features, anit vibe, more reliable ignition, better handling, better weight distribution, better brake system...........all around better than the 154. Husqvarna always improves its models and the newer models in the same family always blow the doors off of the old.

I have a well adjusted 254xp and it cuts great. However, the pull start procedure is nasty. Pull on the cord and there's a very balky sensation coming up from the crank. Why? Why should it be so erratic when the cord is pulled? Many others have mentioned this, too. What is going on with these saws?
There's no smooth release of the pull cord, just a bunch of nasty hiccups that make starting it very unpleasant. If I can't find an answer, I'm putting it up for sale. Perhaps somebody with a big arm can do better on the pull start.
thanks

 

[Huskybill]

The plastic pulley that hold the rope might be cracked that can cause erratic starting when the rope is pulled. 1/3 rd of the pulley being cracked is a different thickness.

 

[rupedoggy]

Now don't get upset with me but I think you are pulling on it like a wimp.

 

[svk]

I have a well adjusted 254xp and it cuts great. However, the pull start procedure is nasty. Pull on the cord and there's a very balky sensation coming up from the crank. Why? Why should it be so erratic when the cord is pulled? Many others have mentioned this, too. What is going on with these saws?
There's no smooth release of the pull cord, just a bunch of nasty hiccups that make starting it very unpleasant. If I can't find an answer, I'm putting it up for sale. Perhaps somebody with a big arm can do better on the pull start.
thanks

Pop your recoil off and post a pic of the starter pawls.

 

[Huskybill]

You guys might be right I seen the wrong screw being used to hold the pulley assembly together. The PO used a Allen cap screw instead of a flathead. I been buying screws from boltdepot to stock them all.

The 350 I purchased that was suppose to be perfect needed the plastic pulley replaced. Since it had a plastic pulley I never seen before I got a used recoil starter. Some type of gear assembly.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

I have a well adjusted 254xp and it cuts great. However, the pull start procedure is nasty. Pull on the cord and there's a very balky sensation coming up from the crank. Why? Why should it be so erratic when the cord is pulled? Many others have mentioned this, too. What is going on with these saws?
There's no smooth release of the pull cord, just a bunch of nasty hiccups that make starting it very unpleasant. If I can't find an answer, I'm putting it up for sale. Perhaps somebody with a big arm can do better on the pull start.
thanks

154 and 254 are difficult to pull smoothly (high compression ratio + small pulley + light flywheel) You have to take up the the rope slack and think through the compression. Let's see the pics though.

 

[Huskybill]

The plastic pulley that hold the rope might be cracked that can cause erratic starting when the rope is pulled. 1/3 rd of the pulley being cracked is a different thickness.

My nylon rope pulley was cracked and binding as we pulled the rope. No wimp here.

On my saws that I’m working on i disassemble the recoil starter, wash it inside and out squeaky clean. Then lube the recoil spring with light grease and lube the stud with moly. Then forget about it. I don’t like fixing the same saw twice.

 

[svk]

I just re-did the recoil rope on my 154 yesterday. The knot in the pull handle came undone and since the rope was short anyhow I put in a new one.

You need to make sure the knot on the recoil pulley is very flat or it will stick on the flywheel fingers. I had to heat mine up till it started to liquefy and and smash it down. The other bonus is the knot is now fused together so it won't come undone.

 

[Huskybill]

I was just going to suggest burning the end of the knot. Lol

Right about this time the winter cutting season ends. I would inspect each saw before it goes into storage to sleep to the next cutting job. Waiting for the blow downs from hurricanes.

 

[Redgap]

The replacement allen head bolts I got with the flatter head worked great on my 154, melting and flattening the knot with my soldering gun...not so much.