Husqvarna 254xp - chain goes loose - help needed

[MartDalb]

From the pics shown, those rims look pretty worn. unless those pics are deceiving me. I would pop on a new one.

View attachment 1018108

One of them was the one that sat on the saw, the other is brand new.
I had the new mounted while cutting.

 

[HarleyT]

And the bottom tips of the drive links look rounded as well, which will exacerbate the problem.
A new sprocket and chain, and the issue would go away,

not the bar.

 

[HarleyT]

It is hard to make out the metal from the shadows and finger.

 

[North by Northwest]

dang, really? even if the rim sprocket sits fine on it?

Eventually it will cause chain chatter , which will eventually damage the chain drivers & bar . Its also not good for the clutch bearing run out .

 

[MartDalb]

View attachment 1018111
It is hard to make out the metal from the shadows and finger.

Ah I see, sorry.
Here are 3, one is used.

 

[North by Northwest]

Ah I see, sorry.
Here are 3, one is used.

Yeah , you can see the cupping , as Cookies also mentioned long term a new clutch drum & bearing will ensure long term satisfaction the crank bearing end play would require extensive involved testing . You should lubricate the clutch bearing at least annually also , more often in some applications .

 

[North by Northwest]

One of them was the one that sat on the saw, the other is brand new.
I had the new mounted while cutting.

Their certainly have seen better days !

 

[North by Northwest]

All good points John , no use replacing bar & chain along with clutch internals & leave a worn rim sprocket & suspect drum & bearing !

 

[HarleyT]

Yeah, much better pic. Can you do a close one of the chain?

 

[MartDalb]

Eventually it will cause chain chatter , which will eventually damage the chain drivers & bar . Its also not good for the clutch bearing run out .

I see.

I found a used one, from a Jonsered 2153/Husky 353, and a used spur sprocket from a Husky 55 (has wear, clearly sadly)
I wonder if I can fit one of those instead.
Also found a brand new bearing as suggested by @cookies

Edit.
The Jonsered 2153 drum looks in good condition, it is very slighty "wider" than the Husqvarna 254 one, I don't think it matters when fitting the clutch though.

Picture shows.

Jonsered 2153 drum, Husqvarna 55 used worn drum, Husqvarna 254xp worn drum. In that order.

 

[MartDalb]

Yeah, much better pic. Can you do a close one of the chain?

Yep sure.

First one is the new chain, Saegenspezi from Germany.

Second is a Husqvarna chain.

Hope it is visible.

 

[North by Northwest]

Yeah, much better pic. Can you do a close one of the chain?

Good pick up on the chain drivers John they certainly are rounded off , my old eyes missed that obvious flaw lol.

 

[North by Northwest]

I see.

I found a used one, from a Jonsered 2153/Husky 353, and a used spur sprocket from a Husky 55 (has wear, clearly sadly)
I wonder if I can fit one of those instead.
Also found a brand new bearing as suggested by @cookies

Edit.
The Jonsered 2153 drum looks in good condition, it is very slighty "wider" than the Husqvarna 254 one, I don't think it matters when fitting the clutch though.

Picture shows.

Jonsered 2153 drum, Husqvarna 55 used worn drum, Husqvarna 254xp worn drum. In that order.

As far as cross referencing parts , John has a wealth of knowledge in that and anything chainsaw . As for the clutch drum & components ensure to deglaze & degrease with brake clean . The needle roller bearing , ensure that needles are secure in their cage & roll smoothly also apply some assembly lube or appropriate grease prior to installation . Your in very capable hands with John & Cookies !

 

[Pioneer]

Time to try a different bar. Who knows, it may be the sprocket on the nose of the bar that's causing the grief.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Im no expert, but I'm just going to point out that the adjustment screw does not hold the bar and chain in adjustment tension, it's the clamp force of the clutch cover to the bar pad.
I often back the adjustment screw from tension once I tighten the bar nuts.
Clean the oil from the bar plates upon reassembly, tighten the chain properly , along with the bar nuts and next time the chain will bind right up on a defective bar, taking the guess work out of the equation.
Ive also had alot of used bars, and bent a few adjustment screws with a kickback.

 

[bryannewton]

Try holding up an the end of the bar when your tightening chain and the bar

 

[huskihl]

Im no expert, but I'm just going to point out that the adjustment screw does not hold the bar and chain in adjustment tension, it's the clamp force of the clutch cover to the bar pad.
I often back the adjustment screw from tension once I tighten the bar nuts.
Clean the oil from the bar plates upon reassembly, tighten the chain properly , along with the bar nuts and next time the chain will bind right up on a defective bar, taking the guess work out of the equation.
Ive also had alot of used bars, and bent a few adjustment screws with a kickback.

395’s will teach a fella to tighten bar nuts more

 

[cookies]

I have experienced worn/damaged/missing bar plates and worn clutch covers that would not apply even force on the bar. Once the drum has a hole where the sprocket rides dirt and steel shavings from the bar/chain get into the bearing causing crank wear or clutch bearing failure, the rim will also cock on it.
Sadly I believe your bar has Peroni's disease

 

[PEK]

What a wealth of knowledge, I have found this thread interesting and informative. Having a problem like this brings all sorts of issues to hand involving various parts as it did with my 346xp last week, elimination is the key and it turns out quite often it is a simple problem.

 

[HumBurner]

395’s will teach a fella to tighten bar nuts more

And 562's.....

I've wrenched the nuts down before and still had them wind out on their own. As much as I like the fixed bar nuts, they don't tighten QUITE as well as the free ones.