Trying to start an oil thread debate again?
Husqvarna 254xp - chain goes loose - help needed
- Thread starter MartDalb
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What shape is the rim sprocket in ?The picture of the clutch drum appears to have some wear on it from something.Could just be the lighting.
MartDalb
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Yeah..I can't say why, just one of those things, went a little too quick, stupid mistake.
I have checked the screw+nut for wear, they seem totally fine, the rubber part is broken now, which broke when I took the adjuster set out.
Pictures are up, oil drive is not driven by the clutch drum on this "older model".
MartDalb
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I tested out brand new, +2 other rim sprockets, all with same issue.
Yes the drum has a little wear, but no "play" or damage to what makes the chain loose like it does.
Rim sprocket sits tightly on it.
Cool! I am not too familiar with a rim drive, only thing I run is a Poulan with a spur drive . Be safe.
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What happens when you put on the old chain?
I assume that the old one didn't do that.
I assume that the old one didn't do that.
MartDalb
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That remains to be seen, I will update once that rubber part shows up in a few days
Thanks for the input!
(edit) I guess I have to say that this chainsaw was a cheap buy, non runner. So my knowledge to its former life and use is very limited. It came without a coil, which I had, and I had to use a carb kit, replace fuel line, clutch spring etc. to make it run again. But this chain issue, I could not solve
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Yeah, if you happen to have the chain off again, snap a pic of it.
I like a good mystery, and pics are a must.
I like a good mystery, and pics are a must.
MartDalb
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I sure will.
By far the best way to get help is by providing images. And this issue is really annoying!
No point until that pesky rubber thingy shows up though. Should be a few days at most.
I will test with various bars and chains just to rule out what I can. And provide pictures along side.
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Very pesky indeed.
When you install the B&C, are you putting a block of wood under the nose of the bar, before you tighten the bar nuts?
I had a similar problem with my Husky 23 Compact, a little top handle. A logger I was talking to, mentioned that to me. Problem SOLVED
It is even in at least some of the Husky owners manuals, Who Knew???
Give it a try, might be technique, not a mechanical issue
It could be the cheapest fix that you could get
Doug
I had a similar problem with my Husky 23 Compact, a little top handle. A logger I was talking to, mentioned that to me. Problem SOLVED
It is even in at least some of the Husky owners manuals, Who Knew???
Give it a try, might be technique, not a mechanical issue
It could be the cheapest fix that you could get
Doug
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Being a brand new, as in, 10 minutes use time, chain, could this.... contribute to further seem like a loose chain problem? I wonder....
We have gone through every single thing here, and I have seen worn bars, this is not a worn out, damaged bar.
Any further feedback is welcome
Did the saw come with the bar cover plate fitted- the sheet metal stamping that would fit over the bar studs and cover the tensioner assembly prior to the bar being fitted?
If not, you could be bottoming the nuts on the stud threads to give somewhat of a friction fit to set up tension pre starting the saw, but under working conditions the bar is slipping back a touch to produce a loose chain.
This is assuming the chain is not bouncing between tight, loose an tight again?
The bar cover plate , is clearly visible over the studs in 1 of the pictures .
Are you not running a rim sprocket? Someone has been running that saw without a rim sprocket look at the wear marks from the chain lol
Never mind I see you said you tried different rims. It must of been previous owner that did that to the drum at some stage it's clearly visible but that wear is not a problem if a rim slides on easy as long as the rim isn't extensively loose.
Never mind I see you said you tried different rims. It must of been previous owner that did that to the drum at some stage it's clearly visible but that wear is not a problem if a rim slides on easy as long as the rim isn't extensively loose.
What brand chain is it? some of the Chinese chain will stretch bad when 1st put on and then continue stretching every time you do a cut or even just piss rev the saw.Being a brand new, as in, 10 minutes use time, chain, could this.... contribute to further seem like a loose chain problem? I wonder....
We have gone through every single thing here, and I have seen worn bars, this is not a worn out, damaged bar.
Any further feedback is welcome
Usually chain adjustment goes wonky if a rim sprocket is worn out or the bar sprocket is on it's way out or the clutch drum bearing is worn out self destructing or bar nuts are not done up properly. The chain adjuster is for adjusting chain tension only the bar nuts done up tight are what hold that setting providing none of the above is worn out.
I would tend to agree with Kevin & John's questioning of clutch & drum alignment or inproper bar condition , causing the chain dragging concern .However R-60 is correct that a worn sprocket will take out a new chain in short order . Also a clutch bearing that is worn will cause tension issues as well .
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Are you not running a rim sprocket? Someone has been running that saw without a rim sprocket look at the wear marks from the chain lol
Where did this pic come from?
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No it isnt- but it is in the second picture- so we were both a bit wrong on that one.
I only expanded the first photo.Still though, if the bar is thin, could still be bottoming out the stud threads giving light friction- but not enough, nuts appear tight, but bottomed out.
You have a new chain, how new? Some chains will stretch badly in the first few minutes of running, I recently had an Oregon chain stretch so much in the first five minutes it jumped the rim sprocket. They can continue to do so in the first half hour of cutting, you may have to adjust the tension several times during this period.
As for the unevenness of tension as the chain moves around the bar, this is caused by runout of your rim sprocket, your drum, or a combination of both. I find the cheap chinese rims are bad for this, even the powermate ones have it sometimes as well.
If both, sometimes you can get them to cancel each other out by changing the position of one in relation to the other, trial and error by rotating the rim one notch at a time on the drum and trying it again. A royal PITA, but sometimes it works.
The rubber part on the tensioner is there to keep the screw from vibrating its way out of the saw. An o-ring will do the same job. Some adjuster setups use a locknut to keep friction on the screw to prevent it from turning under vibration.
Once your bar is tensioned and the bar nuts are snugged down the tensioner's job is done, and it normally doesn't matter if it comes loose as the bar should be held secure by clamping force. I have had this happen and the proper chain tension remained.
Proper tension is just enough to take the slack out of the chain. When you go to tighten the bar nuts, pull up hard on the top of the chain first, and hold it there as you tighten them. Check the average slack as you move the chain around the bar. Adjust again if necessary. It should move freely with out binding.
As for the unevenness of tension as the chain moves around the bar, this is caused by runout of your rim sprocket, your drum, or a combination of both. I find the cheap chinese rims are bad for this, even the powermate ones have it sometimes as well.
If both, sometimes you can get them to cancel each other out by changing the position of one in relation to the other, trial and error by rotating the rim one notch at a time on the drum and trying it again. A royal PITA, but sometimes it works.
The rubber part on the tensioner is there to keep the screw from vibrating its way out of the saw. An o-ring will do the same job. Some adjuster setups use a locknut to keep friction on the screw to prevent it from turning under vibration.
Once your bar is tensioned and the bar nuts are snugged down the tensioner's job is done, and it normally doesn't matter if it comes loose as the bar should be held secure by clamping force. I have had this happen and the proper chain tension remained.
Proper tension is just enough to take the slack out of the chain. When you go to tighten the bar nuts, pull up hard on the top of the chain first, and hold it there as you tighten them. Check the average slack as you move the chain around the bar. Adjust again if necessary. It should move freely with out binding.
