Husqvarna 254xp chain not moving freely, when ...

ernestro · Sep 23, 2024

left clutch bolt tightened fully...

Hi there,
bought a relatively well preserved 254xp for cheap...165 psi compression, starts after 3-4 pulls, runs great - for now. I think the piston ring was changed, they look quite new, because the machine marks on one part of the piston have dissapeared. Also a tiny slight bit of transfer on the jug. Will most probably clean the jug and replace the piston in the near future.

I bought it knowing the brake is kaput. Missing spring. So when i took the clutch cover off, two washers fell off the studs...kinda homemade looking, or at least the hole drilled out, and overall deformed. They're about 1,3mm thick.
Without them, when i tighten the clutch cover, i can't move the chain with my hand, even if i hold the brake back - fully released. Was trying to remove the brake band, to see if it's behind all of this, but have not yet managed to get on to it..

I hated the way these washer look (and fall off), so i cut out a plate of 1mm thickness..a bit less than the washers....but didn't quite do it - i could tighten the right clutch cover nut fully and the chain move freely by hand. But when i tighten the left c.c. bolt, it holds the chain tight.

.. .. but in any case...not sure i want a fix like this on the saw. Previous owner also sharpened the chain under the wrong angle and damaged - thinned out the tie strap to much for my idea of safety!...I threw that chain and bought a new one.

So until and while i'm trying to figure it out on my own, anyone have any idea what it might be?

Cheers!

KTM 350 · Sep 27, 2024

Is that the right bar and chain for that saw? Is the bar and chain getting pinched from the cover to the case ? Are the bar studs in the case all the way? Drum spins free and chain on bar ? Is the cover hitting the clutch ? Will the clutch/drum spin with cover on ? Wrong cover ? Look at the parts for the clutch and oil pump. Is all of that right ?
Sorry have more questions than answers.

ernestro · Sunday at 8:13 PM

Talk about getting distracted...
finally i can get back to this.. but i still have 3 years worth of firewood so i'm in no hurry

oh an happy new year folks! :cheers:

Tnx for the Qs:

Is that the right bar and chain for that saw?
I think i should be fine, it's a 581 64 31-72 chain and a 582 07 53-72 bar, both supposed to be narrow kerf. (not long after i bought the b&c, husqvarna released the full chisel 0.325 :chainsaw:

... but it's not NK, so i don't think it would fit this bar, would it ? ? ? )

Is the bar and chain getting pinched from the cover to the case ?
it sure does not look like it, anywhere inside the clutch cover...

Are the bar studs in the case all the way? yup.

Drum spins free and chain on bar ? yup, spins on it's own, yup brand new b&c. There is enough clearance between the brake and the drum, also.
When i fit the b&c without the clutch cover, using large washers, the chain spins freely.

Is the cover hitting the clutch ? no sign of it..

Will the clutch/drum spin with cover on ? yes, freely.

Wrong cover ? Hm... i don't know. .part number is 503 70 42. Googling it give the first hit on another forum :
"Odd clutch cover, brake on a 254" :laugh:

seems like the 254 was made with 3 different covers ...

Look at the parts for the clutch and oil pump. Is all of that right ?
The clutch is not the one with a single wire springs around the pads, it has those two 2 C shaped metal strip springs...
So i guess it's not original.

------------------
- So, the homemade metal spacer DID help a great deal, only after i cut the slot for the chain tensioner thing to look through! :dumb:

But still not perfect. I can "torque" the clutch cover nuts almost fully now, and the chain will spin freely for 97,5% of the length...but once in a pass or two will still bind a little here and there. Now if i wrench the nuts to where i'd like them to be (nice and firm, but no arm wrestling),
it binds up a bit harder, but still only here and there..

- Another thing - I removed the clutch and the drum, to change the worn sprocket anyway, but underneath i saw the drum with it's own wear marks. Now please tell me, if it is or is not yet needed to be renewed. I have a feeling it does, also i read in https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/when-to-replace-a-clutch-drum.171660/
you should replace the drum when you can't spin the chain by hand! sorry i don't see the pictures in that thread, so i'm posting my drum pics for judgement here.

The number on the drum is 5037261-01, Made in Canada. Probably not the first fit...
I'm trying to find the right one for this saw. Partslist (if i'm looking at the correct one - the 2001 version) doesn't show a nomber for the drum itself, only numbers for sprocket, bearing, plastic pump pinion, and the whole drum clutch assy 503 64 66-04, but not the drum itself .
Go figure.

Am i right reading the serial number: 01 1300402 - year 2001 13 week 402 piece ? The starter cover is the newer one (similar/same sticker as 3 series)

Help much appreciated!

johnfawn2000 · 2025-01-06T06:02:33-0500

ernestro said:
left clutch bolt tightened fully...

Hi there,
bought a relatively well preserved 254xp for cheap...165 psi compression, starts after 3-4 pulls, runs great - for now. I think the piston ring was changed, they look quite new, because the machine marks on one part of the piston have dissapeared. Also a tiny slight bit of transfer on the jug. Will most probably clean the jug and replace the piston in the near future.

