husqvarna 266 SE won't fire

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One more thing

I've been looking around for an ignition module and many of the used ones say "tested and works good" how did they test it? Can you ohm the thing or test voltage somehow because if there is a way to bench test the module before I pay 135$ for one I would appreciate it. If you grabbed my 266 off the floor and check the ignition system by pulling it over a few times you would think it had a good module because it has spark, but apparently not enough? Thanks guys I'm glad there are guys out there willing to take the time to spread the knowledge.
 
husky 266--now the oiler

anyone still watching this old thread?
emmpee: did you get your saw fixed?
I got a new ring, never installed it.
used the saw hard on a few big cottonwoods-maybe 40 or 50 tanks.
will install that ring someday!

new issue: oil pump is weak and getting weaker. set to max, only pumping maybe 1/4 tank per tank of fuel. it isn't burning the chain and bar yet, but not nearly as much oil as I am accustomed to.

is the pump a weak part of this saw? will a 'good used' pump be just as weak? I like the way Husky put the adjuster behind the clutch where you can't get a screwdriver on it. do these pumps have checkvalves in them or do they just sort of pump due to the piston going back and forth?

thanks if anyone is stilll watching year-old posts!
 
Check the drive gear behind the clutch. They are usually made of plastic and wear/give out. Sometimes the worm gear and/or sometimes the coggs that engage with the clutch drum. If that is good pull the pump unit out and clean well behind it and check the pickup tube and filter. Tube may have failed or the filter may be clogged with sawdust/debris. Clean it all up and replace the o-rings, should work good. Those pumps will certainlly provide plenty of oil if all of the above items are in good order. (It does suck where they put the adjuster though!!) Also make sure your oil tank vent is working and still has the wiggle pin. Good luck.:cheers:
 
o rings

OK, i found a bad crank seal on the pump. that probably explains the bad idle, etc.

Where are the o-rings? i see in the IPL that one seals the pump body to case (for crankcase sealing).

Are there others? the wonderful Husky people didn't bother giving any names to the parts on the IPL i have, just a list of numbers (it is really surprising to me that they are still in the game with so many design flaws in this old saw, and it was a GOOD one! I hate to imagine what the home depot husqvarnas are like!)

anyway, are there little o-rings on the oil pump rotating piston thing? there are 'items' shown on the IPL, but I don't know if they are little o-rings, thrust bearing washers, or whatever.

BTW, it is all very clean and working smoothly. worm looks fine. i can move piston with my finger and if the pump is primed, I can see little pulses of oil. if i spin the worm, i see the piston stroke as expected. worm engages sprocket properly.

if I idle my Stihl saw with no clutch cover, bar or chain, I don't let it go very long before there is a lot of oil coming out the hole for the bar. when I do that with this husky, barely any oil comes out after many minutes of spinning clutch. I was actually using a suction on the port trying to get it to prime, and blowing backwards to clear the tube into tank. everything seems OK (unless there are supposed to be checkvalves in the pump). tube looked great. I am wondering if the piston for pump is worn out too much to work properly, or it has some seals or o-rings on it that are shot.

Thanks again!!!
 

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