I bought it knowing the brake is kaput. Missing spring. So when i took the clutch cover off, two washers fell off the studs...kinda homemade looking, or at least the hole drilled out, and overall deformed. They're about 1,3mm thick.
Without them, when i tighten the clutch cover, i can't move the chain with my hand, even if i hold the brake back - fully released. Was trying to remove the brake band, to see if it's behind all of this, but have not yet managed to get on to it..

I hated the way these washer look (and fall off), so i cut out a plate of 1mm thickness..a bit less than the washers....but didn't quite do it - i could tighten the right clutch cover nut fully and the chain move freely by hand. But when i tighten the left c.c. bolt, it holds the chain tight.

.. .. but in any case...not sure i want a fix like this on the saw. Previous owner also sharpened the chain under the wrong angle and damaged - thinned out the tie strap to much for my idea of safety!...I threw that chain and bought a new one.

So until and while i'm trying to figure it out on my own, anyone have any idea what it might be?

Cheers!

Dear ernesto, do you have a small grease gun to lubricate the hole in the center of the clutch.
Husqvarna , has this but not stihl
Stihl , is a bear to grease have to dismantle to grease that roll pin
inside on the crankshaft.
Good luck Buck

johnfawn2000 · 2025-01-06T06:12:36-0500

ernestro said:
Talk about getting distracted...
finally i can get back to this.. but i still have 3 years worth of firewood so i'm in no hurry
oh an happy new year folks!

Tnx for the Qs:

Is that the right bar and chain for that saw?
I think i should be fine, it's a 581 64 31-72 chain and a 582 07 53-72 bar, both supposed to be narrow kerf. (not long after i bought the b&c, husqvarna released the full chisel 0.325 ... but it's not NK, so i don't think it would fit this bar, would it ? ? ? )

Is the bar and chain getting pinched from the cover to the case ?
it sure does not look like it, anywhere inside the clutch cover...

Are the bar studs in the case all the way? yup.

Drum spins free and chain on bar ? yup, spins on it's own, yup brand new b&c. There is enough clearance between the brake and the drum, also.
When i fit the b&c without the clutch cover, using large washers, the chain spins freely.

Is the cover hitting the clutch ? no sign of it..

Will the clutch/drum spin with cover on ? yes, freely.

Wrong cover ? Hm... i don't know. .part number is 503 70 42. Googling it give the first hit on another forum :
"Odd clutch cover, brake on a 254" seems like the 254 was made with 3 different covers ...

Look at the parts for the clutch and oil pump. Is all of that right ?
The clutch is not the one with a single wire springs around the pads, it has those two 2 C shaped metal strip springs...
So i guess it's not original.

------------------
- So, the homemade metal spacer DID help a great deal, only after i cut the slot for the chain tensioner thing to look through!
But still not perfect. I can "torque" the clutch cover nuts almost fully now, and the chain will spin freely for 97,5% of the length...but once in a pass or two will still bind a little here and there. Now if i wrench the nuts to where i'd like them to be (nice and firm, but no arm wrestling),
it binds up a bit harder, but still only here and there..

- Another thing - I removed the clutch and the drum, to change the worn sprocket anyway, but underneath i saw the drum with it's own wear marks. Now please tell me, if it is or is not yet needed to be renewed. I have a feeling it does, also i read in https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/when-to-replace-a-clutch-drum.171660/
you should replace the drum when you can't spin the chain by hand! sorry i don't see the pictures in that thread, so i'm posting my drum pics for judgement here.

The number on the drum is 5037261-01, Made in Canada. Probably not the first fit...
I'm trying to find the right one for this saw. Partslist (if i'm looking at the correct one - the 2001 version) doesn't show a nomber for the drum itself, only numbers for sprocket, bearing, plastic pump pinion, and the whole drum clutch assy 503 64 66-04, but not the drum itself .
Go figure.

Am i right reading the serial number: 01 1300402 - year 2001 13 week 402 piece ? The starter cover is the newer one (similar/same sticker as 3 series)

Help much appreciated!

Dear Earnesto , I forgot something, do you have any old sawz- all blades . Tape the blade end with electrical tape and use the tit , or teat on the back of the blade to clean out. The teat or tit too thick take to buffing wheel on buff it off till it will fit in the bar groove and keep your groove clean. I hope this helps earnesto

Thanks Buck.

HiOctane · 2025-01-06T08:59:39-0500

Already saw this problem. If you look closely with the brake cover installed,the original side metal plate is leaning strongly against the chain drive links and stopping the chain from turning . I dont remember what i did to correct that tho.It happens when you use a narrow Oregon Prolite blade type. I think it is caused by deformation of the plastic brake cover. Try filing the plastic cover at height where the chain is running facing the cover to reduce pressure towards the chain. Did you notice if the aluminum plate where the studs goes tru cover in worn out.